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Originally Posted by: Maddawgs Can you suggest any other good books to add to the list? You might want to take a look at "Artisan Distilling" by Kris Arvid Berglund. Given the price (free), it's well worth a review. The latest electronic version is available at: http://distillery-yeast.com/free-pdf-documents There are other useful docs there as well. Just so everyone knows ... here's the copyright notice: Notice: This book is provided free of charge for individual use by Michigan State University (MSU) and Luleå University of Technology (LTU). Any commercial use, reproduction for sale, or use in courses that charge a fee not offered in conjunction with MSU and LTU is strictly prohibited without prior written authorization. All rights reserved. Copyright 2005, Kris Arvid Berglund. --JB
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Quote:...that have a heating element plumbed in. Is this something that brewhaus does? We can add a 1" NPT fitting for $35. If you require a different fitting then we would just need to first cost out the fitting, but would gladly do so.
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Hi Jb, Thanks, looks like another good link with some good info. I really liking the compleat distiller. Thanks, Todd
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Originally Posted by: Admin We can add a 1" NPT fitting for $35. If you require a different fitting then we would just need to first cost out the fitting, but would gladly do so. Hi Admin, Thanks for the info. I really like sites where the suppliers join in. Do you sell the 1500 watt heating element also or is something I'll need to find on my own? Thanks again, Todd
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Rank: Senior Member Groups: Registered, Moderator Joined: 7/25/2009(UTC) Posts: 2,209
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Originally Posted by: Maddawgs Hi Admin, Thanks for the info. I really like sites where the suppliers join in. Do you sell the 1500 watt heating element also or is something I'll need to find on my own? Thanks again, Todd BTW MD What size breaker protects the line you are going to plug the element into?
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Quote:Do you sell the 1500 watt heating element also or is something I'll need to find on my own? We do not supply the heating elements. I have seen too many variances in what people want, from cheap water heater elements to high-end stainless or incoloy elements.
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Rank: Senior Member Groups: Registered, Moderator Joined: 4/14/2010(UTC) Posts: 1,666
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IMHO....Lowes or HD sell all you want but theres no real need to buy the most expensive one you can find. They only do one thing -------heat up a liquid. None work better than others.
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" Originally Posted by: bigwheel Well I go over and hang out with the Aussies some when the abuse comes too hot and heavy on here I enjoy your absences ... please feel free to hang with the Aussies as much as you want. And BTW you're confusing ""abuse"" with admonition or reprimand. You sure do whine a lot for someone who claims to be a Texan."
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Originally Posted by: scotty BTW MD What size breaker protects the line you are going to plug the element into? Hi Scotty, I'll be using a dedicated 20 amp breaker. I'm thinking that should be enough for a 1500 watt heater. I could be wrong. Todd
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Rank: Senior Member Groups: Registered, Moderator Joined: 7/25/2009(UTC) Posts: 2,209
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Originally Posted by: Maddawgs Hi Scotty, I'll be using a dedicated 20 amp breaker. I'm thinking that should be enough for a 1500 watt heater. I could be wrong. Todd you could easily use a 2000 wat heat element-- you could safely use a 2300 watt element which will draw a tad over 19 amps-- then put a router control in line to cutt the wattage back when the still starts to produce alcohol. P=IXE watts = current times voltage. manipulate the formula 20 amps 120 volts is actually 2400 watts max 2300 watts is perfect
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I am taking a bit of a different approach. Currently have 2 120 v 2000 watters in there. Plan is to run it up to operating temps using both then unplugging one to try and hold in a useable temp range with the water control mechanism. Adroitly leaving the router controller out of the equation. This is coming up on run five using the system. Hoping these are the elements which will to the trick right. It came real close using 1 1500 watter but couldnt quite cut the mustard. Now I may wind up snagging a 1500 watter yet again..if the 2000 bad boy on the 15 amp circuit decide to pop the breaker too much. It actually had enough water to tame 2 240 v elements hooked to 120 v circuit when running both in unison. Just came out a little fast for my liking. The condenser was kewlish and the distillate burn your hand. Not sure how that happens. If forced to make an irrational decision on this today..I would start out with 1 2000 watter dedicated to running the whole session..and 1 1500 watt model designed to be used only in the pre heat cycle. This considering a well insulated bucket. Happy Hooching.
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Originally Posted by: scotty you could easily use a 2000 wat heat element-- you could safely use a 2300 watt element which will draw a tad over 19 amps-- then put a router control in line to cutt the wattage back when the still starts to produce alcohol. P=IXE watts = current times voltage. manipulate the formula 20 amps 120 volts is actually 2400 watts max 2300 watts is perfect Hi Scotty, Thanks for the verification. I just read that part of The Compleat Distiller this morning so I thought I was on the right track. I may go with a 1500 watt hot plate and router control switch. Will I need to modify the hot plate so it does not cycle, and if so is there a link on how to do this? Would it be better to Brewhaus put in a npt and go with an internal heater? Thanks again, Todd
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Rank: Senior Member Groups: Registered, Moderator Joined: 7/25/2009(UTC) Posts: 2,209
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Originally Posted by: Maddawgs Hi Scotty, Thanks for the verification. I just read that part of The Compleat Distiller this morning so I thought I was on the right track. I may go with a 1500 watt hot plate and router control switch. Will I need to modify the hot plate so it does not cycle, and if so is there a link on how to do this? Would it be better to Brewhaus put in a npt and go with an internal heater? Thanks again, Todd We all will help you modify the hot plate--its easy to do and un do--- Yes getthe 1 inch npt installed even if you do not intend to use it first The internal heater is more efficient. You can just pllug it if you dont want to use it, Buit the internal heater and router control are a winning combo. There are many posibilitys with heat control. Even more if you have 220 volts available; and please dont avoid the router control.
