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Offline tbrant1969  
#1 Posted : Thursday, January 13, 2011 9:28:28 AM(UTC)
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I just got an Essential Extractor Pro series II distiller and can't decide if I should try to run it with my turkey fryer propane system or spend the money for a 1500 watt hotplate. Any suggestions?
Offline Bayou-Ruler  
#2 Posted : Thursday, January 13, 2011 10:01:15 AM(UTC)
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"
Originally Posted by: tbrant1969 Go to Quoted Post
I just got an Essential Extractor Pro series II distiller and can't decide if I should try to run it with my turkey fryer propane system or spend the money for a 1500 watt hotplate. Any suggestions?


Go Propane!

Here is the burner I use""

UserPostedImage"
Bayou Ethanol
AFP-LA-15027
www.bayouethanol.com
Offline scotty  
#3 Posted : Thursday, January 13, 2011 11:44:04 PM(UTC)
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"I used the hotplate but it should not be used as is. It must be modified and then you need at least a router speed control to vary the input voltage so you can control the applied heat when the boiler reaches production temperatures.
Eventuall you will want to upgrade to either internal heat or propane.

I believe that the propane unit that BR showed you is very good because it is infinitely variable heat but also is extremely powerfull and will shorten the heat up time.
--there are other options like a turkey fryer burner and the like. Less powerfull but options."
Offline tbrant1969  
#4 Posted : Friday, January 14, 2011 1:17:38 AM(UTC)
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Just as I thought. My propane system is very similar to the one BR has shown. Thanks for the advice gentlemen!
Offline Bret  
#5 Posted : Monday, July 11, 2011 2:08:11 PM(UTC)
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I have been trying to figure out if an induction burner could be used. It is a bit more energy efficiant, and they rate up to 18000 watts, but won't induce heat into stainless. O considered placing a steel diffusion plate under my still. Also curious about weight constraints, I have a 15 gallon, and with 10 gallons, the hotplate wasuner some strain and bowing out the sides of the burner
Offline Paracelsus  
#6 Posted : Wednesday, July 13, 2011 6:59:36 AM(UTC)
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"
Originally Posted by: scotty Go to Quoted Post
I used the hotplate but it should not be used as is. It must be modified and then you need at least a router speed control to vary the input voltage so you can control the applied heat when the boiler reaches production temperatures.


Do you have any further information on these modifications?
Is there a post about it elsewhere on the forum?

Thanks,"
Offline div4gold  
#7 Posted : Wednesday, July 13, 2011 12:20:29 PM(UTC)
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"
Originally Posted by: Paracelsus Go to Quoted Post
Do you have any further information on these modifications?
Is there a post about it elsewhere on the forum?

Thanks,


Really all you need to do is to bypass the thermostat, you can do that by removing the bottom plate and unplugging the feed wire going to the thermostat and plugging that into the connector on the heating element where the wire from the working side of the thermostat has been removed. The plate will then be on High all the time with no cycling. The alcohol content in your cooker will determine the temp. anyway. If you are running reflux then you control the temp with the water flow to the column. Bypassing the thermostat will save you about an hour on initial heat up because there will be no cycling. Don't forget to unplug it when you are finished :)"
Offline carlsgems  
#8 Posted : Friday, July 22, 2011 12:56:06 PM(UTC)
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I went from stove top to a large portable hot plate and was watching it cycle on and off. div4gold mentioned the method of bypassing the thermostat, I tried the cooking went up in 20 minutes or so, kept my eye on the thermometer and started getting results at appx. 178 or so. When the temp went over 185 I stopped collecting. Prior to the bypass the pot was on the burner for and hour and a half, the forum had the solution.
Offline LWTCS  
#9 Posted : Saturday, July 23, 2011 4:11:14 AM(UTC)
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(assuming we are taking liquid temp at the boiler)At the 185 degree mark you should have still been collecting within the 30% abv range...You may have left some good alcohol in the boiler....Or not.
Lots of gents collect to perhaps 192-195. If that was your vapor temp,,,,,you left a boat load of alcohol behind.

One noted strategy (when pot stilling) is to collect down off of your boiler charge of wash till your aggregate abv is 35-40%. Then diluting for the spirit run will not be necessary.......Or you can dilute with more wash too...The goal being flavor retention,,,,,,if thats your cup of tea.

A good controller (not thermostat) is a real game changer.

Do you have a parrot and an Alchometer help you gauge your progress during your runs?
Offline Paracelsus  
#10 Posted : Saturday, July 23, 2011 1:08:16 PM(UTC)
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"Thanks for all the replies.

Any recommendations on a ""controller""?"
Offline LWTCS  
#11 Posted : Saturday, July 23, 2011 1:44:36 PM(UTC)
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"I run a MK5500. It is rock solid.

