 Rank: Senior Member Groups: Registered, Moderator
Joined: 7/25/2009(UTC)
Posts: 2,209
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"I have on paper chosen a 6000 watt 240 volt element to use in my new in transit brewhaus boiler. P=IxE says it will pull 25 amps when 240 volts applied.(( i will run a dedicated line to supply the 240 volts) My reason for this is(i havent actually ohmed one out but)) that acording to my calculations, it should have a resistance of 9.6 ohms. voltage squared divided by the wats gave me the 9.6 ohmssoo with a 9.6 ohm resistance, i should pull 12.5 amps if i apply 120 volts. ( I wont have to change any wiring to because i'm staying under the 15 amps that my mobile home wiring likes. these specs should give me 1500 watts at 120 volts. [SIZE=""4""]OK IM LOOKING FOR SOMEONE TO CHECK AND CORRECT MY ON PAPER FIGURES[/SIZE] I would like to construct a switch that will allow me to apply 240 volts on heating up after which i want to be able to switch to 120v that is variac controlled. I think i saw this done somewhere. I do not want to change plugs from one receptacle to another. I would like the switch to be connected to both voltages or at least the 240 volt supply and then controll the output. Does any one have any ideas about the possible wiring of this switch. OR OR any corrections to my calculations. Thanks SCOTTY  "
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Rank: Senior Member Groups: Registered, Moderator
Joined: 7/25/2009(UTC)
Posts: 2,209
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"im researching the switch. it seems a double pole double throw will do it if i can find one heany enough to take the amperage and voltage still looking "
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Rank: Senior Member Groups: Registered
Joined: 12/10/2009(UTC)
Posts: 519
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"Hey Scotty, At present I am using an early prototype ""Mulekicker"" controller. How ever I was using a DPDT switch. *4500 watt element * #10 stranded cord for the harness *30amp breaker (could have used a 25 to be compliant with my building department. But only need 20 amps). *30 amp DPDT switch. When you jump to the 30 amp switch so does the money. I wanted to insure full capacity for the element. My heat up for a 20 liter wash is round 20 min. I metered my runs and the 240 (I have 250 volts) draws 4480 watts and 19 amps. The 120 volt side draws 1140 watts and 9.5 amps. The controller however gives me so much more control over my runs." LWTCS attached the following image(s):  keg element wiring 001.jpg (93kb) downloaded 0 time(s). keg element wiring 002.jpg (95kb) downloaded 0 time(s). keg element wiring 003.jpg (93kb) downloaded 0 time(s). keg element wiring 004.jpg (94kb) downloaded 0 time(s).You cannot view/download attachments. Try to login or register.
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Rank: Senior Member Groups: Registered, Moderator
Joined: 7/25/2009(UTC)
Posts: 2,209
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"i'm thinking now that because of the variac controll i will definitely need, that the voltage cross over switch needs 2 input cables. One cable for the 240 volts and another for the (120 volt + variac) input. This is a simple wiring task and home depot has 30 amp switches for 11 dollars. Way cheaper than the fortune  that on line vendors ask. This winter i am having a 7 by 15 platform built on the side of my mobile home. The platform is just outside the wall of the breaker panel. I want two recepticles run through the wall. one for each voltage. Actually, i already have 120 at that point. The platform will have an over hang and some privacy something on one side. I will put my smoker there and run my stills there. Lord willin and the krik dont run dry. I hate sounding like i will do something. We never really know if we have any more time than just today. Cancer and chemo drove that lesson into my head 2 years ago. I'm doing quite well now. i was one of the very fortunate ones. Well the proposed schematic is in the works and getting to look more possible. "
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 Rank: Junior Member Groups: Registered
Joined: 11/28/2012(UTC)
Posts: 17
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It's a bit of an old thread, but I would love to see that schematic for wiring a 110/220 switcher.
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Rank: Senior Member Groups: Registered, Moderator
Joined: 7/25/2009(UTC)
Posts: 2,209
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[ATTACH=CONFIG]673[/ATTACH] CLICK TO ENLARGE THE DRAWING I just finally got some software-- The unit has been fuNctioning correctly for months. I am in process of relocating its components into a more attractive frame. I'm trying to learn PLC programing so i can use a programable logic controller to monitor still temperatures to activate , float level switches and 3 way solenoid valves to separate the fores, heads, hearts and tails. scotty attached the following image(s): Drawing-IMG.jpg (177kb) downloaded 2 time(s).You cannot view/download attachments. Try to login or register.
