logo                   
Welcome Guest! To enable all features please Login or Register.

Notification

Icon
Error

Login


Options
Go to last post Go to first unread
Offline scotty  
#1 Posted : Wednesday, December 12, 2012 1:08:46 AM(UTC)
scotty


Rank: Senior Member

Reputation:

Groups: Registered, Moderator
Joined: 7/25/2009(UTC)
Posts: 2,209

"This is the element that i want installed.
http://www.grainger.com/...Element-6FCA9?Pid=search


QUESTION???? What type of coupling needs to be installed. I've searched without finding anything.


-------------------------------------- HEEEELP!!!!!!"
Offline shovelhead91701  
#2 Posted : Wednesday, December 12, 2012 4:51:50 AM(UTC)
shovelhead91701


Rank: Junior Member

Reputation:

Groups: Registered
Joined: 11/10/2012(UTC)
Posts: 85

that element is for an application where it slides into a flat flange and uses the two o rings to seal into a machined cylinder and two bolts to hold it in. you would have to fabricate the mounting flange for it to work properly. I would pick a different type element, besides, that element style with the balewire would be a nightmare to clean up after use..... lots of nooks and crannies....
Offline JasperNewtonJack  
#3 Posted : Wednesday, December 12, 2012 5:32:03 AM(UTC)
JasperNewtonJack


Rank: Newbie

Reputation:

Groups: Registered
Joined: 12/11/2012(UTC)
Posts: 4

Scorching isn't a consideration in heating water. What about with this application? I'd think you'd be better off with a pair of $20 Camco 2963 5500 W / 240 V ultra low watt density heating elements. Note: The 2963 has a heat density of 50 W / sq.in.

Is anyone using a Camco 2963 in a Brewhaus 8 or 15 gallon kettle? I'm pretty sure the 2963 has a 1" NPSM (straight) fitting. I've seen the minimum tank diameter listed as both 14" and 15". I'm not sure which is more accurate. My 1" NPSM coupling is 3/4" deep. I'm sure you could get a longer coupling if necessary.
Offline scotty  
#4 Posted : Wednesday, December 12, 2012 7:20:20 AM(UTC)
scotty


Rank: Senior Member

Reputation:

Groups: Registered, Moderator
Joined: 7/25/2009(UTC)
Posts: 2,209

Good advice from both-- ill switch me idea to a 2 element boiler--standard parts are always more sensable.
Offline ratflinger  
#5 Posted : Monday, December 24, 2012 7:48:25 AM(UTC)
ratflinger


Rank: Advanced Member

Reputation:

Groups: Registered
Joined: 8/17/2008(UTC)
Posts: 424

I had Rick add a 2" tri-clamp fitting to a 15 gal kettle. I had an adapter from Hillbilly that fit a 2" with the proper threads in it for a WH element. Rick may have one by now - I haven't looked lately. I use a 5400w 240v element for heat up & then plug that into 120v when I get close to temp. I built an adapter with std 15a plug that went to a NEMA L6-30 receptacle, then I unplug from 240v & plug into the adapter for 120v & control my run with only water. For stripping I run the 120v wide open. The 240v, even on stripping, will overrun the kettle.
Users browsing this topic
Guest (3)
Forum Jump  
You cannot post new topics in this forum.
You cannot reply to topics in this forum.
You cannot delete your posts in this forum.
You cannot edit your posts in this forum.
You cannot create polls in this forum.
You cannot vote in polls in this forum.