 Rank: Junior Member Groups: Registered
Joined: 10/12/2012(UTC)
Posts: 36
|
I'm looking for some info on making my own Parrot, anyone have a drawing for this?
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Junior Member Groups: Registered
Joined: 10/8/2012(UTC)
Posts: 30
|
I got all my stuff from www.pex.com 3/4"-2" copper reducer, 3/4" cap , 2" Cap with a short pc of 3/4" pipe and copper tubing from Lowes
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Junior Member Groups: Registered
Joined: 10/12/2012(UTC)
Posts: 36
|
Thanks Joseph, what I need to know is the part that goes straight up just a vent of some kind? Not the part where the tester sits.
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Junior Member Groups: Registered
Joined: 10/8/2012(UTC)
Posts: 30
|
not sure what you mean but... put the 3/4" cap on the end of the 3/4" pipe. put a hole on the near bottom of the 3/4" pipe for the entry liquid.....grind the "lip" off the inner2"-3/4" reducer so it will slide down the 3/4" pipe. you might have to polish the pipe and the inner of the 2"-3/4" reducer to get it to fit inside. then slide it in place. you will put a hole and solder the flexable copper in this piece for the outlet liquid. you will also want to find a flat piece of copper for the stand somewhere to hold it up if you like. I welded most of it but my tourch couldnt get the copper hot enough to weld the 2"-3/4" reducer so i had to bring it to a buddies to get him to use his torch. Im sorry but I do not have it here to snap a pic but i will next week.....I hope this helps...
|
|
|
|
|
|
 Rank: Advanced Member Groups: Registered
Joined: 7/14/2012(UTC)
Posts: 217
|
Originally Posted by: cornsqeezins  I'm looking for some info on making my own Parrot, anyone have a drawing for this? Don't have any plans but ebay has a good shot of one you otta be able to replicate.........
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Senior Member Groups: Registered, Moderator
Joined: 7/25/2009(UTC)
Posts: 2,209
|
Say i have a commercially made parrott. iT HAS A DESIGN FLAW THAI WOULD FIX IF I COULD MAKE MY OWN. yOU CAN SEE IT IN THE PHOTO BELOW. iT WAS 99 DOLLARS FROM BRAND x oops caps-- i have a messed up left hand and miss often  The entry point does not allow any of the liquid to remain in it. The liquid passes directly to the base of the hydrometer chamber. If there was just a very small amount of liquid held there, i could use a dropper to get quicker readings with my refractometer. None of the output would be mixed with other alcohol before effecting the prof and trails hydrometer. The wire going into the boileris a temperature sensor that slides into a thermowell that i installed a couple of years back. I rarely use this boiler any more sinc i have a BH 8 gallon with a large removable top. The boiler now has a hot water heater element in it. The Stainless steel was so thin that the welders barely got the coupling welded on.
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Junior Member Groups: Registered
Joined: 10/12/2012(UTC)
Posts: 36
|
Originally Posted by: joseph9936 not sure what you mean but... put the 3/4" cap on the end of the 3/4" pipe. put a hole on the near bottom of the 3/4" pipe for the entry liquid.....grind the "lip" off the inner2"-3/4" reducer so it will slide down the 3/4" pipe. you might have to polish the pipe and the inner of the 2"-3/4" reducer to get it to fit inside. then slide it in place. you will put a hole and solder the flexable copper in this piece for the outlet liquid. you will also want to find a flat piece of copper for the stand somewhere to hold it up if you like. I welded most of it but my tourch couldnt get the copper hot enough to weld the 2"-3/4" reducer so i had to bring it to a buddies to get him to use his torch. Im sorry but I do not have it here to snap a pic but i will next week.....I hope this helps... Thanks again Joseph. Looking forward to your photo.
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Junior Member Groups: Registered
Joined: 10/12/2012(UTC)
Posts: 36
|
Thanks Scotty, that helps. The one I was looking at buying was from Hillbilly Stills. A well made product for sure, I just like making my own things. They have an extra pipe with a larger fitting on the end going straight up. I didn't know what it's function was. I'm going to adapt it to my pot still for taking readings .[ATTACH=CONFIG]578[/ATTACH] cornsqeezins attached the following image(s):  MY STILL.jpg (71kb) downloaded 3 time(s).You cannot view/download attachments. Try to login or register.
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Senior Member Groups: Registered
Joined: 1/24/2012(UTC)
Posts: 630
Thanks: 1 times
Was thanked: 13 time(s) in 13 post(s)
|
hi Scotty, that looks like a 3" column. Does one 1500w element run that or do you have a bigger element
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Junior Member Groups: Registered
Joined: 10/12/2012(UTC)
Posts: 36
|
Originally Posted by: scotty Say i have a commercially made parrott. iT HAS A DESIGN FLAW THAI WOULD FIX IF I COULD MAKE MY OWN. yOU CAN SEE IT IN THE PHOTO BELOW. iT WAS 99 DOLLARS FROM BRAND x oops caps-- i have a messed up left hand and miss often The entry point does not allow any of the liquid to remain in it. The liquid passes directly to the base of the hydrometer chamber. If there was just a very small amount of liquid held there, i could use a dropper to get quicker readings with my refractometer. None of the output would be mixed with other alcohol before effecting the prof and trails hydrometer. The wire going into the boileris a temperature sensor that slides into a thermowell that i installed a couple of years back. I rarely use this boiler any more sinc i have a BH 8 gallon with a large removable top. The boiler now has a hot water heater element in it. The Stainless steel was so thin that the welders barely got the coupling welded on.[/QUOTE/ The inner piece where the tester sits inside of, how is that supported?
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Senior Member Groups: Registered, Moderator
Joined: 7/25/2009(UTC)
Posts: 2,209
|
"In the photo i am using a 6 gallon boiler and a 1500 watt hotplate that has been bypassed. It works fine. Later i purchased the BH 8 gallon and installed a 6 kw element in itand in the 6 gallon also..
I have both 120 1nd220 power available where i run the still. Starting at 220 to heat up, i switch to 120 when the temperature starts to rise. A6KW 220 volt element can be run at 120 volts. At the 120 volts, the element becomes a 1500 watt element which i have to use a router control to set the 120 volts back to about 80% to maintain my slow drip."
|
|
|
|
|
|
 Rank: Newbie Groups: Registered
Joined: 1/13/2013(UTC)
Posts: 9
Thanks: 6 times
|
"This is the one I built. Works well. [ATTACH=CONFIG]693[/ATTACH]" Crypt attached the following image(s): parrot.jpg (237kb) downloaded 5 time(s).You cannot view/download attachments. Try to login or register.
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Senior Member Groups: Registered
Joined: 9/14/2012(UTC)
Posts: 515
|
Originally Posted by: Crypt This is the one I built. Works well.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]693[/ATTACH] Nice looking parrot. What is the overall height? Maddawgs
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Newbie Groups: Registered
Joined: 1/13/2013(UTC)
Posts: 9
Thanks: 6 times
|
A little over 13" tall. The inner 3/4" pipe is 12" tall. Once the bottom coupling was added and then the top coupling reducer it came out a little over 13" tall. The bottom coupling I soldered closed, loaded it up with ball bearings and then soldered the 3/4" capped pipe into it. It needed it for stability. The 3/8" 90's I used for feet were not enough for weight/stability by themselves.
|
|
|
|
|
|
Forum Jump
You cannot post new topics in this forum.
You cannot reply to topics in this forum.
You cannot delete your posts in this forum.
You cannot edit your posts in this forum.
You cannot create polls in this forum.
You cannot vote in polls in this forum.
