The box contains a DPDT relay that is activated by a pid control. It applies 220 volts untill the sensor detects heat at the base of the column then the relay drops back to the normally closed position which applys 120 volts and the router control. I had hoped to set the still up with sensors and solenoid valves to separate the fores, head, hearts and tails. Unfortunately surgery and recoup time screwed up those plans.

"I am looking into electric, I believe its cheaper where I am, as compared to propane. As an Electrician I feel a bit more at ease with it. That is why running 220 volt power is not a problem. Also I've been present when 2 different gas control valves failed due to heat and it was too hot to get close enough shut off the tank valve. Me personally, I just feel safer with electric, IMHO.

I have not yet ordered the pot I want yet, I am still exploring my options. I had seen the pots on other sites, with couplers added but was not aware that Rick would add them. I like that option better than the propane or hot plate.

The DPDT switch with a 220/110v 4-wire supply seems to be a safe option with terminals mounted inside a sealed enclosure. I can pull a feed from my hot tub panel so it would be GFCI protected as well.

I am looking to order in the next few weeks, still getting ideas and options. I hate to order and then see another option a week later that I wish I investigated a little further.
Please keep the ideas, opinions and personal setup coming!
Thanks"

"I favor the brewhaus premium boiler because the cover comes off for easier cleaning.



Here is another idea for monitoring your app;ied voltage and current.
I got the guages from an outfit called skycraft

http://www.skycraftsurplus.com/acpanelmeter.aspx"

Got to agree with ya on the BH milk buckets. They mighty nice and easy to clean. I aint never had anything remotely try to stick or scorch..even considering it has a flat bottom and if something was going to cause problems the flat bottom should contribute. Leads me to the perhaps erroneous opinion that a round bottom beer keg would be even less apt to have issues. Looks like a person could take out the element(s) and scrub it through the hole with a long neck beer bottle brush in a worst case scenario. Or maybe that could be done on a routine basis. At least take them out and look to see if something is taking root down in there lol.

Yeppers losing a load would be a heart breaker.

"It seems opinions vary on this...I do most of my runs (Rum, Whiskey, Vodka) with the both sections and copper scrubbers in them. I run without water in the reflux head and run slow...this creates a reflux of its own but not anywhere the extent of running water through the column.
I do this and run 1 time where many others run with the center section removed without water and run fast but with 2 runs. This will be a matter of personal preference, and this model gives you both options. I think 8 gallons is right size, easy to manage and a lot of recipes are set up for 5-6 gallon size. The 8 gallon size is easy to reach and clean and I have never had any issue with sticky molasses or corn burning onto the element.

I have the PSII high cap w/8 gallon kettle. I had BH weld a coupler to it for an internal heater, and installed a water heater element. The craftsmanship is outstanding...I don't believe you would be disappointed!
My opinion is if you have a little extra cash have the coupler welded at purchase, if you don't use it right away plug it, but it is a great option for a little expense up front that gives you much versatility

I know I kinda went on a rant about internal heaters, just very happy with my setup... to answer your original question:



Yes I think it gives you all the flexibility you need!

Just my 2 cents! "

Thanks for info. Would this be similar to a water heater element? I assume the element will boil the mash inside the kettle?