nice rig you got going there. Enjoy

"Hi Johnny, from the pictures it looks like your input to the tower is going in at the bottom and coming out at the top of the tower. You need to have the coldest water at the top of the tower, not the warmest, in order to regulate the temp efficiently. The coldest point on the tower is at the top.
On another note you may consider a digital remote thermometer. I find it very helpful and easy to read. comes in handy when you need to go get another beer and they are a lot easier to read.
Have Fun."

Great Advice Bushy, however in my research i've read that it isn't always necessary to cool the column if the temps are correct only to cool the temps that way and leave the heat source alone. They book shows a totally different way of connecting it up. I hooked it up that way looked at it and thought about it and to me it just didn't make sense so...thankful the this and another forum and a few photos the setup I have is what is recommended. The way i have it now is that I can run cool water to both the column and the condenser and if the temps are right then I can only run water to the condenser and not the column. I've also read about having two pumps one for the column and one for the condenser looks like a lot more money if ya ask me.

Hi Johnny and Scotty, Yes the manual does say to run the tower water from the bottom up which makes no sense to me but maybe the admin can clarify why that is recommended.
I do use two different pumps, one for the tower and one for the condencer. I also have a brass ball valve inline to both for a more precise water control. This works well for me, but allways open to a better idea.
Have Fun

I would never run all my water through the condenser & the reflux tubes, even when I used only 1 pump. Then I used the Tee fitting Rick sent & split the stream. Now I have 2 pumps, but usually use the hose fitting for my reflux water. Ever since I had a well dug I don't mind watering the grass with the reflux water. This way my 40 gal tank for condenser water doesn't heat up as quick.

On the condenser - in at the bottom, reflux in at the top. This way the steam always approaches from warmer to cooler. Otherwise it would be possible to overrun the cooling & reflash.

Naw - 40 gal horse tank handles the condenser just fine, even in this 100* heat. 20 gal until it get warm & then fill it on up. Runs all day & I don't dump so much on the yard, as the condenser will flow a lot. I charge the reflux lines & leave them still until the temp comes up. Then I give it moderate flow for as long as I wish to reflux (usually about 45 min), then I turn the water down to a steady drip & that's enough to control the heat until about midway, then I have to turn the water up to a very small stream. That works until I get to the tails & then I just shut off the water & pull it hard to get the starter for the next run.

BW: sorry that ya still can't see the photos. Yes i have a valve on my input cooling line in-between the condenser and the column. The only thing i may change is my input hose into the column and have it go into the top tube instead of the bottom, thats no big deal to change. I'm heading to the homebrew store later to pick up some distillers yeast and get home and mix up something to cook. i'm ready to fire this extractor up and start extractin...
thanks for the great advice I'm really excited about starting my first wash then running it. I've made notes along the way to read i've done that and re-read them many times just doing some small last minute things.

I got cornfused too..not that that bring any comfort..lol. I tend to be easily..flabbergasted? On mine if you get a full frontal view with the condenser to the left where the hooch lands in the slop jar ok..the drain hose for the entire ball of wax seems to be low and straight ahead. I had a bunch of grand chillins trying to figger out how to hook up a 3 D apparatus from a flat schematic. They bound to got it right cuz I aint notice any insurmountable problemos like reflashing..whatever that might prove to be...other than the cheesy snap on hose clamps aint worth a caca. I have popped hoses loose in places which should not even have places. The auto parts store should become your best friend for good clamps. If you dont replace any do the one which inputs to the condenser. It start dripping unbeknownst to the operator and flow down the side of the pipe and fill the hooch jar with cool clear water. Person can get a weak hooch rap on that deal. Best of fortunes on your run Johnny..kindly keeps us posted. Best plan is to use the Tiawan clamps where it aint supposed to need any..and use the good clamps where is say your supposed to have one. Then start replacing them in non strategic locations as circumstances warrant.

No - top of the condenser is the return line back to tank. I run 2 separate water circuits. Reflash - pushing the column so hard that the condensate moves fro liquid back to vapor. ie, cooler water at the top of the condenser with the water exit at the bottom. Vapor initially cools, but then is allowed to get warmer as it travels the condensate tube. If you are pushing the column too hard you might cause the condensate to reflash back to steam. Not likely, but possible.

Hey Rat what is the reason you want to have your condensate heat back up before exiting? I always thought a condenser's purpose was to cool things down. Does it make a difference in quality? What am I missing.
Have Fun.