Rank: Senior Member Groups: Registered, Moderator Joined: 7/25/2009(UTC) Posts: 2,209
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"I am trying to construct a small container that will hold 150ml of fore shots and then break the voltage supply to a solenoid that will redirect the alcohol flow to a heads container. I have a small float activated switch that is rated at 1/2 amp and 100 volts DC.
WILL THE FLOAT SWITCH BE ABLE TO HANDLE 1/2 AMP AT 120 VOLTS AC?
Please help.:)"
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Rank: Senior Member Groups: Registered
Joined: 1/12/2012(UTC) Posts: 804
Was thanked: 5 time(s) in 5 post(s)
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"scotty,
If the float switch can't handle the current, just have it switch the control current/voltage for a mechanical relay or an SSR."
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Rank: Senior Member Groups: Registered, Moderator Joined: 7/25/2009(UTC) Posts: 2,209
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That's my alternate method John. I was just trying to keep the number of parts down. My gizmo to switch the 220 to 110 voltage to the heat element looks like a test panel in a power plant now lol
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Rank: Senior Member Groups: Registered
Joined: 1/12/2012(UTC) Posts: 804
Was thanked: 5 time(s) in 5 post(s)
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It would be good practice anyhow to use low current/low voltage in the vicinity of flammable liquids ... depending on your how you have things set up, you might also want a guaranteed path to atmosphere in case of power fail ... at least one (or all) solenoid valve(s) that are normally open. I know it bumps up the parts count. But it's pretty inexpensive compared to a mishap.:)
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Rank: Senior Member Groups: Registered, Moderator Joined: 7/25/2009(UTC) Posts: 2,209
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The solenoids only pull 7 watts or.058 amps at 120 volts. The float switch is rated at .5 amps at 100 volts.
The solenoids are rated for continuous use. I intend to turn them all on at the start of the process and turn off each one as different factions/temperatures arise.
I didn't realize it but by doing it this way' I accidently set it up so in a power or mechanism failure, the path would fall back to the normally open or straight through one.
Good thinking John.
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