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Rank: Advanced Member Groups: Registered
Joined: 12/3/2012(UTC)
Posts: 278
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Quote:
I'm trying to learn PLC programing so i can use a programable logic controller to monitor still temperatures to activate , float level switches and 3 way solenoid valves to separate the fores, heads, hearts and tails. WOOOOOHAAAA... Talk about hi tech... Can you really do that?
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Rank: Junior Member Groups: Registered
Joined: 11/28/2012(UTC)
Posts: 17
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Ah, separate line for the 110v. I figured it would just drop one of the 220v legs and switch the other side to neutral (making 110v). I guess this is a cleaner, and more appropriate way to hook it all up...just more plugs and extension cords running to the box.
Thanks!
Jimmy
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Rank: Senior Member Groups: Registered, Moderator
Joined: 7/25/2009(UTC)
Posts: 2,209
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Originally Posted by: Jimmy Highflyer  Ah, separate line for the 110v. I figured it would just drop one of the 220v legs and switch the other side to neutral (making 110v). I guess this is a cleaner, and more appropriate way to hook it all up...just more plugs and extension cords running to the box.
Thanks!
Jimmy I dont see why your idea wont work. you are not using the one line for more than one thing at the same time. just keep it away from the side with the 110 volt white return line or possible short. I have both recepticles less than 2 feet from the switching box. in fact the recepticles are both less than 2 feet from the breaker box. It just happened that wey.
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Rank: Senior Member Groups: Registered, Moderator
Joined: 7/25/2009(UTC)
Posts: 2,209
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Originally Posted by: captinjack WOOOOOHAAAA... Talk about hi tech... Can you really do that? Separating factions by smell and taste is the art. But this NY boy had been in too many nose breaking fist fights for his sniffer to be worth much. Alcohols boil at diferent temperatures so i would like to separate the factions based on that info. I am hoping that very slow running will get me in the ball park. Also the PLC will enable me to tweak the temperature ranges and possibly get close to what a good nose will do. Also no jar changing. I would also like the cooling pump to be turnrd on automatically.. Just dreaming--ive gone over the setup 1000 tims in my mind but the reality is that remounting my voltage switching control, Gettin the variable solid state relay tested and making a few washes for vodka and one for beer is first in line. We also have a sangeovese wine kit that we brought back from pensylvania. Time lol lol
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Rank: Senior Member Groups: Registered, Moderator
Joined: 7/25/2009(UTC)
Posts: 2,209
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HERE IS THE GENRAL IDEA-- FLOAT SWITCHES WILL CONTROL THE 150 ML OF FORESHOTS. I will also use a second float switch to save the first 850ml of heads to re run. I like to make imitation whiskeys with the rest of the heads. Brewhaus essences worked well for that. The float switches are mounted indiferent sized mason jars and are in series with the voltage supplys to the appropiate solenoids
Still resizing the drawing
#$%$#
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Rank: Senior Member Groups: Registered, Moderator
Joined: 7/25/2009(UTC)
Posts: 2,209
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[ATTACH=CONFIG]674[/ATTACH] This is the genral idea I could do this with PIDs but having found that PLCs actually exist, i was trapped. Im only about 80 years too late on the technology. Naturally if i cant learn the ladder logic programing it's a trashed project. I have a brand new 75 watt 2 meter fm mobile and a 30 amp switching power supply that i will sell to buy the PLC. scotty attached the following image(s): PLC-SETUP333.jpg (38kb) downloaded 0 time(s).You cannot view/download attachments. Try to login or register.
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 Rank: Newbie Groups: Registered
Joined: 12/13/2012(UTC)
Posts: 8
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Excellent reading... Look forward to hearing more of your idea.
