 Rank: Junior Member Groups: Registered
Joined: 10/8/2012(UTC)
Posts: 31
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"Hey All,
First, I guess it is best to introduce myself. Obviously my name is Dave from somewhere in the backwoods of Alabama. I have been reading and building a still for quite some time now and have finally decided to give it a go this week. I have been a homebrewer for years so I have a little experience in making alcohol but this will be my first still. My current setup is a half barrel keg for my kettle coupled to a 3"" copper tower that is 36"" long, no plates at all. It turns 90* at the top and runs 18"" and turns up 90* again where I have an 18"" helix coil condenser. Like a reflux condenser but not on the main column. All of that is 3"" copper and the helix is 5/16 tubing x ~20'. In the 18"" run I 45* down to 1/2"" and run a 24"" liebig condenser with a 3/4"" water jacket. I was originally going to just run the liebig but I thought I may need the extra helix to help considering the 3"" tower. With that being said, I am looking to run an excellent quality corn whiskey/bourbon. I ordered my grains and yeast today, my wash consists of 10 gallons water, 20 lbs. crushed corn, 3 lbs. Briess 6 row malt. I am using Bert Strand's Whisky Yeast w/ AG. I will probably add some yeast nutrients as well since I have some White Labs nutrients just sitting around. Oh yeah, I will be doing this in the garage with a propane burner, basically the same setup I use for brewing my beer.
So, on to the questions. I have seen a ton of comments about stripping run and secondary run. I plan on using mine as a pot still for the corn whisky was wondering about packing the column and how fast I should run. I didn't intend to pack the column as I would like the flavor to shine through. What are your thoughts? I also am not sure on how hard to run this thing. I have seen many people indicate a pencil lead size stream. I have also seen people say that you can't control it, the design of the still basically dictates the flow. That leaves quite a bit to the imagination for how much heat I need to apply.
What are your thoughts, comments, condemnations, etc on this so far?
And thanks in advance for the help! I am happy to listen to anything anyone has to say."
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 Rank: Senior Member Groups: Registered, Moderator
Joined: 4/14/2010(UTC)
Posts: 1,666
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Hola Dave, In my opinion packing the tower is exactly what you need. The still you described will indeed make a good grain likker and you need to pack the tower to remove the sulphides that fermentation creats. Now when we cook a beer ( I also make beer) we actually boil it but in cooking likker mash we have the heat down really low soas not to overrun the liebig condenser, we are only trying to atomize the ethanol as you will see. Now since you mentioned that this is your first run I would say go low and slow on the heat until you figger out what really works for you and your still. I use basically the same setup you mentioned and know first hand it will make a flavor careover in your distillate. Once you learn where the cuts will be made then you can push the heat and speed up the process but for now take it slow with the heat. You will see that the flame if not protected will be blown out so be carefull there. Protect the burner from wind. Hope this helps and happy stillin.
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Rank: Guest
Groups: Guests
Joined: 2/10/2002(UTC)
Posts: 5,254
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Hey Dave welcome. I was also taught the pencil lead type stream for pot stilling..but mine prefers to do a fairly rapid drippy splatter which also seems to work. First I heard of not being able to control the flow. If it cant be controlled by the heat dont seem likely it could be controlled at all....since thats about the only control there is. Most folks seem to prefer a little packing in the column. Might be fine not to use any since you have a copper column. Us SS types have to get some copper in the path to remove the sulphides as previously mentioned. I hear folks speaking of stripping runs and spirit runs blah blah blah. I am way to lazy to participate in that redundant activity. I run it and drink it...lol.
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Rank: Senior Member Groups: Registered, Moderator
Joined: 4/14/2010(UTC)
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Dave, I just re-read your post and did I see your tower goes up then turns 90 and then goes up again???? That might creat a problem with the condensate unless it drains at the bottom of the next 90, but maybe I just misunderstood. Can you post some pics??? Just me being nosey.
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Rank: Junior Member Groups: Registered
Joined: 10/8/2012(UTC)
Posts: 31
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I understand what you are saying heeler and will get some pics up in about 3 hours or so. I am at work right now but as soon as I get home I will put some up. I don't think the condensate will have a problem, it should reach the helix and drain back down to the lowest point which is where my 45* is coming out of the straight run. Unless of course, there is so much vapor pushing it back up that it doesn't allow that to happen. I have just considered that possibility. Probably why I haven't seen anyone make a tower like mine. Worst case is, I can add the helix to them main tower, close off the other 90* and only run it when I want a high reflux. Will get some pics up soon. Thanks for the comment!
