 Rank: Newbie Groups: Registered
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"I am going to place MPT heating elements into my 15 gallon kettle. I need some advise as to the best place to purchase the elements (Dallas, TX area), specifications (Watt Density, Stainless Steel cover, 110 or 220, etc. How do you regulate the amount of heat going into the kettle? Also, once the kettle is emptied do you remove the element when you wash out the kettle?
Thanks"
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 Rank: Senior Member Groups: Registered, Moderator
Joined: 7/25/2009(UTC)
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i always just use standard heating elements. I use 220 volt ones because i like to start on 220 and switch to 110.
At 110volts, the 220 volt element wattage is reduced to 25% of its rating and will last forever
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Rank: Senior Member Groups: Registered
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Have to agree with Scotty 220 would be the way to go if you have it available. If not then 110 will work. I use 2 110v 2000 watt elements and my 15 gallon heats up in just over 45 minutes. You can find standard elements on Amazon, Ebay, at Home depot and Lowes.
Maddawgs
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" Originally Posted by: Cleveland  I am going to place MPT heating elements into my 15 gallon kettle. I need some advise as to the best place to purchase the elements (Dallas, TX area), specifications (Watt Density, Stainless Steel cover, 110 or 220, etc. How do you regulate the amount of heat going into the kettle? Also, once the kettle is emptied do you remove the element when you wash out the kettle?
Thanks What is a MPT element?? A router speed controller is the item of choice for power regulation today. Of course that may change in the near future. As to the elements removal -- no need to remove them once they are installed. It really dosen't matter where you live there is a Lowes or HomeDepot or Ace hardware close by. Or ebay will deliver anything you order right to your door. As to element choice....any will do, SS is not really necassary."
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Rank: Advanced Member Groups: Registered
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Rank: Senior Member Groups: Registered, Moderator
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"Well if he's talking water heating elements he's gonna need female thread = female threaded SS coupling. You are right the elements have a male thread but he may be talking about something alltogether different.
But then again he may be talking about ((( NPT ))) = national pipe thread coupling and the element would screw into that after its welded on the boiler. Thats the standard coupling of choice in this application. Oh well hope he gets it figgered out."
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Rank: Senior Member Groups: Registered
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Originally Posted by: ohyeahyeah NPT fittings sell as MPT or FPT. Male Pipe Thread, or Female Pipe Thread. Wow, I must have lucked out, I didn't even know there was a difference. Had Rick install the npt's and just bought some elements off of Amazon. Luckily everything fit and worked. Did the 4 layers of pipe tape and no leaks. Maddawgs On my set up the npt's are female and the elements are male --I think
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Rank: Newbie Groups: Registered
Joined: 12/17/2012(UTC)
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I'm having Rick punch the hole and install the npt's and I'll purchase a standard 220 element(s). What about controlling the heat going into the kettle. You've got to use some type of control device. What do you suggest?
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Rank: Senior Member Groups: Registered, Moderator
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Think first if you want to run on 220 only you will need a variac capable of handling 220.
If you use 220 to heat up and switch applied voltage to 110 then a router speed controll will do. We are experimenting with a ssvr but i burned mine out by mis wiring it.
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Rank: Newbie Groups: Registered
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Will a router speed controller handle 220? If so, do you have any suggestions on make and model?
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 Rank: Junior Member Groups: Registered
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"There may be an expensive industrial control for use in a wood shaper etc.( My shaper has one)
My advice would be to switch both legs and use an inexpensive router control for the switch on one leg so that you can adjust it in 110 mode and just run full tilt boogy on 220 volt mode to heat up initially.
I was just informed by the guys that our shaper only has 2 speeds..... not variable controls..... so that option is out on 220v variable speed"
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Rank: Senior Member Groups: Registered, Moderator
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" Originally Posted by: Maddawgs Wow, I must have lucked out, I didn't even know there was a difference. Had Rick install the npt's and just bought some elements off of Amazon. Luckily everything fit and worked. Did the 4 layers of pipe tape and no leaks.
Maddawgs
On my set up the npt's are female and the elements are male --I think No it wasn't luck, thats the way its done. If you look at your hot water heater most have a removable element that has a male thread.(A National Pipe Thread or NPT) That's why we need a NPT female to weld onto our boiler. I'm pretty sure the original poster had that in mind. OYY has found it absolutely necessary to pick every post of mine apart or try to belittle me every chance he gets and prove me wrong, not quite sure why but if you look back you'll see what I mean. I think someone with that attitude was asked to leave recently. Sorry I drifted off topic."
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Rank: Senior Member Groups: Registered
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Originally Posted by: heeler No it wasn't luck, thats the way its done. If you look at your hot water heater most have a removable element that has a male thread.(A National Pipe Thread or NPT) That's why we need a NPT female to weld onto our boiler. I'm pretty sure the original poster had that in mind.
OYY has found it absolutely necessary to pick every post of mine apart or try to belittle me every chance he gets and prove me wrong, not quite sure why but if you look back you'll see what I mean. I think someone with that attitude was asked to leave recently. Sorry I drifted off topic. Hi heeler, Thanks, no water heater at the house, all water is heated at the boiler. I had just figured that for as long as water heaters have been around there must be standards by now so standard fittings and standard elements. I do see what you mean..... Maddawgs
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Rank: Senior Member Groups: Registered, Moderator
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"Back on topic....
Clevand. you dont really need 220, if you have it availiable then it will work but 110 will do fine. You can use 220 elements with the 110 or just use 110 elements. If you are purchasing from BH of course they will install the NPT half coupling that fits the heating element (which you have read) thats really the hardest part of the build. Then once you get it home any water heating element will do, and with the router speed controller I dont know if it works with 220. I would think not but you can research it before you buy. It will indeed work with 110.
I use a RSC with 110 on a 220 element and it seems to work fine, if you go back through some threads I've even posted some voltage and amperage draws whilst in the heat up and the cooking modes. (if your interested)"
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I use a 1650W 110 element with a 20amp RSC on an 8 gal kettle and has plenty of power
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Rank: Senior Member Groups: Registered, Moderator
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Originally Posted by: dieselduo I use a 1650W 110 element with a 20amp RSC on an 8 gal kettle and has plenty of power Good combo. 1650 element draws 15 amps max at 110v 20 amp RSC is nice and safe and will allow you to run as slow as you want
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Rank: Senior Member Groups: Registered
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I had a 15 amp RSC before and it got too hot. The 20 amp doesn't even get warm and can run it on low when temp gets up. Thanks to the math on one of Scotty's stickies I am a happy camper !
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