 Rank: Junior Member Groups: Registered
Joined: 1/7/2012(UTC)
Posts: 16
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Hey..in the same spirit as mbcapps30 post...would an expert please share an in depth explanation about operating the BH pot still as well?. Heat source will be propane.
Also do I need to insulate a pot still like the PSII?
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 Rank: Advanced Member Groups: Registered
Joined: 6/4/2010(UTC) Posts: 360   Location: Louisiana
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Originally Posted by: crimsonwine  Hey..in the same spirit as mbcapps30 post...would an expert please share an in depth explanation about operating the BH pot still as well?. Heat source will be propane.
Also do I need to insulate a pot still like the PSII? I'm no expert but you can see mine doing a stripping run here: http://www/youtube.com/bayouruler I would recommend that you insulate the pot & column with Reflectix & Shurtape. As far as operation it depends on the type if run you are doing ex. Spirit or Stripping run. Spirit run is slow and deliberate, Stripping run is hard and fast. You don't need a thermometer on a pot still. A pot still is all about feel taste and smell. Temperature is not relevant as it in on a reflux rig. I suggest that you get you a alcoholmeter and proofing parrot. You will also need to put some copper in the vapor path, I put one roll of copper mesh in mine. You need copper in the vapor path to scrub any sulfides in the ethanol. |
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Rank: Junior Member Groups: Registered
Joined: 1/7/2012(UTC)
Posts: 16
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" Originally Posted by: Bayou-Ruler I'm no expert but you can see mine doing a stripping run here: http://www/youtube.com/bayourulerI would recommend that you insulate the pot & column with Reflectix & Shurtape. As far as operation it depends on the type if run you are doing ex. Spirit or Stripping run. Spirit run is slow and deliberate, Stripping run is hard and fast. You don't need a thermometer on a pot still. A pot still is all about feel taste and smell. Temperature is not relevant as it in on a reflux rig. I suggest that you get you a alcoholmeter and proofing parrot. You will also need to put some copper in the vapor path, I put one roll of copper mesh in mine. You need copper in the vapor path to scrub any sulfides in the ethanol. Thanks for the feedback...Just a couple questions... If I am using a keg, do you still recommend insulating it? Can you elaborate on your copper ""extension"" off the condenser? What is the materials? I see a compression fitting. What size is the copper tube coming off? Is that the same parrot a guy sells on eBay? I already have a alchoholmeter and copper mesh is coming with still..."
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Rank: Advanced Member Groups: Registered
Joined: 6/4/2010(UTC) Posts: 360 Location: Louisiana
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" Originally Posted by: crimsonwine Thanks for the feedback...Just a couple questions...
If I am using a keg, do you still recommend insulating it?
Can you elaborate on your copper ""extension"" off the condenser? What is the materials? I see a compression fitting. What size is the copper tube coming off?
Is that the same parrot a guy sells on eBay?
I already have a alchoholmeter and copper mesh is coming with still... If it were me I would insulate the keg. The reason you want to isulate the boiler is to conserve energy by reducing heat loss. Thats a 1/2 x 3/8 compression union, the liebig tube is 1/2 inch and the copper tubing is 3/8 I got my parrot awhile back from a fellow who gos by the handle vetting. Where ever you get you parrot make sure the parrot tube is at least 1 inch else the alcoholmeter wont fit." |
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Rank: Junior Member Groups: Registered
Joined: 3/6/2012(UTC)
Posts: 26
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Hey, Bayou Ruler, I really dig that deal-i-o that you have under your collection tube with the proofing hygrometer built in... Do you have better pics or maybe even a plan so I can make one? Nice work.
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Rank: Advanced Member Groups: Registered
Joined: 6/4/2010(UTC) Posts: 360 Location: Louisiana
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" Originally Posted by: rasher Hey, Bayou Ruler, I really dig that deal-i-o that you have under your collection tube with the proofing hygrometer built in... Do you have better pics or maybe even a plan so I can make one? Nice work. Its called a Proofing Parrot." |
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Rank: Advanced Member Groups: Registered
Joined: 2/4/2012(UTC)
Posts: 303
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Different designs: [ATTACH]274[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]279[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]281[/ATTACH] muadib2001 attached the following image(s):  Parrot 2520005r.jpg (9kb) downloaded 0 time(s). Fig14-6r.jpg (19kb) downloaded 0 time(s). Ad803r.jpg (12kb) downloaded 0 time(s).You cannot view/download attachments. Try to login or register.
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Rank: Guest
Groups: Guests
Joined: 2/10/2002(UTC)
Posts: 5,254
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Seems like fellow forum member badbill was giving out some simple sounding plans on how to build one of these things just the other day. Maybe he will jump on here and refresh our memory banks.
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Rank: Junior Member Groups: Registered
Joined: 4/6/2012(UTC)
Posts: 133
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1" copper pipe with a cap on one end, set in a 2"x4" piece of wood. 1/4"copper tube overflow about a 1/2" from the top to catch spill over. Cut length of pipe so you can read hydrometer, about 12" long. You can add another piece of 1/4" tubing out the bottom side of the 1" pipe and use it as the entrance of the liquid and use the top 1/4" pipe to drip in a bottle. Then you got a parrot that you can constantly read proof while it's cooking. Been usig mine a long time, works good. Shouldn'tt cost but a few bucks. The best thing is you only need about 1/4 of a pint to check.
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Rank: Guest
Groups: Guests
Joined: 2/10/2002(UTC)
Posts: 5,254
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Ok...think I got it. May stick with the top entry and exit. The physics of making it enter at the bottom is over my head..lol.
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Rank: Junior Member Groups: Registered
Joined: 11/10/2012(UTC)
Posts: 85
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Originally Posted by: bigwheel Ok...think I got it. May stick with the top entry and exit. The physics of making it enter at the bottom is over my head..lol. The physics of fluid seeking it's own level is over your head? If you notice in the picture there is a compression fitting at the bottom inlet. This seals the incoming line to the parrot so that it can't leak forcing the fluid inside that is trying to seek a level with the flow coming in from uphill to flow up in the parrot until spilling out the overflow. This will not work correctly unless the parrot is slightly lower than the output of the still.
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