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Rank: Junior Member Groups: Registered
Joined: 10/8/2012(UTC)
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Here is a picture of what I have so far. I ordered the keg connector from Brewhaus yesterday and still have not connected the second 90 on the right side but you should get the basic idea from the picture. [ATTACH=CONFIG]563[/ATTACH] BamaDave attached the following image(s):  P1010072.JPG (239kb) downloaded 0 time(s).You cannot view/download attachments. Try to login or register.
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Rank: Senior Member Groups: Registered, Moderator
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"that will work just the way it is, the liebig condenser will do what it should just like that. Not sure how the helix will come into play with that setup but I dont think you need both. I know the helix is a condenser too but I dont think you need both.
When you get your ferrel you can soldier it right to the tower and that will clamp right to the keg. Easy peasy nice and easy. Clamp and cook.
Did you order copper mesh for the tower too?? That too will make a cleaner product.....the mesh is not a absolute must but will aide in cleaning up your hooch. If you did'nt order them you can get some at the grocery store.
If you dont know how to get the neck out of the keg you can go to Youtube and watch a video on removal of them. That too is really easy once you see it."
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Rank: Junior Member Groups: Registered
Joined: 10/8/2012(UTC)
Posts: 31
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Thanks Heeler, I already have the neck out. I don't have any copper scrubbers because I didn't want to knock down the flavor too much but I may put about a foots worth in there and see how it tastes the first run. I ordered the connector that clamps onto the keg with the triclamp and has the screw fitting on the opposite end from BrewHaus, not the ferrel, since I already had the copper fittings to screw directly on to that and sweat on to my tower. I will have to stop by and pick up a 2x3 reducer to get to the tower but that is not a big deal. My grains are due in tomorrow so I will have all week of fermenting to finish the fittings.
As for the helix, it was more of an afterthought actually. I was worried that pushing the 3" of vapor through the 1/2" liebig may be too much for it without spitting like crazy.
Since you are a brewer as well, I have noticed a lot of people talking about finishing their mash at ~2-3 days? Does this sound squirrely to you? I normally check SG around 3 days going into the secondary and always get another .010 - .015 more out of my wert. Is it just that the extra small percentage of alcohol in the mash isn't worth the wait when distilling or are most just impatient for the run? I am not that interested in making cheap shine that beats the cost at the liquor store. I can buy everclear and knock it down with water if I wanted to get drunk cheap. My main concern, as with brewing beer, is too make a higher quality product than I can buy at the store. If it takes a little more work, so be it.
I will keep records and photos and post here as I make progress. Thanks for your advice!
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Rank: Junior Member Groups: Registered
Joined: 10/8/2012(UTC)
Posts: 31
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Well, I finally have everything together and have made a vinegar run through it last night. I have a batch of all grain fermenting for the past two weeks and it smells wonderful. I plan on buying a gallon of everclear tomorrow and diluting it with 5 gallons of water, that should put me around 20% abv, just to run through for a trial spirit run so I don't waste my first wash. Posted a few pics below, let me know what you think. [ATTACH=CONFIG]588[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]589[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]590[/ATTACH] BamaDave attached the following image(s): P1010101.jpg (218kb) downloaded 0 time(s). P1010105.jpg (172kb) downloaded 0 time(s). P1010106.jpg (172kb) downloaded 0 time(s).You cannot view/download attachments. Try to login or register.
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Rank: Senior Member Groups: Registered
Joined: 1/27/2012(UTC)
Posts: 526
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Hi BD, Looking Good! I like the steam pictures. Did you also hook up the condenser to make sure there are no leaks?
Talking about a fast ferment wash usually means a sugar wash of some sort, otherwise a 10 to 15 day, or more, time frame is pretty standard. As you know from brewing it takes time to make quality.
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Rank: Junior Member Groups: Registered
Joined: 10/8/2012(UTC)
Posts: 31
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Thanks Bushy, the condenser is on there, it is a liebig 1/2 thru 3/4. I had a ton of leaks, none on my condenser though. Mostly on the reducers. I thought I could solder pretty well until I began pushing that steam through! I had to shut it down three times and repair different leaks. I was pretty frustrated by the end, regardless, I would rather deal with them now than have to deal with them in the middle of an alcohol run. I will post some more pictures later this week when I run the everclear wash through it. Thanks again!
