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#21 Posted : Monday, July 03, 2006 5:23:13 PM(UTC)
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I should have known... LOL I checked the link on eBay and they don't show one of the dimmers for sale. Also can't find the adapter for the element connection on the link you gave. Guess I'm just not holding my mouth right. I will keep looking until I find what I need. Thanks for all the help anyway.
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#22 Posted : Tuesday, July 04, 2006 1:49:09 AM(UTC)
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Okay, check the link http://www.atotlampslightbulbstore.biz/servlet/StoreFront
They are the ones who were selling the dimmers on ebay. They have an 800 number that might be worth calling to see if you can get one from them. Otherwise just keep checking for 1500W dimmers or lutron dimmers. One will turn up eventually.

I wish I could tell you the part number for the bushing but my welder ordered it for me from McJunkin Corp. If you have a welder in your area he could get it for you, and weld it in. With a 6.5 gal kettle you only need one element.

When you do get it set up let me know and post some pics. I would like to see how the brewhaus boiler looks set up.

Cheers!
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#23 Posted : Tuesday, July 04, 2006 3:40:43 AM(UTC)
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if you have a w. w. grainger in your area...they have everything you need....not great prices but fair...also you may think about an electric motor controller instead of a dimmer switch, it works great for me....
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#24 Posted : Tuesday, July 04, 2006 12:06:05 PM(UTC)
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I found a 1500 watt motor speed controller for a good price. I have been assuming that it would work but was not sure. Will have to orde one and give it a try. I appreciate the W.W. Grainger suggestion. Yes, we have one about 3 miles from me. Will stop in there Friday.

Thanks Scott!
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#25 Posted : Tuesday, July 04, 2006 12:23:00 PM(UTC)
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I will certainly do that. Mine will be chaotic compared to your neat and tidy setup. I envy you. LOL
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#26 Posted : Tuesday, July 04, 2006 2:28:48 PM(UTC)
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Okay you guys got me here. I have to say I never thought of a motor speed controller hooked up to a heating coil, but in theory why not? You HAVE to let me know how this works! Scott, can you post a photo?

Cheers!
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#27 Posted : Saturday, July 08, 2006 10:08:23 AM(UTC)
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OK ElRicko, I have started gathering materials to change from a turkey fryer burner to electric heating. I also am dumping my 5 gal. stainless milk pail that has an inadequate sealing flange to a beer keg. I am going to attempt to wire up closely simulating your rig that you posted.

I have the heating elements, ordered a 1500 Watt reostat from Levitron, ,$38,, and am looking for the bushings. I have not had much luck on them yet, but will not give up.

Next, I need advice on connecting my copper vavled reflux tower to a tri-clamp, and oh yeah I need to order the tri-clamp from Brewhaus I guess. I also have not located the tri-clamp in the website. My plan is to silver solder the copper to the stainless steel flange on the tri-clamp and the other part of the clamp to the keg. Is the reccommended method - to silver solder the joints?

By the way, even though I have not joined in this conversation until today, I have been reading intently and following the experiences of others to learn as much as I can. I do appreciate all who have contributed information to us who are still learning. My early runs were very labor intensive as I had to constantly monitor the flame to keep the temperature at the correct level. I am hoping to ease that with the transition to electric heat. I also think it will be much safer. ,I have a neighbor who was blown across his garage into the wall because of a leaking seal that ignited from the gas burner.,

Thanks again, clove
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#28 Posted : Sunday, July 09, 2006 11:34:55 AM(UTC)
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clove100:
Welcome to the conversation!

First of all, when you get your keg, don't cut the top at all! The existing hole should line up perfectly with the flange you buy. Just remove the sanke valve. You probably knew this already but I wanted to make sure.

For the tri-clamp ,order from http://www.brewhaus.com/Tri_Clamp_2in_Clamp_p/30001665.htm or http://milehidistilling.900footalien.com/connectors.htm
I believe you are correct in your assumption that you can silver solder the flange to the column, and use that to clamp to the keg, however I have never done this personally so take that into consideration. To be honest I ordered my column ,stainless steel, prebuilt so I didn't have to mess with soldering the flange or anything else, however my mentor, who built a copper column did this:
UserPostedImage attached UserPostedImage
Others have more experience with this than I do so I will defer to them.

Also don't forget to order the rubber o-ring gasket at the same time. I actually ordered 5 gaskets so I have extras when I lose/damage them ,hey they are cheap, order them at the same time you order your clamps and flange and save on shipping,.