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Dittos to what Scotty say on the hotplate rewire. Its a total no brainer. I did it myself which is a clue. You unplug one wire and plug it in somewhere else blah blah blah. Make sure to note where the little plastic legs fit into the grand scheme of things. In Taiwan them is also called load bearing nubs or something. Best make em fit back into the hidden notches from whence they came. Kindly dont axe me how I figgered this out..not that my hotplate leans further to East than West etc. Now I teach folks how to brace it up to do big loads if you got time to wait for it to heat up. Let me know. Thanks.
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Rank: Advanced Member Groups: Registered
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Originally Posted by: bigwheel You unplug one wire and plug it in somewhere else blah blah blah. Such detailed instructions...
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Hi Scotty, Thanks for the info. I'm actually thinking of doing both the 1500 watt internal thru the npt with the rsc plus the 1500 watt hot plate. I'm thinking that with the 15 gal this combo will help bring everything up to temp quicker. Once at temp turn off the hot plate and just use the internal with the rsc to control the temp thru the run. If this sounds like a bad idea, just let me know--I am still a total newbie. This is kind of a modification of what bigwheel does with his set up (thanks bw). By the way thanks to all, I'm loving this forum. It has only been just a bit over a week and I've already learned a ton of stuff. Thanks, Todd
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Originally Posted by: John Barleycorn Even a broken watch is right twice a day. If you take a closer look you will find that a significant portion of his "contributions" are offensive and/or insulting. They are often incomplete or flat out incorrect. He's a buffoon who wastes time and thread space, and on his better days, offers useless commentary that obscures discussion points simply to promote his own "presence." He was chased off of HD within a few weeks of his arrival there (after offering dangerous advice) ... and now, unfortunately, he hangs his hat here, like a stray cat that's been given too much food.
Maddawgs, I very much appreciate your patience and sense of cooperation. They are qualities that are always very welcome. That said, you're relatively new here (as am I), so you haven't had the misfortune of suffering through the almost nine months of vomit that has been spewed from his broken mind. I strongly suggest that you take _anything_ he says with a grain of salt ... and seek a second opinion. Or better, just ignore it.
If we're lucky, he won't go away mad ... he'll just go away. Then, perhaps, more of the old timers who are sitting on a wealth of experience and knowledge will begin to participate again ... which will benefit all of us.
Regards, --JB Hi JB, Thanks for the info. I'm a big believer in the "grain of salt thing" so I will take your advice. By the way, what is HD? As in "he was chased off HD". Is this another place of good information? Oh and again thanks for the recommendation of the books. So far "The Compleat Distiller" is a great read, the authors definitely put their time in on that one. I'm hoping the others you suggested are as good. Thanks, Todd
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"Hi Todd , > By the way, what is HD? HD is the ""Home Distiller Forums."" There is a lot of good information there. > and again thanks for the recommendation of the books. You bet. Read as much as you can get your hands on. There's soooo much to learn. The great part is that we can actually experiment with the things we've learned ... and taste the results. Regards, --JB"
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Quote:sure hope admin is keeping pace with the hot bs being dispensed I am watching, rather closely, in fact. Quote:The standarized remedy for the dielemma is just dont read what is posted by those who you dont like to hear from I t is not a matter of simply not reading what you (or anyone else) writes, and people should not feel that they have to week through crap to find a gem. When someone is perusing a thread to find information, they cannot ignore a post until they read it- and by that time they have wasted their time. Enough times of that and they will just give up on our forum. This is precisely why off-topic chatter is to go to the 'Just for Fun' threads (that is what it is for!), and the information based threads are to stay that way. This has been explained previously, yet this particular thread continues to grow with more junk that has nothing to do with the original question posed by Maddawgs. Nobody wants to wade through 7 pages, with (likely) less than three that pertain to the question. A person is brought to this thread by the subject, and it seems that actual contribution to the original question stopped long ago. I will now go back through this thread. If it has skewed from topic as much as I believe then I will remove ALL non-relevant posts and close the thread from further discussion. Quote:Wouldnt that be simpler than making yourselves all mad..hurling insults etc? With all due respect, BW, I can count on one hand the number of times we had such issues prior to you gracing us with your presence. I now would lose count (with more than the fair share of insults and offensive comments belonging to you, BW), and am starting to become concerned that the level of contribution is being dragged down and will not think twice about banning those responsible if that is what I must do in order to get back to the level of discussion that we used to enjoy. Up to now I have gritted my teeth and accepted this as part of allowing people to interact. But it is time to put this forum back on path for those who come here actually seeking information!
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Useless, off-topic posts have now been removed, and fortunately the thread still reads rather smoothly. This dropped the thread from 7.5 pages to roughly 3.5. Any off-topic contributions from this point forward will be removed. Nobody should have to waste their time cleaning up the threads, or reading through useless jibberish. A bit of off-topic chit-chat is expected, and in the interest of making this an enjoyable place to get information and make friends, it will be accepted. But offensive or abusive posts will no longer receive a warning- they will simply be removed immediately. The first such post will receive a warning. The second receives an infraction. And the third will be permanent banning. Let's all play nice! :)
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