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Joined: 2/10/2002(UTC)
Posts: 5,254
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"Ok lets get in the discussion mode here..lol. As everybody in town knows I got a face to face interrogation interview with Rick who peddles the Brewhaus line of wares. I hate to be redundant but at my age it cant helped..lol. Rick says...and he even posted on here about it.. the whole column is part of the reflux mechanism and should not be insulated unless a person lives near my Girlfriend Sara P. up in Moose Jaw Alaska or Wasilla maybe? Meaning as the vapors climb the nekked tower and lose heat to the outside atmosphere..it dumps them back into the boiler by use of magic or gravity etc. This gives a break to the part which actually does the refluxing. It makes that part work less strenuously. Now how do this conflict or concur with the refluxing at the top theory? Thanks. Originally Posted by: LWTCS  Gonna get yer best behavior if the reflux is induced at the top. It will be more helpful for establishing a more naturally occurring equilibrium and quality separation.
Cooling lines mounted low will promote smearing as constituents with lower boiling points will be prematurely condensed and dropped back into the boiler... "
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 Rank: Newbie Groups: Registered
Joined: 4/19/2013(UTC)
Posts: 8
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" Originally Posted by: laneflash That design is dangerous for the very reason that you had to ask! It should have been made very clear in the plans that the condenser top is not sealed. It has to breath. If you closed both needle valves, where would the pressure go as the gasses expand? Also, if you shut the heat off on a hot boiler and then closed the two valves, where would it draw air in as it cooled, if the unit was air tight? The gasses will not escape if the condenser is working correctly and you have the appropriate amount of heat. Which leads me to the design.
The design is OK but I would recommend a couple changes. Buy a 3"" cap for the condenser, but drill a 1/2"" hole in the top for venting. Sand the inside of the cap and top of the condenser as to give the cap a lose fit. Drill two more holes in the top of the cap for your coolant inlet and outlet. I put barbed fittings at that point for hose removable. Make your coil(1/4""tubing) and fasten it to the fittings in the cap. Now, you have a condenser coil that can be lifted in and out of the condenser for easy cleaning, storage, inspection,and repair. Also column insulation if very important and the plan looks cool but the coolant lines soldered along the column get in the way of insulation!
One other problem with the design is cooling capacity. The small size at the base of the condenser does not allow for enough coiling coils. Instead of buying a 2x2x1 1/2' ""T"" (as in the plans) for the column, buy a 2x2x2"" ""T"". Buy a 2x4x4"" ""T"" for the condenser. Then buy a 4""x2""reducer and solder that to the bottom of the ""T"". The 2"" cap(at the bottom of the condenser) should be soldered with no space between it and the reducer. (Use a short 2"" nipple.) Now, when you form the condenser coil, there is enough room to get the coils down to the bottom 2"" cap. That will keep things cooler! Again, that is all removable by lifting it out of the top of the condenser.
One other alteration might be to add a 2"" union at the base of the column. Then you can store, clean and handle the tower with ease. You can also buy a second 2"" union and add it to a ""column extension"". Make it as long as you like. Just put it between the boiler union and the tower union.
Good Luck I like the changes, but can't visualze the change in the T's Do you have a picture or a drawing I can follow?"
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