That was a good price on the reostat. You might want to share the web site where you bought it. If you have a pipe or plumbing supply store in your town they should be able to order the bushings for you if you can't order them from McJunkin Corp online.

I'm with you on what a pain it is monitoring a flame. That's why I am a big advocate of the electric coil. So far I haven't heard of anyone yet that has been blown across anywhere using the eletric system. My mentor who uses propane had a leak that ran down the side of his column and keg then caught on fire running all the way back up his keg and column. Luckily he got it out before his garage went up. I also really like the way the coil is REALLY quiet. Just set it and forget it.

What system do you use to cool your condenser?

Good luck and let us know your progress as you go along.
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#29 Posted : Sunday, July 09, 2006 1:59:34 PM(UTC)
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Thanks Elricko, the picture helps. I was not sure whether or not to just cut the whole bung out or what. I tried to attach pictures of my tower and they were too big on the first try, I will try again. My tower is a 2' ID copper tube and I wondered if the fitting on the top of a keg would fit it ok. I see that your tower and keg are well insulated, I assume that helps a lot?

I will try to attach pics of my tower.


UserPostedImageUserPostedImage
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#30 Posted : Sunday, July 09, 2006 2:05:26 PM(UTC)
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I think I messed up the pic's, but perhaps you can see them.

I forgot the web site for the dimmers. I searched on Google and came up with one from 'Leviton' that sounded exactly like the one Elricko showed. I have not seen it yet, but it is a 1500w dimmer and others I found were like $125 or more.
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#31 Posted : Sunday, July 09, 2006 3:18:41 PM(UTC)
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Clove100

Just a suggestion, when you upload pics you might want to reduce them down to about 1.5' to 2' and they will fit better.

The column in the second set of photos is not mine but my mentors. He swears by the insulation, but I don't see where it really makes any difference. Maybe if you are someplace where it gets really cold, but I haven't found any reason to use it at all. Of course mine is stainless steel and his is copper so that might have something to do with it.

It looks like you have quite a tower there! What kind of results do you get with that? How long do you let it reflux before you begin collecting?
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#32 Posted : Monday, July 10, 2006 5:05:22 AM(UTC)
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If I have patience to watch the flame and do it right, I get 94-96% product from it. You can adjust the reflux from full reflux to no reflux with the valves. I really do like it, only thing is the flame which is hard to adjust. I am hoping for great things with the electric heat.

Chas.
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#33 Posted : Tuesday, July 11, 2006 3:51:10 PM(UTC)
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elriko,
hi, i've scored a 15.5 gallon keg and have been planning on making a boiler out of it. i was just wondering how long it takes you to run off 15 gallons????? it definitely looks like you've got a real nice set up. i know with my small 6.5 gallon boiler it sometimes takes quite awhile to get to temp and run a batch. i was just wondering what kind of time i'd be looking at with a set up like yours. thanks in advance for your time. great pics by the way.
buzzman
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#34 Posted : Wednesday, July 12, 2006 2:23:11 AM(UTC)
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buzzman:
I don't do a full 15.5 gallons at a time, But for 13/14 gallons with a double coil it takes about 45 minutes to an hour to get up to temp then unplug the top coil and control the bottom coil to set the drip at 2-4 per second for five to six hours. The nice thing about the coil is that you don't have to watch it every minute. But you will have to keep it monitored and watch how fast those collection jars fill up ;, For an estimate, I would figure probably another hour for the other gallon and a half of wash. I would suggest that you don't fill it all the way to the top as you need some head space in the keg.

The other issue is cooling. One fellow I know says he hooks one end up to a water tap, through his column and then out through the other end to a sprinkler and waters his lawn while he distills. Not a bad idea but I imagine running a sprinkler for six hours can not only be costly but could possibly flood your lawn. I use a double sink system whereby I have one igloo cooler filled with cold water that is pumped into the unit then out to a second igloo cooler that has a copper coil ,wort chiller, in it which is iced down. So the water flows through the iced wort chiller and is redeposited back into the first cooler cold. It works great but you do have to monitor the ice. I go through several bags of ice in a run. That part is a pain. I wish there were a better method. Any ideas?

Actually I am going to start a new thread on this issue and post pictures of my cooling system. So let's take this up there.
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#35 Posted : Monday, July 17, 2006 3:25:59 PM(UTC)
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If it's true that 85% or better spirit has no impurities, then is it necessary to carbon filter? Couldn't the finish smoothing be accomplished with glucose or glycerine?
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