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#1 Posted : Tuesday, February 06, 2007 6:40:11 AM(UTC)
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ok I have seen the pics from vodkadaddy_1950 and it inspired me to post some of my own I am not very skilled at soldering but you can think of this as the budget still lol. I am sorda of a armature at distilling and as you will see the still is like 2/4 the way done I will post update pics as I go so if you have any thoughts or opinions on the still feel free to say them

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#2 Posted : Tuesday, February 06, 2007 8:46:09 AM(UTC)
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nice sox brendon
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#3 Posted : Tuesday, February 06, 2007 11:16:24 AM(UTC)
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lol the best sox I ware nothing but wool I will take a pic of the still tonight
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#4 Posted : Tuesday, February 06, 2007 12:19:55 PM(UTC)
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ok here is a little more progress from a trip to home depo. how dose it look
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#5 Posted : Wednesday, February 07, 2007 6:11:00 PM(UTC)
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Brenden...... You have good heart, and I can see that you want to get going soon, but please listen to me...... Stop using Aluminum to cook in..... I know a lot of people will bash me for going after aluminum but right now you are young and it is almost guaranteed that a limetime of exposure to aluminum cookware will guarantee Alzhimers.......

I know I can hear them already, you have no proof, but are you willing to risk your future life on the same people that said second hand smoke is no danger to other people....??

Get yourself a stainless steel keg and only use the best materials you can get your hands on healthwise.......
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#6 Posted : Thursday, February 08, 2007 1:58:17 AM(UTC)
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Here here, I'm with Guzzler all the way on this one. You can pick up an old beer keg really cheap. It's worth it.
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#7 Posted : Thursday, February 08, 2007 3:05:32 AM(UTC)
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Oh, I forgot to tell you, the next issue of Distilling Quarterly has a very comprehensive article called Metals and Distillation written by Harry Jackson that is outstanding and very well researched. The article covers all types of metals used in our hobby. Whats good, whats bad, and why. I don't want to quote his work until it is published, but his conclusions on aluminum goes beyond just the health issues, it explains why it's a poor choice for a variety of reasons.
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#8 Posted : Thursday, February 08, 2007 6:47:00 AM(UTC)
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Not to offend anyone, but just looking at our country and it's 'habits', it is easy to see that avoiding something only becasue of adverse health side effects is not frequently practiced. However, reasons based on mone= y, efficiency ,if it means not as costly especially,, and immediate results seem to be more persuasive.

Rob
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#9 Posted : Thursday, February 08, 2007 9:55:17 AM(UTC)
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well then dose that mean that any other metal will work like stainless ?
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#10 Posted : Thursday, February 08, 2007 10:05:00 AM(UTC)
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Avoid Lead.... ;,
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#11 Posted : Thursday, February 08, 2007 10:12:52 AM(UTC)
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Elricko,

Looking forward to Harry's article, he is very knowledgeable and level headed.

Here is some imfo. you may care to pass along to him about al. In the '70's my father was instrumental in helping a friend obtain a very high level job with Kraft foods. They were both chemical engineers. The friend ,Mormon, passed on a warning to give to all his family at the next visit. His family used no al. cookware, but he stated that was really a miniscule problem relative to the al that was ingested by people from eating processed foods such as American cheese, package mac and cheese, au-gratins etc. as quite a bit of al was used to allow the cheese to melt at lower temps. and disburse evenly. And also, the al chlorohydrates used in most all of the deoderants at the time, as they passed almost immediately into the body, where they lodged forever. A single cheesburger could give you more al than hundreds of meals from cookware. I have never heard that this has been eliminated from all these products, though they may have. Doubt it though.

