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"Want to run a parrot and proofmeter on product. Understand that the first 250 mL is to be tossed. Then slide in parrot and when its almost full set in meter. When do you take a reading on the discharge? One at the beginning and one at the end and average the 2 or just one in the middle of the cut?
SHould I keep track of the proof per cut for blending after its aired out? On the tails end, where is a good proof to pull the plug. Thanks, B."
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"I dont want to be snarky but really the proof of the cuts is second to the smell, smell is really the best way to get really clean cuts or division of each section of the run. For differnet mashes or washes and different stills the proof may be all over the board, but the smell well thats another story.
You mentioned you want to use a proof meter ( a alcohol hydrometer ) and thats the only way your gonna know for sure what proof your hooch is since most cant REALLY <<< read the bead anymore>>> I know some will say just givera good shake or lite it on fire and that will tell all, well it will tell you that it has some etoh in it but not the actual proof of whats in the jug.
And to useing a parrot, I like to use mine and you will too once you get one, but again you prolly wont be able to say ---- ok I see 140proof and thats where the heads start or the foreshots ends, its just not that defined with most home use stills. No worries though after you make your run and get it all collected, you can start sniffin and figger out what smells nice or nasty --THEN-- as you combine everything that smells good you'll say ok that must be hearts so lets see what the proof is and cut it down to drinkin strength. Like one of our members said once.....it's science but it ain't rocket science..."
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Rank: Junior Member Groups: Registered
Joined: 6/24/2013(UTC) Posts: 53  
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+1 to what Heeler said. Run as slow as you can tolerate at the beginning of your run when you're pulling your foreshots off. I do 1 drip per second. Collect in lots of small jars and make your decisions on cuts after they've had a chance to air out for 24
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Rank: Junior Member Groups: Registered
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Heeler and Randy Thanks for the advice. I will rely more on my nose for making cuts. Does the dilution with water to drinking proof help with the smell of the cuts. Would you add water to the separate cut jars before you snifftest? B
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Rank: Senior Member Groups: Registered, Moderator
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"Would you add water to the separate cut jars before you snifftest?
Thats not how I do it but if you learn to do it that way and it works for you ok, the idea behind sniffing those jars is to determine the good from the not so good. Then as you determine which is the good stuff (the hearts if you will) you pour that in a common vessel ( I use a tea pitcher ) and at that point all the stuff in that pitcher is the good stuff. (See it now?) Lets say there is 2.75 quarts worth in the pitcher, givera a stir to combine and put the hydrometer in the pithcer ---- what does it read??
Assumeing it says 140 proof and you want it to finalize at 100 proof, add some water (to cut it) and take another reading, I use those little water bottles that you buy by the case.
I pour in SOME of the bottle givera a stir and take another reading, if it's still too high I add a little more until it's what I want, it's really that simple."
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Rank: Junior Member Groups: Registered
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Heeler, Thanks for the clarification. It sounded like the dilution with water made the determination by smell easier to do. Your way is easier and you only do the dilution to the combined "keepers" one time. B.
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Your nose will be your best bet in terms of making cuts. The foreshots is the first thing that comes out of the still and it will smell like paint thinner. It's not a terrible over powering type of smell, but it does stink just enough to let you know not to drink it. This will fall off quite a bit as you get into the run more. Usually around 200 degrees F is when you'll start getting into the tails which will depend on what you're running through the still. As far as testing goes you'll need 2 items. The first is called a hydrometer. This does measure the alcohol of your wash/mash but it doesn't work with distilled spirits. You'll need a proof/tralles meter for that. This device doesn't work on your wash/mash though. The best investment you can make is getting the complete alcohol testing pack from Brewhaus. Here's the link: http://www.brewhaus.com/Test-Pack-P1222.aspx Just highlight the link and copy it then paste it into your browser. The distiller's parrot is an awesome tool to add to your arsenal, but I do agree with heeler and RandyMarshCT about using it. Once you get around 5 or 6 runs, you should be ready to use one and have a really good idea on where to make your cuts during distilling. It comes with time and experience.
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Rank: Junior Member Groups: Registered
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Knightmare1015, Thanks for the information. I will use my nose as I learn how my rig performs. I plan to do several types of washes and will keep notes on how the different products come off. I would like to install a thermometer on my still but not sure where the best location would be. I am putting together a pot still 10 gallon kettle with a 2 inch column 36 inches high then into a 36 inch copper condensor. Thanks, B.
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Rank: Guest
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Originally Posted by: Backwash  Knightmare1015, Thanks for the information. I will use my nose as I learn how my rig performs. I plan to do several types of washes and will keep notes on how the different products come off. I would like to install a thermometer on my still but not sure where the best location would be. I am putting together a pot still 10 gallon kettle with a 2 inch column 36 inches high then into a 36 inch copper condensor. Thanks, B. You're welcome. The best place to put a thermometer is in the very top of the tower.
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" Originally Posted by: Backwash I would like to install a thermometer on my still but not sure where the best location would be. Don't bother with a thermometer. Stay focused on your collection rate and your senses."
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