 Rank: Senior Member Groups: Registered, Moderator
Joined: 7/25/2009(UTC)
Posts: 2,209
|
"This is the 3 inch to 2 inch adapter. It will also change 2 inch to 3 inch.  This is the cover clamp. It is a 360 degree clamp and extra heavy duty as is the boiler.  I thought tha some folks might like to see the excellent welding job that brewhaus did when installing my optional 1 inch NPT adapter to accept the --6 KW heating element  Keeping it simple, I will use this high tech radiator hose clamp to attach the grounding conductor when i wire in the ac line.  Now i hope i can find a wall switch box that will hold 4 switches. Because i am so pleased with the quality of the boiler, i find myself already drooling over the 3 inch tower."
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Senior Member Groups: Registered, Moderator
Joined: 7/25/2009(UTC)
Posts: 2,209
|
"With a 6 kw element at 240 volts i get 25 amps current. someone please verify this. some friends say it wont pull that much current. I wanted to use #10 wire and others say # 12 is plenty good. I need the help of someone with more understanding of current and load etc. Please advise me. any input will help me to understand what i must do.  I just found this it says use #10. Is #10 necessary ???? I will use it if it is necessary. Naturally the heavier wire will be safer. http://electrical.about.com/od/...try/a/electwiresizes.htm"
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Senior Member Groups: Registered, Moderator
Joined: 7/25/2009(UTC)
Posts: 2,209
|
"I'm also thinking that using breakers instead of switches will be safer and stronger. i was hoping th set it up so i could change from 120 to 240 with one single switch but i dont like the wiring that i come up with. i really dont have too much experience with this switching thing. I guess i should have said any experience. Btw, the breakers will be just for switches. The current overload breakers will be in the breaker panel. I'm just trying to come up with a lay out. ill show you my chicken scratch drawing if you dont laugh too much.  The 3 wires leaving the box go to the heat element and the grounding conductor will be connected to the NPT coupling the top 2 are the 2 lines for the 240 volts the bottom line is the bare wire for the 120 volts which is connected the the green grounding conductor in the 240 volt wires. Both are connected to the grounding conductor to the boiler The 2 above the bare wire are the black and white for the 120 volt line. As you can see the box is not idiot proof and both voltages can be switched on at the same time.  a no no which i dont like.  "
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Senior Member Groups: Registered
Joined: 10/22/2005(UTC)
Posts: 817
|
"Hi Scotty,
I too have been thinking of rigging an electric line and boiler for winter time usage. I have cathedral ceiling and a wet bar for water and drainage.
#12 wire would work for a short run. Like you, I would opt for the #10. I would use 3 way wire. Also for safety, simplicity, and to make my unit easily portable, hidden away, I would forger the switches and just use 2 heavy duty outlets with a plug leading to the boiler. One outlet wired 240, the other 120. Can't short circuit it by accidentaly switching both switches on at the same time. Or else a 240 V router speed control or simular for better control. Seems like 1500 W is going to be a lot when you insulate everything and an internal heat source? It would give you a lot more control over your distillation process. I have 2 of the HC columns so whenever I find the time to make a run which is sometimes hard for me to do, I can run 2 runs at the same time. Now I'm drooling over that keg!"
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Senior Member Groups: Registered, Moderator
Joined: 7/25/2009(UTC)
Posts: 2,209
|
"I only want the box because it would be fun to build. The setup will definitely have 2 recepticles mounted on the wall. one for 120 and the 0ther for 240. the 120 volt line will have my variac in it and after the boiler reaches temp i would switch from 240 to 120 and even regulate it more with the variac. i will use the plug changing method if i cant find a DPDT relay which will simplify the job.
I intend to triple insulate the boiler. i was thinking of puttin on 2 layers and then running the wire from the heat element under the third layer just for neatness. any thoughts on that.
om still searching for a double pole double throw switch to use. I remember there being plenty in the air conditioning field."
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Senior Member Groups: Registered, Moderator
Joined: 7/25/2009(UTC)
Posts: 2,209
|
"I think this relay is the simple answer. ill use a toggle switch to activate it. http://download.siliconexpert.c...04_sec3_pg04-06_w199.pdf"
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Senior Member Groups: Registered, Moderator
Joined: 7/25/2009(UTC)
Posts: 2,209
|
"I just came from home depot  67 dollars worth of parts so far. then the relay is 28 an ill need another 40 dollars in plugs and recepticles. its adding up"
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Senior Member Groups: Registered, Moderator
Joined: 7/25/2009(UTC)
Posts: 2,209
|
"OOPS  the heating element is too long. I just ordered a couple of pieces so i can just screw in the extra length needed.:)"
|
|
|
|
|
|
 Rank: Junior Member Groups: Registered
Joined: 11/25/2009(UTC)
Posts: 143
|
"As long as #12 wire doesn't start getting warm to the touch it should be good enough.
I would use buss drop cable anyway for the flexability."
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Senior Member Groups: Registered, Moderator
Joined: 7/25/2009(UTC)
Posts: 2,209
|
" Originally Posted by: old stump juicer  As long as #12 wire doesn't start getting warm to the touch it should be good enough.
I would use buss drop cable anyway for the flexability. i purchased # 10 flexable and jacket in black. it has 3 wire in it----thats whats in the photo."
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Senior Member Groups: Registered, Moderator
Joined: 7/25/2009(UTC)
Posts: 2,209
|
" Originally Posted by: mtnwalker2 Hi Scotty,
I too have been thinking of rigging an electric line and boiler for winter time usage. I have cathedral ceiling and a wet bar for water and drainage.
#12 wire would work for a short run. Like you, I would opt for the #10. I would use 3 way wire. Also for safety, simplicity, and to make my unit easily portable, hidden away, I would forger the switches and just use 2 heavy duty outlets with a plug leading to the boiler. One outlet wired 240, the other 120. Can't short circuit it by accidentaly switching both switches on at the same time. Or else a 240 V router speed control or simular for better control. Seems like 1500 W is going to be a lot when you insulate everything and an internal heat source? It would give you a lot more control over your distillation process. I have 2 of the HC columns so whenever I find the time to make a run which is sometimes hard for me to do, I can run 2 runs at the same time. Now I'm drooling over that keg! Just a note on the electric items. the variac and the switch are separate items and niether one is attached to the boiler. im using some very heave plug/receptac;e combos."
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Senior Member Groups: Registered, Moderator
Joined: 7/25/2009(UTC)
Posts: 2,209
|
" Originally Posted by: old stump juicer As long as #12 wire doesn't start getting warm to the touch it should be good enough.
I would use buss drop cable anyway for the flexability. I had to look up buss drop cable-- i guessi purchased that by accident. I was definitely looking for flexability and a covered cable. still learning "
|
|
|
|
|
|
Forum Jump
You cannot post new topics in this forum.
You cannot reply to topics in this forum.
You cannot delete your posts in this forum.
You cannot edit your posts in this forum.
You cannot create polls in this forum.
You cannot vote in polls in this forum.
