logo                   
Welcome Guest! To enable all features please Login or Register.

Notification

Icon
Error

Login


Options
Go to last post Go to first unread
Offline Mad Mike  
#1 Posted : Wednesday, June 18, 2014 6:50:52 AM(UTC)
Mad Mike


Rank: Junior Member

Reputation:

Groups: Registered
Joined: 6/11/2014(UTC)
Posts: 11

I'm new to the whole process but had considered doing it for several years. Finally decided the time was right. I just completed constructing a VR distiller on a 15.5 gallon pot. Got the plans online. I test ran water through it yesterday and it seems like I'm loosing quite a bit of steam out of the open condenser. Running straight well water (cold) to the cooling lines on full bore. Also started a sugar wash with the Turbo 24 following directions provided. Now after reading quite a bit on this site I came to figure out I may have made several (numerous) mistakes. I can always increase the size of the condenser but why does the Turbo 24 yeast get such bad reviews on this site? Anyway, I will be asking a load of questions once I screw up this initial run. Oh, on a good note, when I opened my recent order from BH my hydrometer was cracked. Called today to order two and they said they would replace the one that was cracked at no charge. Have a great day.
Offline RandyMarshCT  
#2 Posted : Wednesday, June 18, 2014 8:48:05 AM(UTC)
RandyMarshCT


Rank: Junior Member

Reputation:

Groups: Registered
Joined: 6/24/2013(UTC)
Posts: 53
Man
United States

Welcome Mad Mike!

The turbos have a bad rep because they ferment hard and fast, generating a lot of heat and creating a lot of undesirable by-products that increase your quantities of heads and tails. In addition, they always recommend shooting for high % ABV... something that seems like a good idea at first, but isn't in the long run. To get the best spirit for your money, fermenting a bit slower and shooting for 8% to 12% ABV (depending on what type of spirit you are making) will give you the best flavor because it keeps your yeast happy. In the presence of higher alcohol environments, yeast cells get strained and produce more congeners (acetone, acetaldehyde, esters, tannins, and aldehydes) which are cut as heads and tails during distillation (also called fusel alcohols, or sometimes fusel oils). These congeners are also produced in higher quantities when the temperature range of your fermenter goes above the recommended fermentation temps for the particular yeast type you are using. Turbos work great if you are making fuel... but patience works best for potable spirits. A good yeast to use for sugar wash neutrals is EC-1118. Search for a recipe called "Birdwatchers" or "TPW" (tomato paste wash). These are good recipes that include yeast nutrients that are easy to find. The turbos have the yeast nutrients in them... frequently too much, which can lead to more problems with your distillate.

Are you running your cooling water into the product end of the condenser and out of the end where the vapor enters (counter flow)? This is important. The water input end should be cool to the touch and the output end warmer. Any chance you have a pic of your rig? Might help with the troubleshooting.
Offline RandyMarshCT  
#3 Posted : Wednesday, June 18, 2014 9:05:56 AM(UTC)
RandyMarshCT


Rank: Junior Member

Reputation:

Groups: Registered
Joined: 6/24/2013(UTC)
Posts: 53
Man
United States

Mad Mike.... also, here are 4 very good books for free (pdf) from some of the best names in home distilling. I recommend reading them all.

Making pure corn whiskey by Ian Smiley: http://curezone.com/uplo...r_Amateur_Distillers.pdf

Making Gin & Vodka by John Stone: http://api.ning.com/file...f9K42IR2yhao9esGvgeXHsI5*9ux5QA45yO4HhAzVlFC8yPYna3MXtNf5F2i6jIjvVNNKFm*nzm/MakingGinVodka.pdf

The Compleat Distiller by Nixon & McCaw: http://www.thefreeholdsi...e_Compleat_Distiller.pdf

Craft Whiskey Distilling by the ADI: http://aussiedistiller.com.au/91C2Ad01.pdf
Offline Mad Mike  
#4 Posted : Wednesday, June 18, 2014 11:02:37 AM(UTC)
Mad Mike


Rank: Junior Member

Reputation:

Groups: Registered
Joined: 6/11/2014(UTC)
Posts: 11

Randy, I really appreciate all of the detailed information and the way you explain the reasoning behind it all. I did a water run yesterday and a cleanout on my rig, once I put it back together I will take and post a picture. My water is coming in at the bottom of the condenser and runs through 10 coils of 1/4 tubing 2 inches in diameter and exits the top. The input and output ends are very cool to the touch. Thanks for the tips on the free books. Will download and read. Take care.
Offline Mad Mike  
#5 Posted : Saturday, June 28, 2014 12:52:34 AM(UTC)
Mad Mike


Rank: Junior Member

Reputation:

Groups: Registered
Joined: 6/11/2014(UTC)
Posts: 11

Finished that first run. Learned quite a bit. At the lower boiling temps I didn't have any problem with loss of steam (at least not visible) through the open condenser. Cuts averaged 180 proof. I think my entire run was slightly smeared as it was just a tad bit cloudy. Thinking of switching my needle valves out for ball valves and investing in an activated carbon filter. Cut all to 80 proof and actually had a smooth sample that left a nice warm feeling in the belly. Overall I am very pleased with the initial results. Thanks for all of the input and advice folks.
Users browsing this topic
Guest
Forum Jump  
You cannot post new topics in this forum.
You cannot reply to topics in this forum.
You cannot delete your posts in this forum.
You cannot edit your posts in this forum.
You cannot create polls in this forum.
You cannot vote in polls in this forum.