"I've been using a low power density (long and folds back on itself kind) 240v 5500w heating element on 110v (1350w max, variable via RSC) plus Propane on a 15gal converted beer keg. I kept the Propane pretty low and the element on full during initial heating and it was successful in bringing a 12gal batch up to temp in about an hour. The element alone never made a bubbling sound, and I kept the Propane just high enough to start to hear the hiss boiling bubbles. I have use this to success on the pot still, but recently upgraded to a 3"" PSII and the 1350w element alone is not enough power.

Sooo...I built up a 240v power controller (Thanks Captinjack) and can now use 100% of the 5500w element and have done away with the Propane boost.

My question is - do you guys that have this config just run the element full blast from the start, bring it in slowly in stages, or something else?

The reason I'm asking is that anything above about 12amps creates audible hiss of boiling bubbles. 14 gets louder...18 is popping (large bubbles) and snarling...and the full 22amps is very loud, pops, snarls, and wiggles the column. You get the picture. I realize the bubbles are from localized boiling of the liquid actually touching the element...I just don't know how much of that boil away is allowable.

Thoughts?"

Jimmy I run a 5500 watt element as you have hooked to a controller but 240 volts,as far as your ? goes you will get varied answers,I my self bring it up in stages of about thirds!

It may not make a difference on how it is done but,I do not like to hear all the racket that goes on in the boiler when it is cranked full to heat! Just IMO

Thanks guys. I'm kinda shocked that only the two of you chimed in.

Yeah, bentstick, it's the noise in the boiler that I don't like. When it's popping and snarling...it means it's flash boiling the liquid touching the surface of the element. When that vaporizes, that part of the element has no liquid to absorb the heat for a split second until the bubble moves, liquid returns, and repeats the process.

Besides the noise...which is unsettling...I think there is the possibility of element damage.

Anyone else want to chime in with some advice? Anyone using the Camco S-shaped low density element?...is it any better?

Jimmy

I recently switched to a low density element. Previously I've only used the cheap home depot 5500w higher density ones. The power depends on your boiler charge. When I make AG whiskies I heat up at 15 or 16 amps until my boiler vapor temp is about 160* F, then go down to about 12 amps to stabilize my column for 30 to 60 minutes, pull my fores and heads, and go back up to 16 amps for the run. I only do this because I'm concerned about the solids in my wash scorching, or the possibility of foaming or puking since I run my whiskey in 1 run through a 4 plate flute. When I make rum or neutrals I fire off at full power (22 amps is all I ever get, really) and drop the power to 16 amps to pull fores and heads, then back up to 18/20 for the run. Even with the higher density elements, I get a year or two before I replace them.

For reference, I'm driving a 26 gallon boiler with a 20 gallon charge most of the time. My flute can take all the power I can throw at it and then some, so depending on how your rig operates (getting it into equilibrium) you might not want to hit it with that much power. As far as the boiler noise, if there's nothing in there to scorch then I wouldn't worry about it. I have a friend who has 2 5500w elements on his 15.5 gal keg boiler and he has full reflux about 30 minutes after fire off. He just switches one off once he's up to temp. That thing makes a racket, but he's all about speed.