Rank: Junior Member Groups: Registered
Joined: 11/27/2012(UTC) Posts: 32
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This is my first time trying to make my first shine! Ive always been interested and just now starting to get into it. My mom always told me stories about my great grandpa and his shine and how he never got caught because he sold it to the mayor. My uncle always had some when we would go visit him, but he passed away unexpectedly and I never got his recipe. But anyway here is the mash recipe that I have working now. (got it off of youtube) 2.5 gal water, 4lbs sugar, 2.5lbs corn meal (white), and 2 packets (7g.) of Red Star active dry yeast (thats all I could find at the time) I have turbo yeast on the way. It says to let sit for 7 days but since I am not using Highly active yeast how will I know when it is ready to run? And will this recipe work anyway?
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Rank: Senior Member Groups: Registered
Joined: 1/12/2012(UTC) Posts: 804
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"Hi wv,
Welcome to the forum!
I think your recipe should work just fine with the Red Star. You may need some nutrients for the yeast, but it seems fine.
Get yourself a hydrometer so you can measure the gravity and know when it's finished. Until then, just let it sit until it stops bubbling, then rack it and let it clear some. When it's clear or when it tastes nice and dry you can run it.
Regards, --JB"
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Rank: Advanced Member Groups: Registered
Joined: 3/1/2012(UTC) Posts: 198
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"The corn meal should supply all the nutrients needed for the yeast. Nutrients are generally only required on sugar washes with no grain.
Hydrometer is definately the way to go but barring that once it stops bubbling and you are only getting the occasionaly burble you can taste it. If it no longer tastes sweet you are good to go. Set it some place cold(not freezing obviously) over night and the yeast will settle out. At that point you can siphon off the wash down to the yeast bed and run it.
A lot of guys on here will advocate trying to get the clearest wash possible before running it. Im not taking away from anyones technique but thats not generally accepted distilling process."
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Rank: Junior Member Groups: Registered
Joined: 11/27/2012(UTC) Posts: 32
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do I need to do anything with the foam on top before I run it through the still?
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Rank: Advanced Member Groups: Registered
Joined: 3/1/2012(UTC) Posts: 198
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The yeast head (foam) breaking up is your first indication that your ferment is close to done. So there should be no foam head left when you go to distill.
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Rank: Senior Member Groups: Registered
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Originally Posted by: ohyeahyeah A lot of guys on here will advocate trying to get the clearest wash possible before running it. Im not taking away from anyones technique but thats not generally accepted distilling process. Why isn't giving your wash some time to clear a generally accepted distilling process?
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Rank: Advanced Member Groups: Registered
Joined: 3/1/2012(UTC) Posts: 198
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Depends on what you consider "some time". But what in beer and wine making is known as second fermentation is not done in the distilling world(commercial production). Most mashes/beers/washes are 3-5 days then into the still.
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Rank: Senior Member Groups: Registered
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"I guess what I'm asking is: is the practice not used for economic reasons? That is, it's just not worth it from a commercial point of view? Or are there other reasons? Does it _improve_ flavor? ... unlikely. Or since the wash is being distilled, does it simply not matter?
I continue to read anecdotal statements on the web about yeast cells bursting in the boil and such ... but there's never a mention of why that would matter ... or what is actually being released into the boil, etc. ... not so long on the facts.
I'm not being argumentative here ... far from it ... just trying to understand if the commercial guys are just trying to save time and a few pennies on each gallon ... which at our scale is in the noise. So are we doing things that can, in fact, help improve quality since we're not subject to commercial pressures ... or just wasting our own time?"
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Rank: Advanced Member Groups: Registered
Joined: 7/1/2012(UTC) Posts: 162
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Gotta go with ohyeahyeah on this one. 7 days is plenty for that recipe. Nutrients are not needed in my opinion. What are you running for a still?
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Rank: Advanced Member Groups: Registered
Joined: 3/1/2012(UTC) Posts: 198
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First off i want to say anyone going to the lengths to produce the clearest wash possible who thinks they are getting a better end product then if they didn't im not going to dispute that. I havent tried their stuff and if you are happy with your process and what you are producing thats cool.
I don`t think its an economic thing for the commercial guys. The cost would be negligible to a large distillery. Once the equipment needed for second fermentation was purchased there would be no other incurred cost. The very first batch would take an extra week or whatever but after that its a production line and production would flow exactly the same. Once the beer was moved from first fermentor to second it gets filled again right away so production is continuous. A second point on the economic side it many of these companies spend a substantial amount of time and effort on filtering their finished distilled product. JD for example burns their own maple(though i hear not at their main facility anymore) to make their own charcoal for filtration. One artisian vodka maker filters their super premium vodka 1000 times(if i remember correctly) because they feel it gives it the cleanest flavour possible. If companies are willing to go to these extremes to produce a better product it seems only reasonable they would be williing to do the same on the before the still side.
Now from my own anecdotal experience i tried clearing solution a few times on sugar based washes. I even went so far as to borrow a wine filter machine and tried filtering a couple batches. I found no noticeable difference, no improvement whats so ever.
