Rank: Newbie Groups: Registered
Joined: 5/3/2012(UTC) Posts: 4
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Hey i've been looking at designs for building a still and have found one that looks like it will work well and is easy to build. I was planning on using 2" pipe for all the walls but wasn't sure on what lengths everything should be made to and 3/8 soft copper pipe for the condensing coil. also I wasn't sure on were a thermometer should go on this design and I'm basically just looking for opinions and ways to make this design better as I have just got into this and have no experience with any of this yet, any comments are appreciated thanks. nug attached the following image(s): imgres.jpg (8kb) downloaded 4 time(s).You cannot view/download attachments. Try to login or register.
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Rank: Junior Member Groups: Registered
Joined: 4/6/2012(UTC) Posts: 133
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I think you may have a problem winding 3/8" copper tight enough to go into a 2" pipe. You could use 1/4" and just make it longer. A 3' 0r 4' collumn is OK.
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Rank: Guest
Groups: Guests
Joined: 2/10/2002(UTC) Posts: 5,254
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This is the one I'm trying to get the pokey plumber to build for me since I aint very mechanical minded. http://moonshine-still.com/. I got all the stuff for connecting it direct to the keg without having to cut into the keg. Some critics out there on the design but I got a chum who built one just like and it and said it worked well. Same chum also has kin who have phds in chemistry and injunerring etc. who gave the design a thumbs up. Its all two inch or smaller with the exception of the condenser shroud which is three inch. Good thing it comes with complete plans. The temp gauge should go on the top of the column I do believe..least thats where most of them have it. Kindly keeps us posted as the adventure unfolds.
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Rank: Newbie Groups: Registered
Joined: 5/3/2012(UTC) Posts: 4
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Thanks for the replies, I'm going out today to get some parts and it should be finished off by next weekend because I have to make it up at work and will put some pictures up of the finished product than.
The lengths of everything I was going to use are these: main column 24" Secondary column 10" Condensing cylinder 12" Collecting base 4"
And I was wondering why is it best to use a larger condensing cylinder. I was originally planing to use 3/8 soft copper pipe just to give the water a higher maximum flow rate because the 1/4 looked a bit small and I was going to use a sand bending method wile wrapping it around a 2¹/⁴" pipe to make it a neat fit inside the cylinder would that be a good idea or just go with the 3" one, cheers
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Rank: Guest
Groups: Guests
Joined: 2/10/2002(UTC) Posts: 5,254
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Have you put the pencil to this endeavor and compared it with a store bought model price wise? Person gonna go around buying three inch copper needs a real fat wallet. Two hundred and fifty bucks for a ten foot stick I think the plumber say..that is if you can find somebody who has some who is willing to sell it a stick at a time. Last time I checked they wanted to know how many box cars did I need..lol.
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Rank: Newbie Groups: Registered
Joined: 5/3/2012(UTC) Posts: 4
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Well I'm just using the materials at work because we don't do pipework there anymore and its just sitting there so all I need to buy are some fittings, length and size of the pipe doesn't matter to me I just want to make what works best, what length and diameter would be best to use for everything? I was just going to use 2" stuff because we have a couple of those fittings at work already so I don't really have anything to buy in that case.
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Rank: Advanced Member Groups: Registered
Joined: 3/1/2012(UTC) Posts: 198
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Originally Posted by: nug Thanks for the replies, I'm going out today to get some parts and it should be finished off by next weekend because I have to make it up at work and will put some pictures up of the finished product than.
The lengths of everything I was going to use are these: main column 24" Secondary column 10" Condensing cylinder 12" Collecting base 4"
And I was wondering why is it best to use a larger condensing cylinder. I was originally planing to use 3/8 soft copper pipe just to give the water a higher maximum flow rate because the 1/4 looked a bit small and I was going to use a sand bending method wile wrapping it around a 2¹/⁴" pipe to make it a neat fit inside the cylinder would that be a good idea or just go with the 3" one, cheers You are in no way married to that condensor style. I am looking at making a a modular column still that works as a flute(cm) or a valved reflux(lm) by simply bolting in a center piece for the valved reflux or attaching the 180 degree elbow into the second condensor for running as a flute. Either will use the same 4" diameter shotgun style condensor for reflux.
