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I see a lot of talk about pulling stoves out to fit the still under etc, and changing from this cooker to that cooker at various stages of distilation........ Well heres a simple little fixit....... I use an 1800 watt hotwater system element mounted in the boiler , controlled by a simmerstat , the same sort that controls the hotplate on an electric stove, an idea that I gave to a mate who was going to do the same thing was to fit an element from an urn , as it comes with a plug fitting . In my oppinion, the easiest way of doing it.
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Rank: Guest
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just as a foot note........ I run a valved reflux stil with a capacity of 20 liters and average 2 1/2 - 3 liters of spirit at 80 % abv per run
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http://doityourself.com/store/6437305.htm That is one that looks good, you can run 2 if you use different circuts in your house. You can weld in a bung, or I am guessing that you can use a lot of cork gasket material to seal it up with just a simple bolt. That is what I am planning atleast! Boil it up with both elements, then drop to one.
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Rank: Guest
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Joined: 2/10/2002(UTC)
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I read of hot-water heating elements 'exploding' inside the still. I don't think this is exactly what happened. More likely what really happened was the 'calrod' material simply burned out because too much heat built up at a point where solid particles in the 'wash' stuck to the 'element'. My question is, is it even possible to run fruit or grain based mash in a still heated by this method, without 'burning' the element? I am building a new still and want to use an internal heater if I can, but I am afraid to take the chance. Has anyone tried this and how well did it work? In my system plan to simply install a stock ,off-the-shelf, 2kw hot water heating element and thermostat ,which I will probably have to modify to get up to the heat I will need, in a 20 liter Pot still to 'cook-off' my brew.
I'd appreciate any suggestions or comments.
Thanks,
SpiritMaker
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