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#1 Posted : Tuesday, January 02, 2007 9:13:37 AM(UTC)
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I'll use a hot plate for heating source to my distiller, but how hot should the plate be? Shall I give it max power when I'm distilling?
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#2 Posted : Wednesday, January 03, 2007 8:23:01 AM(UTC)
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[The topics of 'heating the distiller' and 'putting the distiller together'; sounds like a New Years resolution should be made to stop drinking. I always thought the still was the unit making the booze and the distiller was the person using the still. Maybe I'm wrong; wouldn't be the first time.
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#3 Posted : Wednesday, January 03, 2007 9:41:20 AM(UTC)
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Niels:

I believe a 1500W hot plate will do the trick for you. They come with a knob for adjusting your heat temp. I use a converted keg for my boiler, you can see how I set it up at http://elricko.741.com/ if you are interested.

You can pick up the hotplate at Brewhaus, Mile-Hi, or Ebay although you never know the quality from Ebay. You would give it max power until you are up to temp then turn it down so that the distillant drips out.
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#4 Posted : Thursday, January 04, 2007 2:51:08 AM(UTC)
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have been waiting for the hot plate answer!!! thank you. Please advise about the cooling water. I have been able to adjust both the plate and the water to maintain a solid 172 degrees. in fact i shut the unit down when there is barely a drop coming out,after several hours,. I cannot tell if there is a temp. spike indicating i have entered tails? cooling water is warm by that time, about 83-85 degrees. I throw away the first portion of output,turbo sugar wash,. the product is clear, odorous, and tests out at 175/87.5. I am thinking that i could shut the unit down sooner to avoid the tails/oder? any thoughts? thanks, stephen
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#5 Posted : Thursday, January 04, 2007 7:53:00 AM(UTC)
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Stephen:

To keep your cooling water cool try freezing some 2ltr coke bottles full of water in the freezer then as the water temp goes up toss a bottle in it. As it thaws throw another in and put the first one back in the freezer. I usually keep about 6 at the ready. How do you have your water set up?

When you say you throw out your first protion do you mean your foreshots?

I wouldn't 'avoid' tails. When I start getting that burnt/acrid smell I collect in a seperate jar and toss it into my next batch. There is still a lot of good hooch in there.

As far as the drip rate, I guess it depends on how pure you want your hooch. If I reduce it to one or two drops per second I end up with about 96%. If I go to 4 drops per second I get 92%. If I am making netural I shoot for the higher rate but if I am shooting for, say rum, I go for 89% to 92% to get the flavor.

Does this help?
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#6 Posted : Thursday, January 04, 2007 9:04:31 AM(UTC)
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Elricko:
About the cooling system: Is one 20 gallon bucket enough to cool down the water or do you need a freezer??
I have a posibillity to buy a pump wich pump with about 1100 GPH, but I can't chance the level on it. Will that work???
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#7 Posted : Thursday, January 04, 2007 9:25:01 AM(UTC)
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Elricko, On the cooling issue. i will be converting over to your set up....however prior, i was using milk jugs/frozen, and dumped them into the cooler, a cooler which is probably too small,.....once the temp would creep up to the 172 mark i would start the water on a low flow, adjust the temp down on the 1500 watt hotplate...i would never have to really adjust the water flow, but safe to say it was not blowing and going,water through the cooling lines,. i think what i need to do is get the temp up, put the water on almost full flow and adjust the temp on the plate up to hold at 172? I do throw out a small portion of the foreshoots, although i have read that using the turbo sugar wash/reflux it is not necessary.....i will try anything to avoid the 'smell'...Another thing i will also implement is how the column is stuffed. i was using one piece of copper and draping it inside the unit. i will cut it into 6 five inch sections, wade it and insert it? do you think that maybe an issue with smell as well? I will be running a rum this weekend. How do you adjust you drip rate, combo of cooling water and temp? or do you leave the temp alone and regulate via water? appreciate you and the forum's patience, advice and imput. peace. stephen
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#8 Posted : Friday, January 05, 2007 1:57:52 AM(UTC)
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Niels:

a 20 gallon bucket is more than enough. I use about 6 or 7 gallons total. And yes, the 1100 GPH will work fine. No problems there. If you want to see how I have mine set up go to:
http://tvbeer.com/cool1.htm

Stephen:

I have to be honest with you, I have adjusted my water flow at times, but it is very very very seldom. 99% of the time I just set it at max and let it flow. I do all of my temp adjustments with my rheostat. As soon as I see the first drip I hit the water switch and start adjusting the rheostat. I use a 1500W dimmer switch that has a slider and over time I have learned exactly where to drop the slider to bring the temp where I want, 78dC. Once that is set I just let it run. How many milk jugs do you have at the ready? I think the low flow may cause your water to get warmer. The longer the water stays in the column and condenser the hotter it gets. Keep it at a high flow. Milk jugs are a good idea, I just don't have room in my freezer for too many of those.

I have read the same things that say you don't have to toss the foreshots, but hey we're only talking 50 ml. Why take the chance? I toss the first 50 ml and collect the next 100 ml and throw that into my tails. Like you I can't stand that smell so I keep as low a temp on my heating coils as possible, keep a strong water flow, after three quarts I monitor it pretty close and switch to tails at the first traces of that smell.

As for the column I use the one that breaks into two pieces so you can use it as a fractioning or a pot still. I put copper in the bottom of the bottom piece, then put in rashing rings to within an inch of the top then put in more copper. Then I attach the top half and fill with rashing rings up to the top of where the two cross cooling pipes go through the column then put more copper mesh to fill to where the condenser comes out. Does that make sense? Anyway, make sure you really clean your copper after you use it. Don't just boil it, soak it in vinegar water. Some of that smell could come from copper not fully cleaned.