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Rank: Junior Member Groups: Registered
Joined: 4/6/2012(UTC) Posts: 133
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You know as well as me that your hootch would'nt taste too good if it was exposed to anything other than copper or stainless. Heat transfer has a little to do with it, but not nearly as important as it's neutral transfer of taste. I screwed up one time and bought copper scrubbers for my column and after the second batch it tasted like rusty metal. Found out that it was copper coated steel. If a magnet sticks to it, you don't want to use it.
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Rank: Advanced Member Groups: Registered
Joined: 3/1/2012(UTC) Posts: 198
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"Most of the ones i have seen have the water coming in and going back out the top cap which is not soldered on. As far as the pipe surrounding the condensor it certainly is going to have some distillate condensing on it. For my design the condensor will be 304 stainless(same as brewhaus stuff) but shotgun style using copper pipe so all distillate will condense in copper. Stainless column with copper plates. Only two sight glasses though. I have seen professional distillers for sale while researching that use 8 plates and only 2 sight glasses. Multiples look nice but i think maybe just for show.(at least thats what i tell the old lady...)"
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Rank: Advanced Member Groups: Registered
Joined: 3/1/2012(UTC) Posts: 198
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My understanding from watching the hillbillystills videos and reading up on the flute thread on the other board is they are used to moniter relux at the beginning and end of the run as well as allow you to monitor for flooding of the column. Some professional models i looked a had the site glasses between the 2-3 plate and top and last plate. From what i have gathered this makes sense for being able to moniter when you reach full reflux as well as knowing when to increase reflux at the end of the run to compress the tails.
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Rank: Newbie Groups: Registered
Joined: 5/3/2012(UTC) Posts: 4
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Hey guys just wondering if it matter if you use brass fittings in the still head
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Rank: Junior Member Groups: Registered
Joined: 4/6/2012(UTC) Posts: 133
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Maybe you could hook up a computer program to the still and you would'nt have to know nothin. I don't think that you ever seen a real hootch making hillbilly look thru a site glass. He might taste it once in awhile, cut it, jug it and get rid of it. Most of us, including me, rarely reach there quality and quantity. You can't beat common sense and expeience.
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Rank: Advanced Member Groups: Registered
Joined: 2/4/2012(UTC) Posts: 303
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Originally Posted by: nug Hey guys just wondering if it matter if you use brass fittings in the still head See http://www.brewhausforum.com/showthread.php?t=2043
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Rank: Advanced Member Groups: Registered
Joined: 3/1/2012(UTC) Posts: 198
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" Originally Posted by: badbill2 Maybe you could hook up a computer program to the still and you would'nt have to know nothin. I don't think that you ever seen a real hootch making hillbilly look thru a site glass. He might taste it once in awhile, cut it, jug it and get rid of it. Most of us, including me, rarely reach there quality and quantity. You can't beat common sense and expeience. Why be such as ass? Not all of us are tying to be hooch making hill billies. The best part of this post is the ""including me"" as if you are some sort of legend. You have been on this site a month and admit you only make sugar shine. One minute you are crapping on the idea of running stuff multiple times, now you crap on a still designed so you don't have to do multiple runs. Pardon me for wanting to replicate a small scale bourbon distillery instead of some crappy submarine still using backwoods hillbilly. You really can't beat common sense and experience. Im just not so sure you possess either..."
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Rank: Junior Member Groups: Registered
Joined: 4/6/2012(UTC) Posts: 133
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Ohyeayea, Sounds like I hit a nerve. Sorry about that. I wish I could afford to build a world class distillery. I envy you. I see you don't have any friends. Maybe ask "bigwheel" He likes everyone.
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Rank: Advanced Member Groups: Registered
Joined: 3/1/2012(UTC) Posts: 198
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No friends? Ur mom likes me plenty.
I don't care if someone is making sugar shine with an e-z still or replicating belvedere vodka with a refraction column. If you are happy with your product good on you. Not sure why you feel differently.
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Rank: Advanced Member Groups: Registered
Joined: 3/1/2012(UTC) Posts: 198
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Rank: Administration Groups: Administrators
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Let's remember to play nice, everyone.
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Rank: Advanced Member Groups: Registered
Joined: 2/4/2012(UTC) Posts: 303
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Rank: Advanced Member Groups: Registered
Joined: 3/1/2012(UTC) Posts: 198
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Sorry must have been dippin into the four fights per pint stuff....
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