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Yeast and Fermentation
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Yeast
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Something folks dont talk about enough
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"This is a clip from an article posted on the EC KRAUSE website-- At least that company is good for something lol lol
The first thing I'm going to say about avoiding oxidation might not be what you'd expect,
but it's important to know. ((((Make sure the fermentation has plenty of oxygen in the beginning "” particularly the first 2 to 3 days of fermentation.)))) This is the time when the little packet of wine yeast you add to the must needs to multiply itself into a colony that is 100 to 200 times its original size. The wine yeast desperately needs oxygen to accomplish this."
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Thanks Scotty. Knew it needed some air but wasnt sure how much for how long. Believe I will wait a day or two before locking it down next time.
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thats not going to help-- it must be aerated properly.
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" Originally Posted by: crausen  thats not going to help-- it must be aerated properly. That is correct...the o2 he speaks of needs to be disolved into the solution -- hence the term--- areate your wort. Leaving the lid off and exposing it to the atmosphere could be a bad thing."
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Ok well I always aereate when I think about it..lol. I think the fine hose spray does a purty good job then I try to hammer with the fish bubbler for at least an hour two before pitching. Try to hit it with paint stirrer a few time over the course of usually a couple of days. What more can a Mother do? Now for cowboy wine some like to splash around in it ten days or so. That would mean a long wait for some shine.
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What I've always done was just stir the piss outta it while it cooks and I always stir it as much as possible while it cools before i throw the yeast.. I'm usually on it to if I got a batch cooling I'll stir it like crazy with my .28 cent paint stirrer trying to cool it. Once it's down and I pitch my yeast I slowly stir the yeast in and lock it down that night. Seems to aerate and produce good likker for me that way.. No need to mess with it for days. I'd say that hose spray and some stirring afterward is fine enough as lOng as you stir it good
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" Originally Posted by: Mkjt88 What I've always done was just stir the piss outta it while it cooks and I always stir it as much as possible while it cools before i throw the yeast.. You might want to have a look at the following: http://www.howtobrew.com...ction1/chapter6-9-3.html--JB"
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It does say may mess with the brew and hops to produce off flavors.. not anything I mess with in my wort. I actually think I will try this though next time and see if I notice a difference. I was just posting what I do and saying I've had great results doing it this way. Appreciate the extra knowledge
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Thats a great link. Have visited over there on numerous occasions previously. I will definitely start letting the wash cool down before aerating. Musta missed that part. That is one of my favorite cool down strategies. While there is a lot of good info on there..some of it is bound to be of more interest to beer makers than to hooch producers. In fact seem to recall some lively discussions on here of the efficacy of trying to use wort chillers etc. to bring the wash temps down rapidly..and think it was generally decided some of the beer making techniques mentioned are not needed to hooch. Seems like Heeler had some good thoughts on this topic. Hopefully he will pop by and splains it to us..if it was him of course.
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" Originally Posted by: bigwheel In fact seem to recall some lively discussions on here of the efficacy of trying to use wort chillers etc. to bring the wash temps down rapidly..and think it was generally decided some of the beer making techniques mentioned are not needed to hooch. WRT chilling a simple sugar wash I think that's a reasonable statement. Also, stirring a hot sugar wash may not be a problem, as Mkjt88 pointed out, since you won't have the fatty acids that you get when you conduct an actual mash. If you are conducting a mash there are some benefits to chilling. I'm referring to real brewing here, not just throwing sugar and hot water on top of some corn for flavoring. Preventing oxidation is one. If you think oxidation is causing issues, then you might want to consider chilling the wort. The quick temperature also helps to reduce dimethyl sulfide (DMS). But DMS has a relatively low boiling point, so I would expect the lion's share of it would come across well before you're into your hearts. Outside of that, there are some sanitary benefits ... but you can avoid sanitary problems with a little paranoia.:) In any case, Palmer has an awful lot of great information, especially if you want to play around with all grain. It's well worth the $10 to have a copy handy. The online version is a great reference, but I find the print version much easier to navigate. Regards, --JB"
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Something folks dont talk about enough
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