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Im thinking of replacing my variac and router control with this
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[ Quote:QUOTE] The shunt large terminals go in series with one hot line in 220 or just the black wire in 110. The meter is then hooked up to the 2 small terminals. Please post the link for the meter you purchased so a few of us can try to determine how it should be hooked in line. BTW i am really sure that the gizmo will work but the breadboard is the only way not to make a fool out of us. Last edited by scotty; Today at 11:55 AM. here is a link to the meter I ordered. http://www.aliexpress.co...-shipping/706377330.html
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The breadboard partially done--- see the shunt 
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AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAHHHHHHHHHHAAAAAAAAAA
I see you are getting high tech.
You are safe. No shunt needed. the black donoughnut((torroidial i believ it is called) simply place it so the hot wire passes through it and the magnetic field generated around the wire will allow the doughnut to register the current. There should be two other wires for the volt meter installation. One to the black((110V)) and one to the white.
Nice looking meter you fancy ass
#$%$#
Oh in 110 volts setup, the black wire passes through the meter.
Why do i get the feeling you will have your stuff wired before i do lol lol
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boy this not being able to post links is a real pain
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Hey Scotty...I see since we've talked that you have done some research on this Idea that I was talking about...and have seen that you already have purchased the SSR .... and gonna try it out I hope it works out for ya. IOn my thread where we were talking I have posted a drawing of how to wire it ..hope it helps you...and this will work for both voltages ...I have it listed in the 220v drawing...and get the big heatsink that is square and has the cutout in the center for the SSR to fit perfect in it.
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Quote:
Why do i get the feeling you will have your stuff wired before i do lol lol Scotty, yea that's funny, I don't think so I'm going to need some help from you or others on here to get it wired up correctly. I want it to run it on 220 and I will be using a 4500 to 5500 watt element. I still need to get a box to put it all in and a proper switch of witch I am not sure what to use for that. I'm in no hurry though, I don't have my still ordered yet I'm still reading and learning and getting things ready for when I take the next step....
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that will be enjoyable-- lets get em both done soon--its warm in florida for a few days
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Originally Posted by: captinjack  Scotty, yea that's funny, I don't think so I'm going to need some help from you or others on here to get it wired up correctly. I want it to run it on 220 and I will be using a 4500 to 5500 watt element. I still need to get a box to put it all in and a proper switch of witch I am not sure what to use for that. I'm in no hurry though, I don't have my still ordered yet I'm still reading and learning and getting things ready for when I take the next step.... Are you talking about a switch to turn the power off and on?? On 220 you only need to break one line to stop the current flow-- For safety, it depends how exposed the other wires are and if the connection to the heater element are well insullated Otherwise a switch in one wire will shut the contraption off . I would however consider using a 220 volt breaker and mount it in your assembly box in some way. My electric panel is less than 2 feet from my recepticles which themselves are right next to my control unit or whatever we call it. You only need a 25 amp switch i guess 30 amps for safety 
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Jack its a simple wiring job-- i think this is correct. How about it JOHN JB [ATTACH=CONFIG]676[/ATTACH] Jack that shmoltzy digital meter of yours will replace the 2 i have in the drawing. The ssvr in the diagram is the closest whatever i could find in the art program but it's ok scotty attached the following image(s):  Variable-relay-220v-setup.png (13kb) downloaded 0 time(s).You cannot view/download attachments. Try to login or register.
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Scotty that seems easy enough,then just run the ground coming in to the switch and then out to the boiler? whats your opinion on adding a fan, do you think it's necessary or would help the ssvr keep cool like that other guy is talking about doing? were you able to breadboard it and test it on the heater yet...
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You said 220 volts both lines are hot 120v lines--- Niether one is a ground -- The third greenor whatever color is used wire is a separate thing. A heat sink probably is the smart thing and will be necessary -- a fan is always smart too.
By pass the whole thing with the green or third wire from 3rd terminal on the plug to 3rd terminal on the recepticle . its not a ground. Its called a grounding conductor for safety.
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breadboard almost done-- i had to run to wal mart--back to it right now.
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Yea I got that both lines are 110v to = 220v, I was just saying I would want to run the 3rd wire (green or whatever) in and out of the box and tie it to the green screw on the switch and onto the boiler. Does that sound correct?
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Here is a link to the heat sink that I'm getting. (and your rite about not being able to make it a real link, Whats up with that) After thinking about it I'm going to go ahead and add a cooling fan... http://www.ebay.com/itm/...&hash=item336f802872
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yes ground to the boiler Now let me tell you what not to do  My eyes are going soo i wired the ssvr in upside down. I put 110 volts across the terminals where the variable resistor was suposed to go. The photo shows the mistake. It smoked nicely. When i saw the mistake i corrected it. The thing worked once then died-- sorry but i screwed up the test.
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Oh no, sorry to here that Scotty, I'll have to be sure not to do that... In the pic on ebay it looks like the 3 and 4 terminal are for the variable resistor...
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It is clearly marked with a variable resistor symbol. I guess mt glaucome or over confidence got me. I wont re order till next month. Sorry i couldnt report.
You should have seen myface when smoke rose from the side where i made the wrong connection.
We used a hair dryer for the load.
I look foreward to hearing your results and to trying again next month.. It looks like it will do the job.
I have the remounting of the automatic voltage switcher to look foreward to.
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AHHHHH...... that stinks Bud! It is so easy to let the smoke out, but impossible to get it to go back in! 
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Originally Posted by: shovelhead91701 AHHHHH...... that stinks Bud! It is so easy to let the smoke out, but impossible to get it to go back in! I was hoping to be able to say to the group that we no longer need to switch voltage or use RSCs. But its up to captain jack for now. I'm boning butts for sausages for a few days
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I don't have any of my parts yet... I'll keep you posted when they all arrive...
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Im thinking of replacing my variac and router control with this
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