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Im thinking of replacing my variac and router control with this
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a SSR KR2040AX ----It will have a heat sink too. Ill add more info to this post in a bit.  It looks like it will easily cover the 120 to 240 volt ranges. and if the pot varies the voltage output it's a great thing and extra small. Ill add it as a permanant control on my HLT and mash tun. Being that i'm a retired grocer, I dont have experience with these devices so ill be guessing unless someone knows how it can be used.
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Hi Scotty, I don't know much about that but here is a link that may help out. http://www.homebrewtalk....ssr-boil-control-310622/
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"Thanks. I had already read that and it just confused me more. Illwait to test it myself.
----------------- POOF!!!! lol lol"
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Ive been doing research((GOOGLE)) i think it will replace the RSC and it handles 40 amps. I'll bread board it when i get it and report-- If it works it will easily fit into a small box
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Well I hope it works as it would be an interesting addition.
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Bushey--ill bench check it when i get it. I like it because it looks like it might work for both 120 and 240 volts. my variac weighs about 15 pounds-6+ kilos i believe and only works on 120 volts. The 20 amp router speed control was about $40 or more and its only good for 120 volts. I stumbled across this combo while browsing solid state relays on ebay. The prices on solid state relays has really come down.
I have never been able to find a SSR that is double pole double throw. So my mechanical relay that i use to switch the applied voltage to my 220 volt heat element is here to stay. :)
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BTW its just under 23 dollars delivered and i believe it will work for 120 or 240. the actual full range that it will vary is 24 to 280 volts.
Meaning thar you can us it with any voltage from 24 vlts to 280 volts and it will vary it to any percentage of that voltage that you desire.
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scotty - if you like that & if your variac is good for 240v & you want to sell it please let me know
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Originally Posted by: ratflinger  scotty - if you like that & if your variac is good for 240v & you want to sell it please let me know 120 volt variac but i still use it when distilling-- this new gizmo is intended fo the TUN and HLT
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i bought it on ebay un wired for $40-- i added the volt and ammeter and the cords-- it was as is un tested from a hams estate, 
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Did you get the parts and try it out? If so how does it work,I would like to build one if it does...
Thanks Jack
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Originally Posted by: captinjack Did you get the parts and try it out? If so how dose it work,I would like to build one if it does...
Thanks Jack Jack I have the gizmo on my work bench. I put a piece of 3/4 inch plywood out to use as a breadboard- i also piled up some pieces of wire and my box of misc connectors. I have an in line ammeter with a matching shunt somewhere. Thanks for reminding me-- ill try to start on it today weather permitting. i work on my porch :)
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Rank: Senior Member Groups: Registered, Moderator
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Jack
I just put new batterys in my digital camera. I also located the ammeter and shunt- Its still dark out but if the weather gets a bit warm today ill start on breadboarding the gadjet.. If it does what we hope it does, it will obsolete RSCs and as a bonus it works on 220 as well as 110.
I will use a space heater to test it on 110 but i may have to jerry rig one of the still heater elements for a 220 test.
We shal see. I dont remember how many amps the meter will be able to tolerate.
Ill post pictures of the junk pile befor the assembly begins-- The pile of parts is a bit funny.:)
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"Its still too cold out but these are some parts  "
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Scotty, Thanks for the up date and pic. I am new to all this and just reading and starting out, in previous post you said there is a heat sink is that built on the back of the ssr or is there a separate one? also you mentioned you are using this gismo for TUN and HTL can you clue me in on what that stands for.... I would intend to use it for distilling...
Thanks Jack
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Rank: Senior Member Groups: Registered, Moderator
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The heat sink is a separate finned item that will be bolted to the back of that blue thing. HLT is a hot liquor tank--LIQUOR= water lol See the picture below It just heats water automatically to 170 degrees and holds it  The highest pot is the HLT The TUN is short for MASH TUN-- Ready for the high tech language now??? TUN = POT The pot that we mash our grain in. This item below is one of the places i want to add this current limiting gizmo to if it works 
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Rank: Senior Member Groups: Registered, Moderator
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I would use the gadjet to control the heat of the boiler when distilling--wee now use a SSR, a variac or just unplug elements.
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-------ITS FINALLY GOING TO BE OVER 70 F. TODAY
I FOUND A VOLT METER BUT I CANT FIND THE HEAT SINK.
I dont intend to do more than see if the setup varies the current to a small electric space heater. I look foreward to getting this test
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Rank: Advanced Member Groups: Registered
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Scotty
Thats great, I hope it works because I already went ahead and purchased the SSR KR2040AX on ebay, it was like $18.00 shipped the same set-up you have. I am also getting a heat sink and a amp meter, but it didn't say anything about a shunt. I don't even know what that is can you clue me in on that one. I hope it all goes well and doesn't just go POOOF and SMOKE lol.
Thanks Jack
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Originally Posted by: captinjack Scotty
Thats great, I hope it works because I already went ahead and purchased the SSR KR2040AX on ebay, it was like $18.00 shipped the same set-up you have. I am also getting a heat sink and a amp meter, but it didn't say anything about a shunt. I don't even know what that is can you clue me in on that one. I hope it all goes well and doesn't just go POOOF and SMOKE lol.
Thanks Jack Some meters are internally shunted - but if your meter is not internally shunted you will cook it.  The shunt large terminals go in series with one hot line in 220 or just the black wire in 110. The meter is then hooked up to the 2 small terminals. Please post the link for the meter you purchased so a few of us can try to determine how it should be hooked in line. BTW i am really sure that the gizmo will work but the breadboard is the only way not to make a fool out of us.
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Im thinking of replacing my variac and router control with this
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