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#21 Posted : Monday, April 02, 2007 4:11:34 PM(UTC)
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stephen,
fer what it's worth, i agree with bill94. i would use 14 awg wire fer this. i've been a maintenance electrician fer 10 years and just as a precaution i would use 14 awg. in industrial applications no one uses 16 awg fer anything besides control wiring, where there is not gonna be any major amperage on the wire. from a residential application, no wires in yer house is less than 14 awg. the difference in price is not that much, and my personal opinion is 14 is better, safer, and will last longer. this forum is here to keep people informed and safe. just my 2 cents worth.
buzzman
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#22 Posted : Monday, April 02, 2007 10:22:24 PM(UTC)
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Robert:

I agree with buzzman in that 14 gage is better. It costs a wee bit more but it is worth is. As far as the ground wire I originally snipped it off and ran it for a long time that way with no problem but it always bothered me so I went back and put a small screw in the botom flange on the keg below the bottom and ran the ground wire there. I just feel safer.

For the record I got the 2000W coil at home depot and it cost the same as a 1500W one. It isn't absolutely necessary, but it just helps do the initial heatup faster. I'm thinking that I will have a 240 plug installed in my new house in Florida and replace the 2000 with a higher watt coil. That initial warm up period is just a big waste of time, so the sooner I get through it the better.

Cheers!
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#23 Posted : Tuesday, April 03, 2007 2:13:00 AM(UTC)
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[Appreciate everybody's comments and feedback...thanks for your patience. do you need to ground both elements? trying to picture running the ground wire to the base/lower rim of the keg in relation to where the rest of the wiring ties in at the couplings? What kind of drain should i use? I .went to a plumbing supply company, all they had was brass....thinking i would need something stainless to avoid any adverse effect on the mash while heating. Suggestions? stephen]
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#24 Posted : Tuesday, April 03, 2007 3:18:24 AM(UTC)
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Stephen:

Just a little screw at the bottom of the cowling, yes for both coils. Leave the green covering on the wire until and just screw the end in. You can get the stainless at http://www.buyfittingsonline.com/

Cheers
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#25 Posted : Tuesday, April 03, 2007 12:21:00 PM(UTC)
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[Ok, next round of questions, that i have tried to resolve on my own.....i will be using a dome with a 8.5 inch inner diameter, almost half inch rim/ ridge. how do i secure the dome to the boiler......internet is short on info. I have heard about using bent washers tighten it up....not much detail, pictures options ete..help. to drain the spent mash i want to install 1/2 ball valve three inchs off the bottom..only way i see doing it is a 1/2 inch half coupling threaded??? is there an easier way, is it particular valve other than being stainless, female and male adaptors? appreciate all comments, suggestions. thanks stephen]
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#26 Posted : Tuesday, April 03, 2007 2:11:00 PM(UTC)
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i would recommend a threaded half coupling of ur choice in diameter with a matching diameter threaded plug... just screw the plug into the coupling to hold liquid, remove to drain... then it could be mounted possibly ON the bottom depending on ground clearance... hope that helps a little... messing with a valve seems unnecessary to me unless you wanted to control the flow rate out of the boiler chamber.



Rob
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#27 Posted : Wednesday, April 04, 2007 1:39:00 AM(UTC)
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[Waiting on the experts to weigh in on attaching the dome to the keg......as the internet indicates.............it must be one of life's greatest mysteries....limited intel. thanks for the drain info. Any assistance? stephen]
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#28 Posted : Wednesday, April 04, 2007 2:04:48 AM(UTC)
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stephen,

you are attaching a Brewhaus or other commercial column to ur keg or did you manufacture your own column? if it is a commercially produced column, i believe it just tri-clamps onto the bung on to of the keg... maybe i am misunderstanding your setup...?

