logo                   
Welcome Guest! To enable all features please Login or Register.

Notification

Icon
Error

Login


Options
Go to last post Go to first unread
Offline ericg0729  
#1 Posted : Sunday, January 06, 2013 8:36:55 AM(UTC)
ericg0729


Rank: Junior Member

Reputation:

Groups: Registered
Joined: 1/4/2013(UTC)
Posts: 28

I have been doing alot of reading on here looking at diffrent hot plate configurations since i want to run in my house. I Keep seeing the use of hot water heater elements and was wondering how i could go about putting one in a all copper pot still. I would have to run off 110 since i dont have access to 220. Here is a pic of the pot any help would be greatly appreciated.
ericg0729 attached the following image(s):
still.JPG (11kb) downloaded 0 time(s).

You cannot view/download attachments. Try to login or register.
Offline scotty  
#2 Posted : Sunday, January 06, 2013 11:03:54 AM(UTC)
scotty


Rank: Senior Member

Reputation:

Groups: Registered, Moderator
Joined: 7/25/2009(UTC)
Posts: 2,209

have a 1 inch npt coupling installed--
Offline heeler  
#3 Posted : Monday, January 07, 2013 4:37:08 AM(UTC)
heeler


Rank: Senior Member

Reputation:

Groups: Registered, Moderator
Joined: 4/14/2010(UTC)
Posts: 1,666

Was thanked: 15 time(s) in 15 post(s)
"Try this....go to HD or Lowes and find a 1 inch copper threaded fitting. Thats what your element will screw into, then take it to the water heater area and find a element that will screw into it. They are there so find one short enough to fit inside your boiler (just measure the diameter before you go) and once you have the element and the fitting have that copper fitting ---soldered---right to the boiler. Its just soldering copper to copper no worries.

I used one of those with a beer keg and it did hold but I dropped the keg and it landed right on the element of course broke the solder joint. It will certanly be stronger soldered in a copper boiler than a keg.

then of course you need a way to control the heat --Router Speed Controller."
Offline ericg0729  
#4 Posted : Tuesday, January 08, 2013 7:18:13 AM(UTC)
ericg0729


Rank: Junior Member

Reputation:

Groups: Registered
Joined: 1/4/2013(UTC)
Posts: 28

Ok got he element and the fitting. What kind of
Soldier and flux do I need to get so it is food safe. Don't
Want to get sick lol
Offline heeler  
#5 Posted : Tuesday, January 08, 2013 8:37:23 AM(UTC)
heeler


Rank: Senior Member

Reputation:

Groups: Registered, Moderator
Joined: 4/14/2010(UTC)
Posts: 1,666

Was thanked: 15 time(s) in 15 post(s)
"lead free solder of course...and any plumbing flux, its kinda greasy but no worries it'll melt away after a few uses. Make the hole a tight fit if you can, maybe try a practice hole somewhere to make sure of the size for the fitting you chose. And use lots of flux because its a acid and it cleans away anything that would inhibit the solder from sticking.
And as far as the torch, any little propane bottle torch will get that hot enough to work great. Just get it hot and then touch the solder to it, if it dosen't melt hold the heat there and then try again. Post some pics when you get it done and if you need more tips ask before you start but this is an easy install."
Offline Dano  
#6 Posted : Tuesday, January 08, 2013 1:01:40 PM(UTC)
Dano


Rank: Newbie

Reputation:

Groups: Registered
Joined: 12/25/2012(UTC)
Posts: 9

I would cry if I had to cut a nice copper still like that...is there no way to use a submersible heating element so all you would have to do is drill a hole for your wire and seal the hole?
Offline heeler  
#7 Posted : Wednesday, January 09, 2013 7:37:00 AM(UTC)
heeler


Rank: Senior Member

Reputation:

Groups: Registered, Moderator
Joined: 4/14/2010(UTC)
Posts: 1,666

Was thanked: 15 time(s) in 15 post(s)
"
Originally Posted by: Dano Go to Quoted Post
I would cry if I had to cut a nice copper still like that...is there no way to use a submersible heating element so all you would have to do is drill a hole for your wire and seal the hole?


So to drill a hole for a wire is fine but not for the element????? I guess I see what ur sayin......

He could do either but since he's got the parts for the element installation now go that route....a hole is a hole and he would have to find the submersible thingy and I bet it would cost more than the element application. IMHO...."
Offline heeler  
#8 Posted : Wednesday, January 09, 2013 10:08:30 AM(UTC)
heeler


Rank: Senior Member

Reputation:

Groups: Registered, Moderator
Joined: 4/14/2010(UTC)
Posts: 1,666

Was thanked: 15 time(s) in 15 post(s)
"so ericG, hows that fitting and element coming along??? Should be pretty easy to make that setup work.....

Just a note, after installation you will need a way to control the voltage flow to your element. Thats where the ---router speed controller--comes in. You can pick one up form ebay or northern tools or several other places. Most folks like the 20 amp model but the 15 amp one will work too. If you have a choice get the bigger one for safety sake."
Offline heeler  
#9 Posted : Wednesday, January 09, 2013 10:13:07 AM(UTC)
heeler


Rank: Senior Member

Reputation:

Groups: Registered, Moderator
Joined: 4/14/2010(UTC)
Posts: 1,666

Was thanked: 15 time(s) in 15 post(s)
"oh and one more thing...I did'nt see a condenser in the picture but it looks like a threaded union coupling on the end of the spout. Thats something that is easy to make. You really dont want a coil worm if you can help it but whatever floats your boat I guess.

You can get the makings at the local builders store for that too, if you need info just ask most folks here can tell ya how to make one.Good luck."
Users browsing this topic
Guest (3)
Forum Jump  
You cannot post new topics in this forum.
You cannot reply to topics in this forum.
You cannot delete your posts in this forum.
You cannot edit your posts in this forum.
You cannot create polls in this forum.
You cannot vote in polls in this forum.