Good luck on your rum. I enjoyed mine a bit too much yesterday but that's okay.

Cheers!
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#9 Posted : Sunday, January 07, 2007 6:47:37 AM(UTC)
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Elricho:
I have been watching your thread and I really like the way you set up the beer keg with the hot water heater elements. I was wondering though, when you use a keg 1st. of all are most kegs stainless? and also how much or what is involved in using the keg? What I mean is I have a 3' Stainless column from Brewhaus,would this be ok and what needs to be done to attach it?
Thanks Jim
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#10 Posted : Sunday, January 07, 2007 2:23:32 PM(UTC)
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Hello Cooker,

I also use a 3' column, mine from brewhaus, and I could't be happier. I later ordered from them a 2' X 3' reducer and clanp and gasket, to fit to my half keg. I bought the High capacity unit to save time, and still attain quality. The use of the keg increases both qualities. However, it takes a lot of heat, and it has to be controlled at various points, so I use propane, and from all I've read process start to finish, in half the time. Water issue is magnified with this unit, so would consider Elricko's newest version of cooling, with more ice than he recommends.

This column kickes ass, if you have plenty of cold water. I would recommend you purchase the 2 valved splitter valves to adjust condenser flow, and reflux flow- will save you energy, and time.

As you get more familiar with your still-column, you will appreciate all the more
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#11 Posted : Sunday, January 07, 2007 3:30:32 PM(UTC)
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Cooker:

As John says, the 3' works perfectly with a keg. Almost every keg is stainless, as a matter of fact I don't think I've ever seen one that wasn't but some have a rubber covering around them. Those would be reather difficult to work with I would think.

Attached is a picture of my friend's unit which uses a 3' column that he got from Mile-Hi. Look at the bottom and you will see the reducer.
UserPostedImage

if you have read this stream you will have seen how my water setup is. It will work great with your column.

Get a keg and have fun!

Cheers
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#12 Posted : Saturday, January 13, 2007 6:50:12 AM(UTC)
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Elricko:
I was looking at your pics. on how to convert the beer keg. I have a couple questions if you don't mind. 1st. Are the bushings called 1/2 bushings? Also what size is it that is needed for the water heater elements? Also is the thread for the elements a pipe thread?
Thanks Jim
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#13 Posted : Saturday, January 13, 2007 7:34:55 AM(UTC)
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Jim:

Yes they are 'half couplings' and use a standard 1' thread. Mine came from McJunkin Inc. but I see where http://www.mcmaster.com/ has them for like $8. I got the coils at Home Depot for $8 each also.
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#14 Posted : Monday, January 15, 2007 3:03:47 AM(UTC)
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Elricko:
I have another question about the 1/2 couplings. I found a place here in town that has the stainless couplings. They said they are rated at 150 psi. I would think this is more than enough.Would you say this is within the working range? The plumbing supply said that residential water heaters are 3/4'. I would probably just take an element with me to make sure. Just to let you know the fittings are less than $3 each,.
Thanks Jim
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#15 Posted : Saturday, January 20, 2007 1:06:12 AM(UTC)
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Jim:

Sorry it's taken a bit to get back to you but I was out of town for a week.

Three bucks is quite a deal. I would buy several extra and put them away for future projects. Just make sure they are stainless steel. 150 psi shouldn't be any problem as there isn't any pressure problems related to this activity. I agree the best thing to do is to take the element with you and make sure it screws into the coupling. Mine takes 1' ID. Let me know how this works out for you.

Cheers.
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#16 Posted : Monday, January 22, 2007 10:35:06 AM(UTC)
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Elricko:
I have another question, sorry just trying to get everything together. The dimmer you said is a 1000 watt. You said that the bottom element is 1500 watts. I am assuming that the reason for using the 1000 watt switch is that you don't actually run the lower element at full capacity so it isn't necessary to have a 1500 watt switch. Am I correct?
Thanks Jim
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#17 Posted : Monday, January 22, 2007 2:45:42 PM(UTC)
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Jim

Yikes!!! Did I say a 1000W dimmer??? I don't know where I ,may have accidentally, said that but

DON'T USE A 1000W DIMMER with a 1500W coil!!!!

It will burn up. I use a Lutron 1500W I got off Ebay for $25.

Where did you see where I wrote 1000W? I need to go back and correct that.

Thanks,
Elricko
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#18 Posted : Monday, January 22, 2007 9:00:24 PM(UTC)
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i use an electric motor controller i purchased from w.w. grainger...seems to work great for me...and less then $25
thanks, scott from texas
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#19 Posted : Tuesday, January 23, 2007 1:03:27 AM(UTC)
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Elricko:
I went back and looked again. I don't know where I got the 1000 watt dimmer from. My mistake, sorry. I guess it was a good idea I questioned it though.
Thanks Jim
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#20 Posted : Friday, February 02, 2007 1:34:00 AM(UTC)
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Elricko
I have almost everything together, thanks for being so helpful. I wanted to ask you something else, what a surprise huh. I know the kegs will still have pressure in them, my 1st question is, can I just leave the tap open to relieve the pressure or what? As far as the fitting on the top from what I understand there is a valve involved, I know there is an adapter to attatch the column but what do I need to do before I can do this? And last of all ,at lest for now, when I weld the couplings in are they inset slightly or flush to the outside of the keg. Sorry to be a pain but I don't want to mess it up. As far as the elements, does it matter say on the 4500 watt whether I use the longer say 14'' or the shorter sort of double type,that is a 5500 as far as efficiency?
Thanks Jim
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