I have read the yeast exploding thing as well and can`t help but wonder why it would matter with yeast being such a heavy partical it seems unlikely to make it up the column. Also their are whiskey producers that distill on grain(steam jacketed stills with aggitators) and there is no way they are getting all the yeast out if any. A lot of whiskey producers also use a portion of backset for each batch and if cooking yeast was ruining the flavour wouldn`t this just compound the problem?
I don't claim to be an expert. Im no different then you, just a guy reading what i can, experimenting, thinking and trying to learn more about this great art. And to me as much as it is a science, it definately is an art.
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Rank: Senior Member Groups: Registered, Moderator Joined: 4/14/2010(UTC) Posts: 1,666
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"Well heres another way of looking at it....most of us use either gas burner under our pot or electric elements inside our boilers, I would bet that a really busy or unfiltered allgrain wash that was full of particulates would no dought leave some kind of burnt flavor if we put that in the boiler with internal elements. Most but prolly not all of the big boys use a steam jacket type boiler. And probably for the expedeincy of getting the wash or mash in the still as soon as possible. Whilst a cleaner type wash may indeed matter to those of us in the first situation the big boys prolly want everything left in the wash to get all the flavor they can get. I dont know if this is fact but it seems to make sense, the fastest turnover they can get is to ferment it and put it in the boiler ASAP, i.e. no secondary or filtering. anyway just my thinking...."
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Rank: Advanced Member Groups: Registered
Joined: 3/1/2012(UTC) Posts: 198
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Actually the "big boys"(jack daniels, jim beam, buffalo trace ect.) use continuous beer stipping column stills. They are huge towers with in the neighbourhood of 10 plus perforated plates. The beer is pumped in the top of the column above the first plate. The beer flows down the column from plate to plate and eventually out the waste drain at the bottom. To extract the alcohol steam(yes water vapour) is injected into the bottom of the tower. The steam percolates up through perforated plates changing from pure water steam to higher percentage alcohol vapour with every plate until it reaches the top of the still where it passes through an outtake pipe to the a giant condensor.
Again not to be arguementative but "fastest turnover" is not a concern in a production line. Once production begins it is continuous. An extra stage is not really a big concern. Bourbon rules call for 2 years of barrel aging. And yet jim beam and jack are both doing around 6 years on their cheapest bottled stuff.
Your point about internal heaters burning mash is well taken. I havent played with this style of heating but have read several places it is best suited to sugar washes and not all grain washes. As far as external heat you can have quite a bit of soild matter in your wash and not burn in my experience. Doing all grains i always get kind of a sludge sticking to the boiler after the run, but its never burned. This is straight from fermentor to boiler straining with a grain bag from the brew store. Once my grain bag split and i figured to hell with it and threw my wash in unstrained. That time it did burn and ruined the whole run. But again that was totally unstrained. I personally having done several all grains have never had burning with external heat with a strained uncleared wash. Maybe others experiences are different.
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Rank: Junior Member Groups: Registered
Joined: 11/27/2012(UTC) Posts: 32
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"http://www.ebay.com/itm/3G-ALCOHOL-HOME-BREW-MOONSHINE-WHISKEY-COPPER-STILL-/121029731723?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1c2def258b Here is the still that I have. Just started off cheap at first. Plan on upgrading real soon"
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Rank: Senior Member Groups: Registered
Joined: 1/27/2012(UTC) Posts: 526
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Bourbon can be aged for as little as 3 months. Straight Bourbon must be aged for at least 3 years and if under four years must be labled as such. That's American law. Blended Bourbon must be at least 51% Straight Bourbon but may also have neutal spirits, flavorings, and colorings added.
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Rank: Advanced Member Groups: Registered
Joined: 3/1/2012(UTC) Posts: 198
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Wikipedia says 2 years for straight bourbon. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bourbon_whiskey "Bourbon that meets the above requirements, has been aged for a minimum of two years, and does not have added coloring, flavoring, or other spirits may (but is not required to) be called straight bourbon" But that really wasn't my point. Buffalo Trace ages mininum 8 years but only ferment 3-5 days then straight in the stipping still. My point was why would they age years longer then required if they were trying to rush to market and yet skip a second ferment which would only add a week or so to production.
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Rank: Senior Member Groups: Registered
Joined: 1/12/2012(UTC) Posts: 804
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" Originally Posted by: wvrunner3204 Here is the still that I have. Just started off cheap at first. Plan on upgrading real soon Eric, Very best of heath and luck to you to enjoy your rig! Have you fired it up yet?"
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Rank: Senior Member Groups: Registered
Joined: 1/12/2012(UTC) Posts: 804
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Gentlemen, This is a great discussion ... I've enjoyed reading every word. But I'm wondering if we should continue on a different thread ... "To clear, or not to clear? That is the question!" ... so as not to distract from Eric's original post? I think the question I asked took us off-topic a bit ... or at least sideways a little. My apologies. --JB
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