Ok..I have the drawing done and trying to put it out here for you...but when I insert image it tells me that image is to big..and I've even cropped it and still to big..so what am I doing wrong for uploading a file to show this....????

[ATTACH=CONFIG]670[/ATTACH] ok hope this came out and if it did it was for Maddawgs who helped me out...you have to excuse the drawing but i'm no artist...but here is the heater contol that i'm gonna try out....i'm puting it all in a old large tackle box that i have which is plastic...if i was to use a steel box i would gnd that also..and this works with 220v and i see no reason it wouldn't with 120v. the SSR is a Smugle brand ac input and ac output up to 480v.

"
I think you have ordered the wrong type relay for using a potentiometer to control the heating element. On the one you ordered, you must supply anywhere from 90vac-250vac to the inputs to activate the relay, which will simply complete your circuit on the line outputs. Don't think it will do any varying of the power at all, and your element will just be drawing 100% for whatever voltage you're running through the output side of the relay, for as long as you supply the required voltage to the inputs. Essentially, it will simply be an on/off switch."

"Caveman,
Did you check out the one that I built, you can see it on my thread in the tech section. It's a sticky near the top called "" MY altarnative to a router speed control "" I used your drawing but made some small changes to suit my meter and I also added a ground to the ssvr where it mounts to the heat sink. It works great...
Thanks Captinjack"

"I am using a SSR to control my Temperature in my process but it is very different then a manual operation. The SSR is s simple switch but the difference between that and a normal relay is that the SSR can switch VERY fast. I have my process on a plc so I use a PWM (Pulse Width Modulation) command to send to the SSR ( Soild State Relay). If I want 50% It just simple has the time on and the time off on the relay equal. I'll be happy to post Engineering documents if someone wants to read more. I'm an Industrial Automation guy that does it everyday. Happy to share any of my super geek stuff.... let me know! :-)

Now for getting the results that you want for the cheapest cost you are all on the right path, not to mention it works very well. I seen it in action I think on Hillbilly Stills on a video. The end result is that you are looking for the 'sweet spot' to run your mash at. You will find once you find that for your still that you will not adjust on it much. :-)
my two bits......:-)"

"let me tell you what I have and the way I do it in short. I am not saying it is the right way but my way. Take it all in and decide if it works for you....
I have a 15 gal keg and a ss tower with reflux, milehigh....I have two different elements install 1500 watt each. turn both on to heat up and then run only one once I get around 160 degree F. Then I reflux using cold water for about 45 min. this allows the levels of vapor to seperate after we stop refluxing. When i stop refluxing I adjust my water flow to the reflux where i get a slow drip ""every 3-4 seconds"" then let it run. I collect every 200 ml to decide my cuts later after i air it out.

Thoughts... I use to reduce heat during reflux but decided it was easier to size the heating elements to the right size for the process. If didnt I would have to have a way to reduce the element providing heat to the KEG. I see videos and I see them reduce the element output to a certain place everytime so I just shoot for the output by design:-) In a 15 gal keg I perfer two 1500 w elements. I might change one to a larger one to reduce the time I wait to heat up the mash but still thinking.....I also have two different pumps (I bought from Lowes) in just coolers. One for the reflux and one for the condensor. The condensor water gets pretty hot and it made my reflux hotter which made the reflux time shorter....I leave the condensor on all the time during the run. it just recirculates so who cares and no big water bill or mess in the yard.
I'm not saying I do it right but I do it my way and I continue to improve. My stuff is ran on a plc so all I do is hit start and then wait to switch out bottle of 200ml (about every 15min) I'll have 20 gal ready by next weekend so I am sure I will do it all again and adjust! lol"

Caveman,
Yes you are correct with the climate and weather also there is some good reading about vapor temp and distilling in the Distillation methods section, it's a sticky at the top called " Why you can't control vapor temperature " it gives some insight on whats going on and how it works...

"http://www.stilldragon.com/diy-controller.html
I am not houchologist or sparky. If I were going to go electric I would have to have a kit or specific detailed instructions. Would this kit be a good way to go. I do believe that bigger is better in almost all situations. I would think 2- 5500 elements
220. One on a controller and one to unplug or turn off when it gets up to heat. Again I am not offering advice, I am asking questions. Thanks I really like this post. PLease keep it going and please be detailed. Thanks to the experts"