 Rank: Junior Member Groups: Registered
Joined: 12/13/2011(UTC)
Posts: 28
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Whish I could post a pic up here for you guys of the backside of the weld I had done at a shop on a 15.5 gal keg. I just finished my first strip run consisting of two rum washes and was in the process of emptying/washing it out when I decided to take a flashlight and make sure I hadn't scorched any solids on the element. When I peeked in there I noticed the backside of the weld look bubbled up and black. I removed the element and noticed both a sooty and brownish color to the threads. I'm assuming the brownish color is going to be rust. Is it salvageable or have I paid a fab shop $100 to ruin my broiler?
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Rank: Junior Member Groups: Registered
Joined: 12/13/2011(UTC)
Posts: 28
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So after trying to get 1 finger through the SS half couple with a little bit of Emory cloth in hopes to sand it all away (wishful thinking) I had a bit of an idea. I have a tube of FDA (and fish tank) approved clear silicone that I could use to seal over all the bubbled/discolored area. The silicone was made to be used with food equipment, and it is not in the vapor trail, so I'm thinking that should work...
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Rank: Junior Member Groups: Registered
Joined: 12/13/2011(UTC)
Posts: 28
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After looking around it looks to be sugaring of the weld. Seeing as I can't get a brush in there to clean it I am going to look around locally for some citric acid and table salts to hopefully clean up the blackish stuff then do a citric acid only to re pacify. Is this sugaring something to be worried about? Or is it mainly going to shorten the lifespan of the weld due to rust? Not really concerned with it not lasting forever, just don't want it to put bad stuff in the hooch.
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 Rank: Newbie Groups: Registered
Joined: 6/22/2013(UTC)
Posts: 7
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I seen your post last night but wanted to confirm with a coworker about your question about the black and bubbling,seems the fab shop you used went on the cheap and didn't purge the keg with gas which in turn doesn't give a good clean weld as impurities get in it...It may hold up or may not depends on the quality of the weld
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 Rank: Senior Member Groups: Registered, Moderator
Joined: 4/14/2010(UTC)
Posts: 1,666
Was thanked: 15 time(s) in 15 post(s)
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If it dosent leak then dont worry about that aspect, theres not a lot you can do about it but I dont think you can atomize rust anyway. You most asuredly are not the only person in the world with that issue (bubbling of the weld on the inside I mean) so use what ever compound you want to clean it ( something you can remove afterwords of course) and try it. If any of us saw what was in the bottom of our hot water heaters we would prolly puke and you shower and drink that everyday.
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Rank: Junior Member Groups: Registered
Joined: 11/25/2009(UTC)
Posts: 143
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What they did is shortcut on the welding process and as Frost suggested they didn't purge the oxygen from the vessel! This is done with Argon gas which is heavier than oxygen and therefore displaces the oxygen that is in the vessel allowing it to be welded without oxidizing the weld on the inside.
In industry this is not usually allowed,as it results in a weaker weld and in your case something that is impossible to clean!
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Rank: Junior Member Groups: Registered
Joined: 5/12/2013(UTC)
Posts: 15
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Typically when welding stainless you need to have an oxygen free environs on the back side. Purging with Argon is what I usually do especially when doing sanitary welds. The black "sugared" mass on the back side tells me they probably welded it too hot as well as no purge. What color are the welds on the front side? They should be golden blueish hued. If they welded it to hot, its possible they cooked the nickle out and it will rust. Even when sanitary welds are done properly it is advisable to passivate the weld as well.
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