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If you have a VOM---volt ohm meter. set it on ohms. I guess you will use the 1X scale and when it is not plugged into the 120 volts, place the probes one on each of the heat element terminals to measure how many ohms of resistance the element has. my guess it is around 12 ohms of resistance.
I have cooked a very expensive meter by measuring ohms when the juice was on. LOL
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"Scotty, I have measured the ohms of a water heating element but not for learning what amps it takes to burn it up.Hahahahah
I measure the -resistance- in the ohms setting and that tells me if what I'm testing has continuity!! Now I'm not an electrician but it was explained to me in a way that if something like a element was tested in the ohms fashion it would tell you if you have continuity and if the element was no good (no continuity no elec. flow). Before coming back to the forum I did test a heating element and you are right it --ohmed out-- at 12.5 ohms ( I think it was saying amps) anyway thx for asking and making my brain kick in.
So yes I have tested the ohms of my elements (and the restistance) but did'nt know what info other than electric flow I could get from the reading."
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Rank: Senior Member Groups: Registered, Moderator
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If you have trouble with the element, loss of continuity could mean a burned element BUT BUT BUT if you get a very high resistance the lement could be shorted sooo knowing the resistance can help you if you encounter trouble.
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Scotty, a dumb question here. The watts divided by volts gives the amps right? I just don't understand why you divide the 4500 by 4 instead of 2 to get the watts since it is a 220 element plugged 110. Is there a formula somewhere? Thanx
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The result of supplying a 220 volt element with 120 volts is 1/4 the rated power. Ill see if i have the info to post in a bit
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Please look in the tech support section-- I think i walked through the formulas there.
(( LOOK HERE)) in---Some information on electric water heater elements
Please ask more questions if you need to. You will force me to think if i have the understanding :)
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thanx I found it. Love the math behind it
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Originally Posted by: dieselduo  thanx I found it. Love the math behind it I believe it should be a must read foreveryone going to any electric heating elements:)
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" Originally Posted by: heeler Scotty, I have measured the ohms of a water heating element but not for learning what amps it takes to burn it up.Hahahahah
I measure the -resistance- in the ohms setting and that tells me if what I'm testing has continuity!! Now I'm not an electrician but it was explained to me in a way that if something like a element was tested in the ohms fashion it would tell you if you have continuity and if the element was no good (no continuity no elec. flow). Before coming back to the forum I did test a heating element and you are right it --ohmed out-- at 12.5 ohms ( I think it was saying amps) anyway thx for asking and making my brain kick in.
So yes I have tested the ohms of my elements (and the restistance) but did'nt know what info other than electric flow I could get from the reading. Scotty this is what I ment by ohming it out....the setting is on ohms and the reading is, well I think a ohms resistance number but I'm not sure...it cant be amps becasue its not flowing any amps?? Or does the unit itself produce voltage for that??   Thats just an old element that I had laying around as a backup for the water heater. Its still good from the look of the meter."
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you did it correctly--thats ohming out something---- or testing resistance. you need a clamp on merer to test for current/amps/ the clamp on meter is --placed over one of the wires and a magnetic field caused by the current/amps flow causes the meter to give a reading---dont try it with that meter. The amps scale is for minute current readings.
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[img]http://imageserver.grainger.com/is/image/Grainger/2FTY8_AS01?$productdetail$[/img]
here is a typical clamp on ammeter design used for higher amperages
If you had a cord with a plug on the end you could have taken the reading at the plug prongs---the cord would have to be extremely long to show any resistance/ohms
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well this meter has the --jaws-- that you clamp around one wire and then center it, you can almost see the lever for the jaws....thats how you get a amp flow reading with this meter, you just change the setting to the A which of course is the amp setting. I'm not a electrician but I wanted one that would last and be worth having....anyway thx for the imput.
oh i didnt realise it was a commercial meter---great :)
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Rank: Senior Member Groups: Registered, Moderator
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" Originally Posted by: scotty [img]http://imageserver.grainger.com/is/image/Grainger/2FTY8_AS01?$productdetail$[/img]
here is a typical clamp on ammeter design used for higher amperages
If you had a cord with a plug on the end you could have taken the reading at the plug prongs---the cord would have to be extremely long to show any resistance/ohms yep mine is very similar....."
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that is a 15 amp, does it blow the fuse ever, and what can I do to stop blowing the fuse?
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Sorry, I was referring to Heelers pic on page two...
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Originally Posted by: hooksetz Sorry, I was referring to Heelers pic on page two... I'm not sure of your question....what fuse???? But no I've never blown a fuse because of using this configuration! I'll try to be more I depth if you explain further.....sorry man!!
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heeler I was talking about the little 15 amp glass one in the RSC on the top left corner, but I got it now, after I grounded the darn thing it aint happened again.....kinda funny though
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Rank: Senior Member Groups: Registered, Moderator
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oh yeah I c it now, and nope never had a problem...........glad you gottit worked out.
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Rank: Junior Member Groups: Registered
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wow, such an easy set up once you get it going, almost makes the old ways of heating up a batch seem pretty prehistoric
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