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Rank: Senior Member Groups: Registered, Moderator
Joined: 7/25/2009(UTC)
Posts: 2,209
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Originally Posted by: BrewedOut Excellent reading... Look forward to hearing more of your idea. I am expecting the learning book and disk today
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Rank: Junior Member Groups: Registered
Joined: 10/8/2012(UTC)
Posts: 30
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Scotty. Where did you get your 6000 watt heater element? Will it fit in a keg? (15" max)
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Rank: Senior Member Groups: Registered, Moderator
Joined: 7/25/2009(UTC)
Posts: 2,209
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"the 6kw element came from grainger-- too expensive and too long- i extended the npt coupling with epoxy which gave out after a few runs. i finally found a 5500 watt shorter element at an on line harware supplyer."" hardwareandtools.com. very reasonable prices on elements. im running 5500 watt 240 volt elements in both my boilers now. http://www.hardwareandto...Htr-Element-6346852.html still having trouble re programing my pid voltage switch-- ive been failing at one project after another lately---simple wiring stuff too."
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Rank: Junior Member Groups: Registered
Joined: 10/8/2012(UTC)
Posts: 30
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hey scotty i sent a pm but no reply. give me your pid part number and ill be happy to help...
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Rank: Senior Member Groups: Registered, Moderator
Joined: 7/25/2009(UTC)
Posts: 2,209
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" Originally Posted by: joseph9936 hey scotty i sent a pm but no reply. give me your pid part number and ill be happy to help... i didnt see the pm Joseph. sorry i first have to check the rewiring. when i relocated the apparatus i'm beginning to suspect i put the alarm wires on the wrong terminals. it is an auber syl-1512a2 pid temp control-- i am using the alarm #1 terminal in the heat mode to activate a ssr which activates the coil on my mechanical relay. the relay coil is 220 volts and thats why i use the ssr in line instead of diricly activating the mechanical relay coil with the pid. I suspect that i have the power to the alarms and the al#1 wired improperly-- i just have to check first-- i have been very discouraged by my failures with the ssvr which should be the simplest wiring. thanks for the offer-- naturally i accept and need the help-- let me check the wiring first-- This thing worked perfectly for a few runs before i decided to relocate the components.   This second photo is before i finished securing and wiring the other PIDs. The idea here is to use the second PID to monitor the head temp to turn the water cooling system on and the third to monitor the head temp and shut the whole operation down when the head temp reaches 210 deg. F,"
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Rank: Junior Member Groups: Registered
Joined: 10/8/2012(UTC)
Posts: 30
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" Originally Posted by: LWTCS Hey Scotty,
At present I am using an early prototype ""Mulekicker"" controller.
How ever I was using a DPDT switch.
*4500 watt element
* #10 stranded cord for the harness
*30amp breaker (could have used a 25 to be compliant with my building department. But only need 20 amps).
*30 amp DPDT switch.
When you jump to the 30 amp switch so does the money. I wanted to insure full capacity for the element. My heat up for a 20 liter wash is round 20 min.
I metered my runs and the 240 (I have 250 volts) draws 4480 watts and 19 amps.
The 120 volt side draws 1140 watts and 9.5 amps.
The controller however gives me so much more control over my runs. I would love to hear more about how a run is described by you using the 4500 watt. I want to switch to the 4500 watt because the 6000w would mean I need to pull new wire :-( so i would like to use exsisting. I have been using two 1500 watt and turning one off to finish the run after warming things up quicker. How long does a 10 gal run take you on the 1140 watts? how much water you run in the reflux tower during the run? Thanks for the time...."
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Rank: Senior Member Groups: Registered, Moderator
Joined: 7/25/2009(UTC)
Posts: 2,209
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Joseph-- I just this minute found out why my dual voltage element control wasnt working any longer -- I had the on temp too low and since it was always warmer outside the PID would not activate the mechanical relay to apply the 220 volts.
I have a bit of renewed entheusiasm now I was ready to quit
THERE IS A SENSOR AT THE BASE OF THE TOWER-- Soon as a switch is turned on, there is 220 volts applied to the heat element. When the lower sensor senses about 155 deg F. it drops back to 110 volts because the PID is in the heat mode.
I have a variac in the 110 volt line to control the applied voltage from that point on.
I was using ground water 65 deg F.
I run as slow as possible and my 8 gallon runs took about 8 to 10 hours.
The heat up time was about 2 to 3 hours-- i cant really remember
Is this the info you requested. If not ill try harder to remember what the setup does so far. :)
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