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I recently purchased a 1500w Hot Plate identical to the one listed on your site.
Today I tested my unit with water, and place 2 gallons of water in the pot. After 3 hours the temp at the top of the column was only at around 97 degrees Fahrenheit. I gave up in order to find a solution, and try again at a later time.
It is mentioned in the add for the Hot Plate that there is a way to bypass the thermostatic response of the hotplate. Could someone please explain to me how to do this?
Thanks
Edit: Sorry about the typo in the title. I can't edit it from here.
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 Rank: Senior Member Groups: Registered
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" Originally Posted by: roostershooter7  It is mentioned in the add for the Hot Plate that there is a way to bypass the thermostatic response of the hotplate. Could someone please explain to me how to do this? I can describe what I did. But please know that I am NOT suggesting that anyone perform this procedure, nor can I guarantee its safety, nor am I suggesting that the unit itself will be safe after this modification: UNPLUG THE UNIT BEFORE MAKING ANY MODIFICATIONS!!!! 1. I opened the unit and located the wire that runs from the thermostat to the heating element. I disconnect this wire from the terminal on the heating element. 2. I then located the wire that runs from the power cord directly to the thermostat. I disconnect this wire from the terminal on the thermostat and connected it to the open terminal on the heating element (to where the wire from step #1 was originally connected). 3. Finally, I connected the loose end of the wire still attached to the thermostat and attached it to the open terminal on the thermostat. This served two purposes: (1) it eliminated dangling wires, and (2) it kept all the original wires inside the unit in the event I ever decide to undo my mods. --JB"
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Rank: Junior Member Groups: Registered
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Has it ran well since this mod? I was looking at a wiring diagram, and basically, came to the same conclusion. Any suggestions on running it? Temp control, what to watch for, etc ....
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" Originally Posted by: roostershooter7 Has it ran well since this mod? I haven't had any problems. I use the small premium kettle boiler, so most of my runs (strip, pot, reflux, whatever) are done in six hours or less. I've never run it for more than that. I do use an MLCS 9410 controller ... which works fine during pot spirit runs but is a bit lacking for reflux spirit runs. I'm keeping my eyes peeled for a used variac at a reasonable price. They pop up every now and then."
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Rank: Junior Member Groups: Registered
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" Originally Posted by: John Barleycorn
I do use an MLCS 9410 controller ... which works fine during pot spirit runs but is a bit lacking for reflux spirit runs. I'm keeping my eyes peeled for a used variac at a reasonable price. They pop up every now and then.
How about a generic 1500 w single pole dimmer switch. Would that work? I'm keeping my eyes peeled for a reasonable controller. 1500w straight out, all the time, is a little much once you get it boiling. Am I right?"
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Rank: Junior Member Groups: Registered
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Originally Posted by: bigwheel From what little I have researched on the topic seems like the high voltage dimmer switch is not a good plan. The only time, thus far, where I managed to get too much heat going on the hotplate in the fully on mode...was because of weak water flow and inefficient use of the available cooling water. Since installing the ball valve on the condenser input and being able to make the water go where it's needed the water volume is much less critical in keeping the heat down. Works that way on my gizmo anyway. Well, this doesn't apply to me. I had my plate on 'Full On' and only had 25 minutes between my fronts and backings. I desperately need a voltage controller. The water was full on to the condenser, and my temp rose an average of 1 degree a minute.
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Rank: Junior Member Groups: Registered
Joined: 3/10/2012(UTC)
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Sorry I didn't clarify in my earlier post, but I'm using my column in pot still mode for stripping runs.
I've been around this most of my life, but just recently became aware of the temps at the top of the column with my new SS tower.
In my case, I believe that paying attention to the temperatures at the top of the column has confused me somewhat. It's a completely different animal dealing with a small home still, as opposed to, watching a 300 gallon rig that is fed by wood and uses a thump keg.
In my case, being re-educated on the modern ways of distilling has made things more difficult than the way I was taught as a kid. I was always taught to throw out the first quart no matter what, and watch the ribbon coming off of the worm. Once it started slowing down and trickling ... those were your 'backins'.
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" Originally Posted by: roostershooter7 How about a generic 1500 w single pole dimmer switch. Would that work? Sure, if you can find one with a power rating that high. I haven't found any rated for that much power. Most of them seem to be in the 300 - 600 watt range."
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Rank: Senior Member Groups: Registered
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" Originally Posted by: bigwheel The cheapest one on this site seems to be about 68 bucks then they just keep going right on up to the vicinity of 250 or so. The heavy-duty ones aren't simple dimmers. They're scr/triac based. Since they're mostly used for lighting applications I would think they'll be much more linear than the less expensive router speed controllers."
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Rank: Senior Member Groups: Registered
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" Originally Posted by: roostershooter7 Sorry I didn't clarify in my earlier post, but I'm using my column in pot still mode for stripping runs. If you're stripping, then you don't need to worry about the power. Just run it as hard and fast as she'll go -- all you're trying to do is reduce volume for a subsequent spirit run. I record my temps during stripping runs ... but only out of curiosity. Normally, my temps go from about 84 to about 93 or so. The only thing I pay any serious attention to is the abv. I shut things down once I hit about 25%. For a pot spirit run, at least for me, the power control is important. I use the power control to adjust the collection rate ... the ""slow and low"" thing. Due to my lack of experience, I had a few runs where I ran things too fast & ended up with that classic ""smearing"" throughout the run. Once I figured out how to use the power controller, I could slow things down and get something that I could actually make cuts with."
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