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Rank: Advanced Member Groups: Registered
Joined: 3/1/2012(UTC)
Posts: 198
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Originally Posted by: BamaDave  Thanks Heeler, I already have the neck out. I don't have any copper scrubbers because I didn't want to knock down the flavor too much but I may put about a foots worth in there and see how it tastes the first run. I ordered the connector that clamps onto the keg with the triclamp and has the screw fitting on the opposite end from BrewHaus, not the ferrel, since I already had the copper fittings to screw directly on to that and sweat on to my tower. I will have to stop by and pick up a 2x3 reducer to get to the tower but that is not a big deal. My grains are due in tomorrow so I will have all week of fermenting to finish the fittings.
As for the helix, it was more of an afterthought actually. I was worried that pushing the 3" of vapor through the 1/2" liebig may be too much for it without spitting like crazy.
Since you are a brewer as well, I have noticed a lot of people talking about finishing their mash at ~2-3 days? Does this sound squirrely to you? I normally check SG around 3 days going into the secondary and always get another .010 - .015 more out of my wert. Is it just that the extra small percentage of alcohol in the mash isn't worth the wait when distilling or are most just impatient for the run? I am not that interested in making cheap shine that beats the cost at the liquor store. I can buy everclear and knock it down with water if I wanted to get drunk cheap. My main concern, as with brewing beer, is too make a higher quality product than I can buy at the store. If it takes a little more work, so be it.
I will keep records and photos and post here as I make progress. Thanks for your advice! You don't do a secondary fermintation when you are distilling like you do when you are making beer. Thats why even with an all grain mash its usually done in 3 or 4 days.
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Rank: Advanced Member Groups: Registered
Joined: 7/14/2012(UTC)
Posts: 217
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" Originally Posted by: BamaDave Thanks Heeler, I already have the neck out. I don't have any copper scrubbers because I didn't want to knock down the flavor too much but I may put about a foots worth in there and see how it tastes the first run. I ordered the connector that clamps onto the keg with the triclamp and has the screw fitting on the opposite end from BrewHaus, not the ferrel, since I already had the copper fittings to screw directly on to that and sweat on to my tower. I will have to stop by and pick up a 2x3 reducer to get to the tower but that is not a big deal. My grains are due in tomorrow so I will have all week of fermenting to finish the fittings.
As for the helix, it was more of an afterthought actually. I was worried that pushing the 3"" of vapor through the 1/2"" liebig may be too much for it without spitting like crazy.
Since you are a brewer as well, I have noticed a lot of people talking about finishing their mash at ~2-3 days? Does this sound squirrely to you? I normally check SG around 3 days going into the secondary and always get another .010 - .015 more out of my wert. Is it just that the extra small percentage of alcohol in the mash isn't worth the wait when distilling or are most just impatient for the run? I am not that interested in making cheap shine that beats the cost at the liquor store. I can buy everclear and knock it down with water if I wanted to get drunk cheap. My main concern, as with brewing beer, is too make a higher quality product than I can buy at the store. If it takes a little more work, so be it.
I will keep records and photos and post here as I make progress. Thanks for your advice! Dave in my opinion you are gonna do just fine!!!!! Looks like a real usable rig. Now, on the stripping run.....as big stated you will hear many different comments on this.......depending what you are after......If I heard you correctly, your after a bit of flavor and a hell've buzz........ I my self over look the additional work in favor of the ABV....... if you are gonna strip, fast and hard.....it don't matter you just want that eth,,,,,,, I have even don't this in the pot mode......I have pulled 65% in the pot mode and run it again to end up with 80% a bit more nuteral with out the distinct flavor but one hell've good buzz. I guess it's all what you are after. You mentioned better then what you could buy.........that rig you have will do that the first time around, but welcome to the hobby........a little used to do it til a little got more and more......lol Happy hooching and welcome!!!!!!  "
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Rank: Junior Member Groups: Registered
Joined: 10/8/2012(UTC)
Posts: 31
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Thanks to everyone! I really appreciate the positive feedback. I will do my best to contribute back to the community as I learn more.
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