"

If you show yours, I''ll show mine"

"Here she is, Haven't given her a name yet but working on it. I built this reflux all from scratch, a Sheet Metal company I use rolled the Stainless Boiler for me, A Plumbing Company I use provided all the Copper for the Column, and I welded it all together.Of course I owe everyone a sample or 2. Found the drawings and Specificatios on the Website below. I have since added a thermometer in the bottom section of the Boiler

http://www.moonshine-still.com/page2.htm"

Heeler that looks pretty cool, I will probably go electric later. I'm going to check into the controls some more. Right now I am using my fish fryer burner with a LPG Needle vavle on it, I can keep it within 5 degs. I would like to have a full keg of that Foster though, LOL

OK Scotty, where is yours?

"



I use the same towers for both. the tower in the picture has been extended by one foot so i can pack that portion with coper mesh. they both are internally heated now."

"

I set the variac back to 90 volts and can controll the drip rate very easily. I am sold on voltage control devices.
it is so steady that You can fall asleep waiting for the temperature to change.

I just purchased one of those remote thermometers so i can watch tv or read in a comfortable spot instead of stareing at the temperature waiting for it to rise.

all of the gizmos are because i got the variac un wired and untested from ebay for $40. I built my present system around that.
I think the ideal setup would be internal 240 volt elements with a 240 volt variac but this is my toy for now.


Well at present, i am having a 6X20 ft deck constructed. the main purpose being a place to run the stills and mashing operation.
The deck has 2 direct line recepticles. One is 120 volts and the other is 240 volts


The 2 gadjets you see are designed to work in conjunction and both have a volt and ammeter.

The little box will plug into both the 240 and 120 volt outlets. A switching relay in the box changes the output voltage from 240 to 120 when i reach about 170 degrees. ((IT IS MANUALLY SWITCHED FOR NOW)) maybe at a later date i will wire in the PID control.

The brewhaus still has a 6kw/240 volt element which naturally will run on 120 vots at 1/4 rated wattage.

The variac is a 120 volt device so it is plugged in series with the 120 volt line only.
I have found that when i reach temp. going back to 90 volts seems to work for my rigs. i tweak the voltage a bit as the operation progresses."

"HEY SPARKY
Please tell/show me how or what you used to seal the top on your rig. I am trying to think of what to use for my stock pot rigs. i intend to build a small one too. about 4 gallons.

I dont want to use flour. My left hand is not as operational as i would like it to be so i need something permanant/easily installed actually that comes off with the lid or stays with the pot. as a sealer if i can find something.:)"

Scotty, here is a picture of the material that I am using, it is a white rubber that is suppose to be good to 200 degs. and it is FDA Approve for food use. I know I am pushing it's limits, but if it works ok I won't have to go to a high heat silicone. This rubber material is real plyable and easy to seal off when you tighten it down. I will let you know how it works out, making a batch this Friday.

"Its also in my gallery.

Although It has been modified from this version a bit.

The stubby column section atop the larger the in-line thumper is now a 4"" peice of copper rather than the 1.5 in the pic.

Figger'd you fellers seen it by now?"

"I know when i went from an external 1500 watt hot plate to a 1500 watt internal element, it originally took 1.5 hours to heat up the 7 gallon boiler. it usually takes me 2.5 hours to get the 6.5 gallon boiler up to the
170 deg.F./prox 78C> range


So far 1 hour saved but at 120 volts only--- when i finally get rigged to use 240 volts and 6kw internal for heat up i guess the heat up time will be much less.

I wonder how quickly the B.R. gets his rig up to temperature with that blast furnace that he uses "