Rob
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#29 Posted : Wednesday, April 04, 2007 2:21:00 AM(UTC)
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[Ron, Thanks for the response....6-8 inch hole cut into the top of the keg, the dome, aka stainless steel mixing bowl will be affixed to the top of the keg. bowel will be inverted with column attached to the bottom of the bowl,bottom of bowel has two inch hole in the middle to accommodate the column,.....i am looking at options to attach the bowl to the keg.....common method, bent washers and carriage bolt with nut.... appreciate the assist. stephen]
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#30 Posted : Wednesday, April 04, 2007 3:49:57 AM(UTC)
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Stephen, I know exactly what you are trying to do. Drill and tap 4 holes then use ss bolts, fender washers and wing nuts. Use about 2 inch bolts and insert them from the bottom so that they are on the side of the bowl then about a one inch fender washer and a wing nut. Do not forget the gasket between the mixing bowl and the keg. I use to use 1/4 inch foam then went to a rubber gasket that I made from gasket material from a local plumbing supply. If there are any leaks when first fired up instead of cooling down and disasembling use a dough of flour and water for a quick fix until the run is over. Try stilldrinkin.com and look at the set up they have as there may be a pic of how they attached the setup you are trying to do.
Good luck.
pamike
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#31 Posted : Wednesday, April 04, 2007 5:43:00 AM(UTC)
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[Mike, appreciate the link, and the information. Can you tell me more about the gasket...i have been told to make the hole for the keg about a 1/2 inch smaller than the diameter of the rim of the bowel,not the edge of the bowl but the interior rim,? if that is the case, the gasket should fit the rim of the bowl, fit the rim of the hole, or the whole area? Heck, I am confusing myself!! mucho thanks. Concerning the gasket, i was also instructed to only use cork, but i do not want to replace it after every couple of uses? stephen]
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#32 Posted : Wednesday, April 04, 2007 9:13:22 AM(UTC)
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Stephen, my first still was the set up you are building. When I got it I recieved a roll of 1/4 inch foam insulation the type that is used for draft prevention around doors and windows. I would have to replace every other run. The gasket material I switched to and has lasted so far for about 15 runs and no signs of wear or aftertaste, etc. I have since switched to a 4 inch by 50 inch tall tower and a 40 gallon ss boiler which was the connection already on it.
The gasket material I was using is the type used on steam or hot water heating systems for the home. It was rated safe for food use and is alcohol resistant. Only about 5 dollars for a 15 inch square piece. I also used it to connect the 2 inch floor. flange to the bottom of your ss mixing bowl then used a 2 inch male adapter on the bottom of the column, so that the column could be removed from the bowl. Hope this helps.
Mike
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#33 Posted : Wednesday, April 04, 2007 10:49:17 PM(UTC)
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Hi all, back from Brazil, see everyone is still cooking!! On my keg I drilled 5/16' holes, six of them around the hole in the keg and used a 8' ss dog bowl to attach. I knotched the bowl to fit the hole pattern on the keg the ss bolts are placed thru the keg from the inside and then brazed in place, so when I take the column off the bolts stay there. The gasket that I use is cork from the auto parts store and have used it many many times and have never replaced it. Remember, the temp is not that hot so there should be no problems with leakage. the ss bowl has a 2' coupling brazed on it and the column is silver sodered on to that. Works great for me...Jimbull
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#34 Posted : Thursday, April 05, 2007 11:25:11 PM(UTC)
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I have just about that same setup. But I mounted the column a little differant check it out. The hold down clamps are made of 1 1/4' C channel cut to 1'wide and four 1/4'X 1 1/2' stainless steel bolts held in place with nilock nuts. Just tighten the wing nuts and your off and running.
You have got to like simple.

UserPostedImage
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#35 Posted : Friday, April 06, 2007 3:37:47 AM(UTC)
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samson,
let me see if'n i got this right. you drilled 4 holes, inserted 4, 1/4 inch by 1 1/2 inch bolts. secured them on the top side with nylon lock nuts. then put yer clamps made from c chanell with hole drilled in them on the bolt and followed that up with another nut to put pressure on yer bowl. now i have to say, this is the best and easiest solution i've seen so far. i really like this design. sometimes the easiest solutions elude us. i've often thought of ways to but the bowl on top but never came up with such an easy answer. thanks man, great work!
buzzman
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#36 Posted : Friday, April 06, 2007 6:35:35 AM(UTC)
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Thats it plain and simple. I seen this done many years ago my grand father use to hold the top on his pot still this way. And ever since then every still I build are all done the same way. I have two stills a 15 gal. and a 7 gal. Both have a column and a pot still head and they all mount the same. Been doing it for well over 20 years, if its not broke don't fix it.
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#37 Posted : Sunday, April 08, 2007 3:09:00 AM(UTC)
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[Thanks for everybody's assistance.....great ideas, and suggestions. A most excellent forum. stephen]
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#38 Posted : Friday, May 11, 2007 7:09:00 AM(UTC)
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[Mississippi Mike, I have been trying to locate the gasket material you reference. My plumbing supply guys have no clue what i am asking for...........help.. thanks. stephen]
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#39 Posted : Monday, May 14, 2007 1:41:00 AM(UTC)
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[To the Forum in general....searching for gasket material ideas...i have used cork in the past but it doesnt have much staying power. I have tried to locate the gasket material Mississippi Mike reccomended, but my plumbing outlet had no clue......any help would be appreciated. stephen]
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