Anyhow, I haven't made any grilled cheese mashes!
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#12 Posted : Thursday, February 08, 2007 10:14:10 AM(UTC)
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lol o ya I will try to not try to but a solid lead pot next time ........or using lead solder believe me I am not that dumb but I do thank you quzzler i will buy a new pot maybe some time this weekend if I get a chance but thank you all for the info I hope this summer when I will have more money to spend of projects like this I can get super serious about this subject instead of spending hundreds on alcohol
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#13 Posted : Thursday, February 08, 2007 10:43:01 AM(UTC)
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when i first started, i was curious too about what elements/materials to use and in what conditions to avoid certain others. below i pasted a section from http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stainless-steel which i found VERY helpful in eliminating most of my confusion about stainless-steel. Stainless steel Grades [list is not exhaustive] - 200 Series=97austenitic chromium-nickel-manganese alloys - 300 Series=97austenitic chromium-nickel alloys - Type 301=97highly ductile, for formed products. Also hardens rapidly during mechanical working. Good weldability. Better wear re= sistance and fatigue strength than 304. - Type 302=97same corrosion resistance as 304, with slightly higher strength due to additional carbon. - Type 303=97easier machining version of 304 via addition of sulfur and phosphorus. Also referred to as 'A1' in accordance with = International Organization for Standardization ISO 3506 [6] . - Type 304=97the most common grade; the classic 18/8 stainless steel. Also referred to as 'A2' in accordance with International Organization for Standardization ISO 3506 [7] . - Type 309=97 better temperature resistance than 304 - Type 316=97the second most common grade ,after 304,; for foodand surgical stainless steeluses; Alloy addition of molybdenum prevents specific forms of corrosion. Also known as 'marine grade' stainless steel due to its increased r= esistance to chloride corrosion compared to type 304. SS316 is often used for= building nuclear reprocessingplants. Most watches that are made of stainless steel are made of this grade. Rolex is an exception in that they use Type 904L. 18/10 stai= nless often corresponds to this grade.[1]Also referred to as 'A4' in accordance with International Organization for Standardization ISO 3506 [8] . - Type 321=97 similar to 304 but lower risk of weld decaydue to addition of titanium. See also 347 wi= th addition of niobium for desensitization during welding. - 400 Series=97ferritic and martensitic chromium alloys - Type 408=97heat-resistant; poor corrosion resistance; 11% chromium, 8% nickel. - Type 409=97cheapest type; used for automobile exhausts ; ferritic ,iron/chromium only,. - Type 410=97martensitic ,high-strength iron/chromium,. Wear resistant, but less corrosion resistant. - Type 416=97 easy to machine due to additional sulfur - Type 420=97'Cutlery Grade' martensitic; similar to the Brearley's original 'rustless steel'. Also known as 'surgical steel= '. Excellent polishability. - Type 430=97decorative, e.g., for automotive trim; ferritic. Good formability, but with reduced temperature and corrosion resist= ance. - Type 440=97a higher grade of cutlery steel, with more carbon in it, which allows for much better edge retention when the steel i= s heat treated properly. It can be hardened to Rockwell 58 hardness, makin= g it one of the hardest stainless steels. Also known as 'razor blade steel'. Available in three grades 440A, 440B, 440C ,more common, and 440F ,= free machinable,. - 500 Series=97heat resisting chromium alloys - 600 Series=97martensitic precipitation hardeningalloys - Type 630=97most common PH stainless, better known as 17-4; 17% chromium, 4% nickel [edit ] Stainless steel finishes [image: 316L stainless steel, with an unpolished, mill finish.] 316L stainless steel, with an unpolished, mill finish. Standard mill finishes can be applied to flat rolled stainless steel directly by the rollers and by mechanical abrasives. Steel is first rolle= d to size and thickness and then annealedto change the properties of the final material. Any oxidation that forms on the surface ,scale, is removed by pickling, and the passivation layer is created on the surface. A final finish can then be applied to achieve t= he desired aesthetic appearance. - No. 0 - Hot Rolled Annealed, thicker plates - No. 1 - Hot rolled, annealed and passivated - No, 2D - cold rolled, annealed, pickled and passivated - No, 2B - same as above with additional pass through polished rollers - No, 2BA - Bright Anealed ,BA, same as above with highly polished rollers - No. 3 - coarse abrasive finish applied mechanically - No. 4 - brushed finish - No. 6 - matte finish - No. 7 - reflective finish - No. 8 - mirror finish
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#14 Posted : Thursday, February 08, 2007 10:46:48 AM(UTC)
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sorry about that gobble-dy-gook... it doesnt copy/paste right... here it is as it should appear

Stainless steel Grades [list is not exhaustive]

* 200 Seriesâ€"austenitic chromium-nickel-manganese alloys
* 300 Seriesâ€"austenitic chromium-nickel alloys
o Type 301â€"highly ductile, for formed products. Also hardens rapidly during mechanical working. Good weldability. Better wear resistance and fatigue strength than 304.
o Type 302â€"same corrosion resistance as 304, with slightly higher strength due to additional carbon.
o Type 303â€"easier machining version of 304 via addition of sulfur and phosphorus. Also referred to as 'A1' in accordance with International Organization for Standardization ISO 3506[6].
o Type 304â€"the most common grade; the classic 18/8 stainless steel. Also referred to as 'A2' in accordance with International Organization for Standardization ISO 3506[7].
o Type 309â€" better temperature resistance than 304
o Type 316â€"the second most common grade ,after 304,; for food and surgical stainless steel uses; Alloy addition of molybdenum prevents specific forms of corrosion. Also known as 'marine grade' stainless steel due to its increased resistance to chloride corrosion compared to type 304. SS316 is often used for building nuclear reprocessing plants. Most watches that are made of stainless steel are made of this grade. Rolex is an exception in that they use Type 904L. 18/10 stainless often corresponds to this grade.[1] Also referred to as 'A4' in accordance with International Organization for Standardization ISO 3506[8].
o Type 321â€" similar to 304 but lower risk of weld decay due to addition of titanium. See also 347 with addition of niobium for desensitization during welding.
* 400 Seriesâ€"ferritic and martensitic chromium alloys
o Type 408â€"heat-resistant; poor corrosion resistance; 11% chromium, 8% nickel.
o Type 409â€"cheapest type; used for automobile exhausts; ferritic ,iron/chromium only,.
o Type 410â€"martensitic ,high-strength iron/chromium,. Wear resistant, but less corrosion resistant.
o Type 416â€" easy to machine due to additional sulfur
o Type 420â€"'Cutlery Grade' martensitic; similar to the Brearley's original 'rustless steel'. Also known as 'surgical steel'. Excellent polishability.
o Type 430â€"decorative, e.g., for automotive trim; ferritic. Good formability, but with reduced temperature and corrosion resistance.
o Type 440â€"a higher grade of cutlery steel, with more carbon in it, which allows for much better edge retention when the steel is heat treated properly. It can be hardened to Rockwell 58 hardness, making it one of the hardest stainless steels. Also known as 'razor blade steel'. Available in three grades 440A, 440B, 440C ,more common, and 440F ,free machinable,.
* 500 Seriesâ€"heat resisting chromium alloys
* 600 Seriesâ€"martensitic precipitation hardening alloys
o Type 630â€"most common PH stainless, better known as 17-4; 17% chromium, 4% nickel