Mulekicker over at HD be happy to help ya with a build or set ya straight with a turn key solution."
Offline carlsgems  
#12 Posted : Sunday, July 24, 2011 4:06:13 AM(UTC)
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I am new a reflux about all I know is that during reflux the vapors keep recollecting until they are forced into the condensor. Is running it full bore and collecting at 178F only wasting go juice. I am using the reflux column from brewhaus and the way it is set up you control the reflux at the source by temp control and once the vapor gets past that it is condensed. Is a controller needed when temp is controlled at the reflux? I have read that the better tasting product is distiller long and slow. Any input would be appreciated, I want to get pointed in the right direction, a few senior members ave helped and have been spot on so far so the control issue being on the column or at the heat source, one better then another or is it just preference?
Offline LWTCS  
#13 Posted : Monday, July 25, 2011 12:07:18 PM(UTC)
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"Hi Carl.
Good control over your heat input is a real game changer. Weather you are using propane or electric.
I have read that some folks prefer to heat their mashes up slow for flavor,,,,,,but ya mostly gotta be mindful of scortching...specially if you are stilling on the grain.......But you are running a reflux rig,, and likely just a sugar wash,,,,, so most just heat as quick as they can then turn down the heat for the body of the run. Only so much time in the day before the kiddiewinkles demand attentionBlushing.

Insulating your rig can increase efficiency too. You will have to find your own comfort zone for how much fuel/input you are willing to expell for your runs...

With a packed column ya can't run with too little heat as ya need to produce reflux....More reflux=higher abv.... If yer column is packed properly then you'll get a good wetted surface on yer packing and get a nice pure product....But be mindful that ya don't go willy nilly on the reflux and flood yer column.

I would recommend a goodly 100% reflux period for you coulmn so that your fractions can stack nice and orderly like good little soldiers.Then draw your heads off kinds slowly....Then 100% reflux for 10 or 15 more minutes. Then start collecting product. Head temp should stay nice and stable. Adjust you power and cooling accordingly.

I'm a pot stiller at heart. Others can explain column operation better than me."
Offline carlsgems  
#14 Posted : Monday, July 25, 2011 12:33:02 PM(UTC)
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I am probably going for flavor as much as I can with the reflux. Is there a way to get it cranked up to start the action and then use a controller to keep er steady for a constant product. The first reflux I did I had both the column and the condenser being chilled by ice water and had a high abv on a test batch of sugar, cornmeal and the turbo yeast, just a partial package though. I guess some experimenting is in order to see what workes best. I had the hot plate on high the whole time and collected only the middle run at 178 deg. I know know that I should keep the heads and tails to add to the next run and get the most out of the the process. Thanks for the advice, looking for something that can be aged and sipped over ice with a smooth warm feelin. I had some back woods N Carolina shine that when I first got it was fiery but a few months of sittin up was like nectar, smooth and warm.
Offline LWTCS  
#15 Posted : Tuesday, July 26, 2011 11:25:51 AM(UTC)
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"So for the most flavor:
*Stop using turbo yeast.
*Pull all the packing out of your column.
*No reflux.
*Try and adjust your heat so that your stll pisses a toothpic sized unbroken stream. You may find that the brew house product condenser may struggle to keep up while running in pot still mode."
Offline carlsgems  
#16 Posted : Tuesday, July 26, 2011 1:54:39 PM(UTC)
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I see your point. I should use it in pot still mode, it is a two part column that top condenser can be use on the boiler by it self with only coolant going through the condenser. This is where heat control comes in, slow down the flow by controlling the element output, take a bit more time and extract only the heart of the nectar. I guess this would need to be made from mash worthy of the time to complete the project?
Offline LWTCS  
#17 Posted : Tuesday, July 26, 2011 11:11:59 PM(UTC)
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Yes, a good recipe and collect with small jars maybe,,,, 250 ml per jar. let your jars air over night so that you can find the best likker. Start at your center jar and work your way out to either side.
Offline Capt Dan  
#18 Posted : Thursday, August 11, 2011 1:41:39 PM(UTC)
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I just got the same distiller, have you tried the propane yet?? I think I am going to go that route, this is all new to me. How long can one expect it to run a 5gal batch through??
Offline carlsgems  
#19 Posted : Friday, August 12, 2011 4:12:38 AM(UTC)
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I have been able to get my 5 to 7 gallon heated up in about 2 hours. I recommend having it ready the night before so all you have to do is plug it in and start. once it is heated up it takes appx. 5 to 6 hours to distill. I have a 1100 watt eye and took out the thermostat so heat is always on. If you do not do this you will be all day trying to get it heated up. I just bought a 1500 cast iron element eye and I will post results after I try it. I would use propane but I am indoors and do not want a flame while getting very flammable liquid. Brehaus has the 1500 watt eye and from what i read it is the way to go indoors. Oh yes to the cooling set up is a definite tweak. The column water flow keep to a minimum and let the condenser go full flow. When my water is going on full at the column I get very little liquid and can see the temp going up and down. Of course with a better heat source I think I might have better results and purer production. I am getting 120 abv to 160 abv. Just having fun and the senior member have been super in advice and gave a hand up in getting me in the right direction, div4gold and heeler know what they are talking about and one fella, I think mtnman is a good pot stiller for advice. I have tried both ways and it is all about temp and water control for the temp.
Offline LWTCS  
#20 Posted : Friday, August 12, 2011 3:09:17 PM(UTC)
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Originally Posted by: carlsgems Go to Quoted Post
I have been able to get my 5 to 7 gallon heated up in about 2 hours. I recommend having it ready the night before so all you have to do is plug it in and start.


Well clear'd washes only when pre charging yer boiler the day before......
Dirty wash gonna drop suspended solids to the bottom of yer boiler and you'll risk a good scortching,,,,,,,,or not.

Course yer likely safe with a two hour heat up on 7 gallons. Give a good swirl before ya fire it to be safe.
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