 Rank: Newbie Groups: Registered
Joined: 12/29/2007(UTC)
Posts: 3
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I am a first time user of the PS11 and i am using the 1100W heat source i got from BrewHaus. I am having a problem with the heat source cycling. Can i do anything to keep the heat constant?
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 Rank: Senior Member Groups: Registered
Joined: 10/22/2005(UTC)
Posts: 817
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"Hello Sourmash,
I only use propane, but have read that rick has posted ways to dissable the thermostat, so it always runs wide open. I think some just turn it all the way on, and use the supplied aluminam diffuser plate to even out the heat. I have no personal experiance in this.
If you don't get better and more knowledgeable answers, I would email or call Rick at Brewhaus and get the straight."
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Rank: Newbie Groups: Registered
Joined: 12/29/2007(UTC)
Posts: 3
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I have it all the way turned on but i am still getting the same results. Do you know what ricks e-mail address is?
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Rank: Senior Member Groups: Registered
Joined: 10/22/2005(UTC)
Posts: 817
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Go to brewhaus.com and click on the contact us link. This is their website and forum. they will have an email adress, and toll free number to call.
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Rank: Newbie Groups: Registered
Joined: 3/9/2008(UTC)
Posts: 2
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" Originally Posted by: sourmash  I am a first time user of the PS11 and i am using the 1100W heat source i got from BrewHaus. I am having a problem with the heat source cycling. Can i do anything to keep the heat constant? I too had a problem with my hot plate cycling. I'm using the 1500 watt model with a homemade aluminum diffuser plate. I took the hotplate apart and changed the wiring so that the bi-metallic thermostat is bypassed. To regulate hot plate now I use a 2000 watt light dimmer I purchased from the Grainger's catalog (Athena Rotary Dimmer, Power Rating 2000 Watts, Voltage). I split a 3 wire 12 gauge extension cord I bought from Home Depot in two and put light dimmer, housed in a plastic junction box, in between the wall socket and the plug in for the hot plate. The light controller was not cheap ($107.00) but now I have infinite control of the temperature without the cycling effect. The 3 wire 12 gauge wire cord is a must to move the amperage needed for the hot plate. I suggest that you make the cord to hot plate no longer than is necessary so as to minimize voltage drop. There are still temperature fluctuations while making a run but I believe it has to do with the packing and reflux action of the column. PM me with your e-mail address if you are interested in building one."
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 Rank: Junior Member Groups: Registered
Joined: 5/20/2008(UTC)
Posts: 13
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"I tried the rheostat method on my 1100 watt water heater. It had problems with temp fluctuations.
The anser is a SCR control used for electric duct heaters. I found a Roberton Halpurn SSR120 on Ebay for $ 30.
The SCR is a variable voltage device than can increment the voltage to your heating element 1 volt at a time.
Now 'that's control' !"
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Rank: Newbie Groups: Registered
Joined: 6/17/2009(UTC)
Posts: 7
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Anyone have the process for bypassing the thermister on the 1100w plate?
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Rank: Advanced Member Groups: Registered
Joined: 3/17/2007(UTC)
Posts: 167
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Rank: Newbie Groups: Registered
Joined: 6/17/2009(UTC)
Posts: 7
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" Originally Posted by: just_me Thanks again man!"
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