[edit] Stainless steel finishes
316L stainless steel, with an unpolished, mill finish.
316L stainless steel, with an unpolished, mill finish.

Standard mill finishes can be applied to flat rolled stainless steel directly by the rollers and by mechanical abrasives. Steel is first rolled to size and thickness and then annealed to change the properties of the final material. Any oxidation that forms on the surface ,scale, is removed by pickling, and the passivation layer is created on the surface. A final finish can then be applied to achieve the desired aesthetic appearance.

* No. 0 - Hot Rolled Annealed, thicker plates
* No. 1 - Hot rolled, annealed and passivated
* No, 2D - cold rolled, annealed, pickled and passivated
* No, 2B - same as above with additional pass through polished rollers
* No, 2BA - Bright Anealed ,BA, same as above with highly polished rollers
* No. 3 - coarse abrasive finish applied mechanically
* No. 4 - brushed finish
* No. 6 - matte finish
* No. 7 - reflective finish
* No. 8 - mirror finish
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#15 Posted : Thursday, February 08, 2007 10:51:16 AM(UTC)
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well I mean like a cookware pot from stainless steel will work but I am sure I can find one around my house so I guess I will start looking huh lol or just go down town to a big lots where they have pretty cheap cookware so any other health concerns we should review before I go on to distill but if none other I will continue work lol besides drinking and the temps you need to heat it at
I see on brewhaus's website they offer a cheap lightly toasted keg I plan on getting a few this summer and I will make real fine rum and idk who knows mabey even whiskey or sump thing along the lines of that
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#16 Posted : Friday, February 09, 2007 2:17:40 AM(UTC)
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Brenden:

I think the cheapest deal going is a stainless steel beer keg. You can generally find them easily enough. I use a 'pony keg' which is a half keg for my 25L batches and a full sized keg for my double batches. I paid $15 for the half keg and $20 for the full keg. They work perfectly and are very durable. you can use them with propane if that is yoour preference or convert them to electric as I did.
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#17 Posted : Friday, February 09, 2007 2:20:59 AM(UTC)
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John:

I will pass your info off to Harry. Damn!! I loved grilled cheese!!!!
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#18 Posted : Friday, February 09, 2007 9:54:28 AM(UTC)
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hey I am going to be doing some rum in the next few weeks. I will be informing you all of this form and hopefully posting some pics well I guess off to work huh lol
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#19 Posted : Thursday, February 15, 2007 10:31:49 AM(UTC)
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hey its me again I will try to get some new pics of my still but lol yes I have just had the dumbest problem the still with the burner which is propane and stands about 1 and 1/2 Ft. all together is like 6 3/4 ft so now I am gonna have to get a electric thermometer because its so tall............yester day I was messing around with it and it was going well but not all finished and their is some cooling I need to do some work on............ but its ok any ways I started it up and this burner had it working in about 10-15 min yes fast well it was going so I was toying around with a lighter and in my mind I was thinking I wounder what proof is coming out of this still of mine so I lit it and their was a huge blue alcohol flame coming out of it which was pretty neat so I am guessing it works and I think the flame kept burning in the pipe because after that the proof was much lower so I am guessing that was the cause.......... but other that that it was working well and the wash I was using only was fermenting for a few days which bread yeast and couldn't have produced any more alcohol in that shore time yess I am very impatient when it comes to any thing which is a bad thing for us brewers because you have to be patient for fermentation .......guess thats about it o ya copper fittings are so expensive I am using 1 and 1/4 pipe and 2 fittings costed me $18. But if I get lucky this growing season I can get plenty of apples and produce some mighty fine shine.........thats it for me hope you liked the update
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