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Offline muadib2001  
#1 Posted : Sunday, March 11, 2012 4:26:50 PM(UTC)
muadib2001


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"I have built my own pot still from a 15.5g keg, installed a 1500w 110v water heater element into the side of it, and a Ranco ETC controller unit with temperature sensor installed in a thermowell about 90 degrees angle from the heating element but at the same level. I wrapped R-13 batt insulation around the unit but had to pull it up a little so I could see if the heating element or the thermowell were leaking. The thermowell was leaking a little but I tightened it and it stopped.

I have a Tri-Clover fitting, gasket and flange to go on the top with a 1/2"" compression fitting screwed into it. I have 1/2"" copper tubing (3/8"" ID) coming out of the compression fitting, angling at 45 degrees and then dropping into the worm.

So tonight I finally got it all together and started my water run (check for leaks, etc). I started with 10 gallons of water with a temperature of 61 degrees. Ambient temperature was about 67 degrees. The keg was heating about 20 degrees every 17 minutes. Since it was a water run, I figured I needed to at least make some distilled water, so I set the controller for 212 degrees.

However, it stopped at 206 degrees. Power was still going to the heating element (I could hear it), but the unit ceased to increase in temperature for about 15 minutes (and earlier, I was clocking 20 degrees every 17 minutes).

I was getting no steam leaks (I used a small mirror to check) from the Tri-Clover fitting, compression fitting, or a (pickled) brass union at the top of the worm. But then again, I bet I wasn't making any steam.

I got some towels and placed them on the top of the keg to help retain the heat. Still didn't help.

I can generate 180 degrees to do a spirit run, but I cannot complete a water run, nor can I do a vinegar run (I assume that vinegar and water both boil at roughly the same temperature).

I feel I'm underpowered for the water run and the vinegar run, but I shouldn't need that type of heat again for basic pot stilling (roughly 180 degrees). And I don't want to pay to weld another nut to the keg, pay for another 20amp circuit to power the additional element, etc.

What are my options?

Muadib"
Offline div4gold  
#2 Posted : Monday, March 12, 2012 7:18:07 AM(UTC)
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Originally Posted by: muadib2001 Go to Quoted Post
I have built my own pot still from a 15.5g keg, installed a 1500w 110v water heater element into the side of it, and a Ranco ETC controller unit with temperature sensor installed in a thermowell about 90 degrees angle from the heating element but at the same level. I wrapped R-13 batt insulation around the unit but had to pull it up a little so I could see if the heating element or the thermowell were leaking. The thermowell was leaking a little but I tightened it and it stopped.

I have a Tri-Clover fitting, gasket and flange to go on the top with a 1/2" compression fitting screwed into it. I have 1/2" copper tubing (3/8" ID) coming out of the compression fitting, angling at 45 degrees and then dropping into the worm.

So tonight I finally got it all together and started my water run (check for leaks, etc). I started with 10 gallons of water with a temperature of 61 degrees. Ambient temperature was about 67 degrees. The keg was heating about 20 degrees every 17 minutes. Since it was a water run, I figured I needed to at least make some distilled water, so I set the controller for 212 degrees.

However, it stopped at 206 degrees. Power was still going to the heating element (I could hear it), but the unit ceased to increase in temperature for about 15 minutes (and earlier, I was clocking 20 degrees every 17 minutes).

I was getting no steam leaks (I used a small mirror to check) from the Tri-Clover fitting, compression fitting, or a (pickled) brass union at the top of the worm. But then again, I bet I wasn't making any steam.

I got some towels and placed them on the top of the keg to help retain the heat. Still didn't help.

I can generate 180 degrees to do a spirit run, but I cannot complete a water run, nor can I do a vinegar run (I assume that vinegar and water both boil at roughly the same temperature).

I feel I'm underpowered for the water run and the vinegar run, but I shouldn't need that type of heat again for basic pot stilling (roughly 180 degrees). And I don't want to pay to weld another nut to the keg, pay for another 20amp circuit to power the additional element, etc.

What are my options?

Muadib


Don't know where you are at but what is the elevation? Water boils at different temperatures. I also was wondering if you were getting anything out of your condenser.
Offline muadib2001  
#3 Posted : Monday, March 12, 2012 8:44:48 AM(UTC)
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"
Originally Posted by: div4gold Go to Quoted Post
Don't know where you are at but what is the elevation? Water boils at different temperatures. I also was wondering if you were getting anything out of your condenser.


My elevation is around 640 feet above sea level. I should boil about ~212 degrees.

Absolutely nothing was coming out of the condenser.

BTW, a couple of weeks ago, I wrapped the worm around a galvanized tomato cage as a support structure and filled the tank with water. Don't do this. Galvanic corrision set in and started moving copper from the tubing to the zinc on the tomato cage. I swapped out the galvanized cage for a powder-coated cage. Sigh..."
Offline muadib2001  
#4 Posted : Monday, March 12, 2012 8:46:38 AM(UTC)
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"
Originally Posted by: bigwheel Go to Quoted Post
You know I got to thinking on this..which is dangerous.lol. But wondering if the water heating element in question may have some built in limiting factor which do not allow drunk people to boil themselves alive in the bath tub by letting the water get too hot ect. Everybody is worried about getting sued ya know?


OK, then, why do water heaters have thermostats? And I would hate to take a 206 degree shower!"
Offline muadib2001  
#5 Posted : Monday, March 12, 2012 8:53:09 AM(UTC)
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"Additional: The keg has insulation underneath it, but the keg is resting directly on two cinder (hadite) blocks. Are the blocks sucking the heat away from the keg?

This morning I checked the temp after the unit had been turned off 81/2-9 hours. It was still at 160 degrees."
Offline muadib2001  
#6 Posted : Monday, March 12, 2012 11:53:52 AM(UTC)
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"Well, I took BigWheel's advice and got a ""box"" of wine. 5 Liters
9%. I removed about 5 gallons water from the keg. I added the wine to the remainder in the keg. I peered in to see if the heater element and thermowell were well covered with liquid. They were.

Hooked up everything and started the run. Temp came up rather quickly (as opposed to last night). Then I saw a drop fall from the money piece. Hoo-Ahh! I took the temp on up to last night's range (205-206). Still, it wasn't coming out evenly. Little bit every now and then.

I put my hand on the Lyne arm to test its temperature. Real warm near the keg, but much cooler at the top of the apex (just before it dropped down toward the worm). I got two towels and wrapped them around the Lyne arm up to the apex point.

All of a sudden, here comes the stream!

Thanks for ya'lls help.
Muadib"
Offline muadib2001  
#7 Posted : Monday, March 12, 2012 11:58:50 AM(UTC)
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"This is the Angel's portion. Cuz I ain't drinking it!

:)"
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