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Is carbon filtration realy necessary for your standard sugar water prestige turbo mash, coming off at 95% and dilluted with distilled water? Also, would the extra quaulity be less noticable when converting to fruity shots or liqueurs like sambuca, instead of drinking vodka?
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Carbon filtration is really popular in New Zealand and northern europe where they use all kinds of stuff in their stills that North American tradition tends to strongly discourage. I see stills made from electric hot water heaters, or plastic boilers with aluminum submersible elements, all kinds of stuff that an old time southern moonshiner would tell you is a bad idea at the very least, but mostly it seems that the product these folks are coming up with is really quite good. ,of course they all crabon filter, I suspect that if you are using any metals other than copper and stainless steel in your still you'd be stupid not to carbon filter. If your wash is clean and well processed and your still is properly made and you catch a solid middle run with a healthy margin for heads and tails I don't think carbon will make a palatable improvement in your product. Carbon filtering can improve product made with all kinds of flawed processes... but it can't be relied upon to fix wrecked runs ,burnt mash, flooded column etc, or to de-toxify stuff from bad stills ,like the one I saw that had a car air conditioner radiator for a condenser,. I guess it depends on your goal, if you are interested in perfecting a craft for your personal improvement and satisfaction you really shouldn't need to use carbon once you learn what you are doing. If you are looking to crank out some cheap ethanol... well even then, activated carbon isn't cheap.
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The decision to carbon filter is entirely a personal one...if you like the smell and taste its not required...you may want to try a double or even a triple distill,after diluting to 40-50% with ,I use distilled water, water.
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how do you know when the fermintation process is complete, of sugar crack corn yeast and water. thank you
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Thank you 'Pocheen' I tried your suggestion for a 'Brita' filter with the product from my new 'Amazing Still' and this has gotta be the best uh, 'tonic' I ever tasted! The simple Brita filter does a great job cleaning up even my 'corn,maize for all you other guys,likker' so that it is very smooth. Thanks Pocheen, Youre right on with this stuff. 'Spirit Maker'
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when using bakers yeast in the fermintation process what should your hydrometer reading be to know that it is ready to distill
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better yet how do you read a hydrometer
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DENNIS IF USING BAERS YEATS DUMP AS MUCH AS YOU HAVE IN THERE AND LET SIT AS LONG AS YOU CAN LET THE CURIOSITY GET TO YOU. THE HYDROMETER IS SET IN A VESSEL AND READ AT EYESITE RECORD THE LEVEL AND THAN THE LEVEL IT IS AT BEFORE THE DISTILLATION. IF YOU WANT TO NOW THE AMOUNT OF ALCOHOL IS IN THER USE THE HOMEDESTILLER SITE IT HAS CALCULATORS TO DO THIS CONVERSION
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I have run my first two 5 gallon batches that came out 95 and 90 proof respectively. I read online how to use carbon filtration with the long pvc tube as described above and followed the directions exactly. The resulting brew was very smooth at first, but had a lingering after-taste. I'm thinking that the taste is from my rubber seal on my valved reflux still. Where can I find food grade rubber to make a gasket?
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I have run my first two 5 gallon batches that came out 95 and 90 proof respectively. I read online how to use carbon filtration with the long pvc tube as described above and followed the directions exactly. The resulting brew was very smooth at first, but had a lingering after-taste. I'm thinking that the taste is from my rubber seal on my valved reflux still. Where can I find food grade rubber to make a gasket?
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Thanks a million for all the information and comments. Since I asked the original question I have learned a lot. The most important points I can see has already been learned from most of you. 1st, distill slowly - NEVER let the temp indicator go over 177 degrees. My first batch ,the one that had the bad aftertaste, had fusil oils or 'tails' in it. On my last batch I had 2 five gallon pails of mash. I tried corn with 10 lbs disolved sugar and Turbo 48 yeast. One batch quit ferminting early, the other settled out 20% alcohol. I distilled the bad batch first, and it boiled up the tower. Messed everything up. I saved all I could and poured it into the second batch, cleaned the tower very well, and got 2 liters of 95% from the second batch. I also took the advice given previously and collected only about 1/2 pt. at a time. After collecting a small amount once I had to readjust the fire. I got it a little too hot. I went in the house for a very short time and when I returned the temp was at 181 degrees and the product was coming out in a stream. I saved it and stopped the distilling when the temp bounced between 166/167. Results: excellent batch, no aftertaste and I'm not sure if I even need to charcoal filter. If you want more information on charcoal filterint, read Gert Strand's 'Activated Carbon For Purivication of Alcohol'. It was very educational for me. Thanks again for all the help. Some of you are light years ahead of me, but with practice and this forum, hopefully I will catch up.
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HOW DO WE MAKE A VODKA STILL ,BACKYARD JOB,?
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Hello Rick and everyone. I have the 3' SS High Capacity unit and now want a good filter. I just ordered carbon yesterday and my question is can I invert my column upside down, toss some cotton down against the coils to hold the carbon and use this as a filter, or would 2' pvc be better? I like the SS idea though. And Rick, if this is a good column idea for filtering, perhaps,then you ought to consider supplieng a ss bucket with a tri-clamp fitting on the bottom to attach to the column?
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We considered this previously, but the cost would be higher than our filter system, which is made of a high chemical tolerant plastic ,much better than PVC,. This makes it tough to justify for the customer.
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Very detailed, congrats!<center><table border=1><tr><td> craps.html (8.5 k)</td></tr></table></center>
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