Here's my tutorial on a copper build. There are several reasons why I decided to build my own. Mainly because at the time, a complete Brewhaus unit had about a 6 week back order. I did order my beginning items from Brewhaus for several reasons. I live in Texas, they live in Texas. The biggest reason was customer service. Rick and his crew answered my questions, answered my emails, and answered the phone. When all things are equal, I will go with customer service any day and everyday. The items I used from Brewhaus are the pieces to connect unit to the keg. I did get some other items, but they don't pertain to this build.

Why did I want to post this and share? I didn't come up with the following tutorial myself, but consolidated different articles, posts, threads, etc. into one article, with pictures. (I couldn't find any sticky's,hint,hint.) It may have been done somewhere else, but I couldn't find anything. I hope this will give enough information, in one thread, for those doing a build to be successful. Did I save any money doing it myself? Not really. I will have about 200 dollars in this unit when completed, not including keg. Copper is expensive at this time, and my plumber worked with me on a cost + basis. Why did I make the column 24 inches? Why did I make the condenser 38 inches? The three pieces of pipe I used is what my plumber had available and saved me from having to buy a full joint of pipe. I will be soldering this together myself using silver solder. I bought 1 pound, about 26 rods, for 16 dollars. I figure to use 8-10 rods on this build.

You may notice in the pictures that the column and condenser build both shows a union. There is only one union, but I showed them in both photos to help illustrate how it is used to connect the column and condenser. I did this for easy assembly/disassembly for storage. You can omit this step if you like.

Here we go.

I took all pieces, and the pipes, and did a rough polish using grade#1 steel wool. Once assembled, I will use a grade 00 and brasso to give it a nice finish and shine. If you plan on doing the solder yourself, rough up the joints to insure a good seal.

Lay out your pieces and do a rough fit to make sure it goes together without problems. You can reassemble and solder as a complete unit, or do pieces as you go, ending up with a complete finished unit. If you take it to someone for soldering, take it as a complete unit so they know how it goes together.

Materials:
Column:
Purchased from Brewhaus
1 2" long weld Tri-Clamp Ferrule
1 2" Tri-Clamp
1 2" Tri Clamp O-Ring for keg.

1 2" dia pipe 24" in length
1 2" dia pipe 6" in length
1 2" dia 90 degree
1 2" dia 45 degree
1 2" to 1" reducing coupler
1 1" to 1/2 " reducing coupler
1 1/2" dia pipe 2" in length (cut from 1/2 " 48" length pipe)
1 1/2" union

Condenser:
1 1/2" dia pipe 48" in length (Will be used to cut misc pieces)
1 1/2" dia pipe 38" in length
2 1/2" dia pipe 3-4" in length
1 1" dia pipe 28" in length (Will be used to cut misc pieces)
1 1" dia pipe 24" in length
2 1" dia pipe 2" in length
2 1" to 1/2" T
2 1" to 1/2"reducing coupler

Water hose connection:
I did this for my benefit only and you have the option to omit if you want.
1 1/2" to ¾" adapter (brass)
1 1/2" to ¾" swivel (brass)
1 1/2" male adapter

The below photo shows the fittings only, the pipe will be shown in assembly photos.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]812[/ATTACH]

When attaching the ferrule to the 2" copper pipe, makes sure to leave about 1/2" of ferrule out the bottom for the tri-clamp and attachment to the keg. Here was my first problem. I ordered the ferrule and while waiting for delivery, bought the fittings and pipe. I "assumed" the ferrule and pipe would both be the same diameter (OD) and I planned on using a 2" coupling to join the pair. They weren't the same diameter, outside diameter or inside diameter: OD and ID. The ferrule is a 2" OD, while the copper pipe was 2 1/8" OD and 1 7/8" ID. I could have used the 2" coupling, but that would have left a large area to be soldered: 2" vs 2 1/8". That doesn't sound like a lot, but when joining two pieces it was larger than I wanted. I took my 2" column pipe and ferrule to the local muffler shop. I had them stretch the copper pipe until the ferrule would slip inside for a nice fit. Easy peasy.

"no fit"
[ATTACH=CONFIG]813[/ATTACH]

"fit"
[ATTACH=CONFIG]814[/ATTACH]

next: column

"Condenser:
Here I have laid out the condenser pieces and assembled for soldering.

[ATTACH=CONFIG]829[/ATTACH]

Some close up of the ends.

Upper end or column side.

[ATTACH=CONFIG]825[/ATTACH]

This photo again shows the union on the end of the condenser. It is the same union shown in the column photos. This also shows the hose adapter and water outlet.

[ATTACH=CONFIG]826[/ATTACH]

Lower end or drip side.

[ATTACH=CONFIG]827[/ATTACH]

This shows the water inlet swivel.

[ATTACH=CONFIG]828[/ATTACH]"

Nice work.mate, that will serve you well, nothing better than building yourself, so easy too

"So I was playing around today, vinegar run and such, and had a thought. Being new and not sure of temps and the rate of drips, I thought of a temp gauge. I have used this for bbq and thought it might work for the column temp. It is presently attached with a hose clamp to the top of the column. It has a remote so I can do other things close by and it will beep me if the desired temp goes high. They claims it works up to 100 feet, but actually it is shorter. Being that copper is great at heat transfer, I figured the outside of the copper column will be close to the inside temps, so it might work.

[ATTACH=CONFIG]835[/ATTACH]

Time will tell."

Thanks heeler.

Presently I have a 15.5 gallon keg, but I am looking for something smaller. I really only have the means to do ferment 5 gallons or so at a time, so I am actively looking for a smaller keg.

Oh and you can add a heating element to any size keg you get..like I said mine is 6 or 7 gallons I think and I added a element to that one too. Good luck.

"

Hey JD, just wondering if you got a smaller keg and if you ever added a water heating element to it.

Or is the big one working out for you........"

Hi jack, planning on building a still off of your build. When you went from a 2" 45 to the 2"-1" reducing coupler, do you have to expand the end of the 45 to fit the reducing coupler into it? Or does it just slip in? I'm ordering parts and want to get the right ones. Thanks