Rank: Advanced Member Groups: Registered
Joined: 8/17/2008(UTC) Posts: 424
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Has anyone found a good source for SS half couplings to fit wh elements into a keg?
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Rank: Senior Member Groups: Registered, Moderator Joined: 4/14/2010(UTC) Posts: 1,666
Was thanked: 15 time(s) in 15 post(s)
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ratflinger, have you tried McMasters-Carr???? I just checked the site and found them.
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Rank: Advanced Member Groups: Registered
Joined: 8/17/2008(UTC) Posts: 424
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Yeah, but they aren't NPT they are that conical thread.
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Rank: Senior Member Groups: Registered, Moderator Joined: 4/14/2010(UTC) Posts: 1,666
Was thanked: 15 time(s) in 15 post(s)
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"ratflinger, did you find a ss coupling?? Or are gonna use a copper fitting?? and are you gonna try to weld (solder) that coupling to your keg. And did you find a copper fitting to fit a heating element?? I know I'm being nosey but i wanna biuld another one for a buddy, thanks in advance."
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Rank: Advanced Member Groups: Registered
Joined: 8/17/2008(UTC) Posts: 424
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"I went ahead & got the 2"" ferrels from Brewhaus & the tri-clamp fitting from Hillbilly. I'm in the process of welding the ferrel on. I have a couple of leaks in the welding so I'm going to grind those off & try again. SS is such a bitch.
I don't know how rad is getting that copper fitting to work, the one I have will not accept the element fully. There really is a thread difference."
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Rank: Senior Member Groups: Registered, Moderator Joined: 4/14/2010(UTC) Posts: 1,666
Was thanked: 15 time(s) in 15 post(s)
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"ratflinger, i found that the copper fitting (1 inch) did work with a heating element. Now with that said it would not fit ALL the heating elements that I tried. It would ONLY except the 4500 watt. I just picked up the element and took it with me to the copper coupling area and tried each one until I found one that would fit ( Lowes). Then I used a 1-1/4 inch bi-metal hole drill to cut the keg. Then I tried something new ( to me at least) I brazed that copper to my keg and I think thats gonna work. Dont know if it will leak until I do a cleaning cookout, but I couldn''t get back up to my buddies place so I thought what the hell, lets try and whalaa........... Think about trying that brazing thing -- it was pretty easy."
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Rank: Senior Member Groups: Registered, Moderator Joined: 4/14/2010(UTC) Posts: 1,666
Was thanked: 15 time(s) in 15 post(s)
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Again, I did'nt look for npt, or npts or anything like that, you know that thread thing, I just tried the element with the coupling and found the one that worked. I guess I'm kinda ghetto after all.
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Rank: Advanced Member Groups: Registered
Joined: 8/17/2008(UTC) Posts: 424
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"Well my 4500 came from HD, but it is the camco <sp>?!? So I would assume it's the same. Don't know why there would be a difference, but I 'm not disputing you. The element fits the 2"" fitting from Hillbilly just fine, but not the copper - don't know what to say, except that sh!t happens.
I'll grind off the bad weld & try again. In the mean time I'm doing it the tried & true, old & slow method with my 1500w hot plate - works & I just sit on the back porch, drinking wine & reading my Kindle - life could be worse!"
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Rank: Senior Member Groups: Registered, Moderator Joined: 4/14/2010(UTC) Posts: 1,666
Was thanked: 15 time(s) in 15 post(s)
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Ok so a little more info on the SS fitting...I ordered 2 of these from Duda Diesel, the thread was NPT (National Pipe Thread) and they DO fit water heating element thread. I had the coupling in my hand and went to Lowes and tried 6 diff sizes of element and everyone fit. I know I said I used a 1 inch copper coupling and I did, but I dropped my boiler and of course it landed right on the element and cracked the weld, and of course I did'nt know that until it was full and in the heatup mode. Then the drips started...arhhhhh. Well I cut that out and had the SS tig welded on. Really pretty now and no leaks. Ok-- so I told you that, so I could tell you this...I wanted a half coupling but no go ( half coup. $9 dollars - whole $11) I ordered the whole and cut them in half --do the math. The right piece for the job is always better than making do with whatever. I did'nt have to cut it but 2 for the price of one, way cool. Anyway hope this helps somebody.
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Rank: Senior Member Groups: Registered, Moderator Joined: 4/14/2010(UTC) Posts: 1,666
Was thanked: 15 time(s) in 15 post(s)
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"Again..... Duda Diesel 1 inch SS coupling NPT thread $11 a piece +shipping I'm sure they can be found somewhere else but this is where I found them.
And they DO fit water heating element thread."
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Rank: Junior Member Groups: Registered
Joined: 1/9/2012(UTC) Posts: 10
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On my latest still. I cut the treads directly into the SS boiler. NPT taps are tapered, so it's easy to make the hole a perfect match to the heater. Be careful and don't go to far. Wrap the heater threads with plumbers tap and install. I used a home made copper washer for the outside and a copper jam-nut, made from a fitting on the inside.
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Rank: Advanced Member Groups: Registered
Joined: 1/16/2010(UTC) Posts: 453
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So you were able to get a good seal . I was wondering since the boiler is no doubt round? What did you use for the boiler?
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Rank: Junior Member Groups: Registered
Joined: 1/9/2012(UTC) Posts: 10
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"The SS boiler is 12"" diameter, 24"" tall and around 1/8"" thick. Looks like a big cornelius keg with wheels and a handle. The copper washer is crescent shaped on one side and flat on the other. The tape and tight fit supply the seal. The jam-nut is for insurance. Its not the best way but I can always modify it in the future. In a previous still, I welded in a SS NPS half coupling and it warped. The tap had a very difficult time cleaning up the treads. Next time I'll weld in a 1-1/2 NPT fitting and make a copper bushing to adapt down to a 1"" NPS. I'm running a 5500w heating element made out of inconel. With a ssvr-40va home made controller. My previous still is now my thumper."
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