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Ok..I'm in a bit of quandry here. I found a 1" screw in type 120 volt electric water heater element from a plumbing supply place online. The details say it has NPSM threads: National Pipe Straight Mechanical...but does not mention it being compatible with other thread types. Notice the lock nuts from McMaster-Karr which I plan on screwing the element into via the keg wall..have NPSL threads (National Pipe Straight Locknut), which it goes on to say is compatible with NPT threads. I'm aferred them puppies aint going to match up. Anybody got some thoughts on this? Thanks.
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The part number at McMaster-Carr was 4464K586. I know that it fit a standard water heater element (110v, 1500w, less than $10) from Lowes.
Or, you could order the locknut, wait till it arrives and escort it down to HD or Lowes or Ace and see what it fits.
I did it the other way around but that's just me.
Muadib
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Thats the part number I was looking at just thought I would spring an extra buck for the 316 grade SS. I'm guessing maybe they make those elements with different thread types. Maybe I hit an exotic version but noticed none of the other sites even bothered to mention what kind of threads they had. Maybe the majority are NPT compliant.
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Ok thanks for all your help. You are becoming a real assest on this project. Now I got to researching a bit here and there and seems to be all kinds of risky schemes afloat out in the world how to make this element fit through the side of the keg. Seen a few sites advocating cutting the top out of the keg in order to mount the locknut from the inside...then they come up with all these artistic electrician controller panels etc. What a deal huh? It seemed to be coming mostly from the trouble making beer meisters who trying to use it for a wort boiler. What I am now trying to figure out is...in mounting a flat object onto a curved surface. One fella say you have to flatten out the keg in that area by use of a short piece of two by four and a hammer so the locknut can be welded flat to the side. Now do you know anything about this aspect of the procedure? Did you do that to yours? Can a good drunk welder cover up the gap in case it dont fit right and without distorting the keg? Sorry to be so pesky on this subject. I just want to have all my ducks in a row when I try to splain to the drunk welder on how to do it right:) Originally Posted by: muadib2001  The part number at McMaster-Carr was 4464K586. I know that it fit a standard water heater element (110v, 1500w, less than $10) from Lowes.
Or, you could order the locknut, wait till it arrives and escort it down to HD or Lowes or Ace and see what it fits.
I did it the other way around but that's just me.
Muadib
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Originally Posted by: bigwheel What I am now trying to figure out is...in mounting a flat object onto a curved surface. One fella say you have to flatten out the keg in that area by use of a short piece of two by four and a hammer so the locknut can be welded flat to the side. Now do you know anything about this aspect of the procedure? Did you do that to yours? Can a good drunk welder cover up the gap in case it dont fit right and without distorting the keg? I didn't use the 2x4, but yes, I did use a hammer. I just banged on it a few times, placed the locknut on the spot and checked it to see if it wobbled. Then I banged on it a couple more times and then the locknut would lay flat. That stainless steel is tough. My welder guy did a great job, just some discoloration from the heat. It appeared that he added metal to join the pieces, with no gaps. Just make certain that he centers the nut over the hole. And that the groove for the gasket is to the outside. Muadib
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Well thanks for those additional factoids. Now I thought the object of the game was to mount the washer first then drill inside of it with a step drill. Now we got the welder trying to center the washer over the hole. Did my choo choo jump the tracks somewhere? lol.
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Nope, you did perfectly fine. The element threads do not go past the locknut, so you should be good.
I also installed a thermowell in my keg, so locknut (1/2" in this case) placement was even more critical. But the welder did a superb job.
Muadib
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Thanks for the clarification. Haven't done anything to it yet. Still trying to get the ducks in a row before opening fire. Now what is a thermowell? Maybe I need one of those too.
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Originally Posted by: bigwheel Now what is a thermowell? Maybe I need one of those too. Well, I don't use a router speed controller. I use a Ranco ETC unit ( http://www.amazon.com/RANCO-ETC...id=1333115704&sr=8-1) to just turn on/off my heating element based on the temperature. It has a probe that tells the unit what the temp is, but you cannot immerse the probe in liquid. So you must install a sealed tube into the side of the keg, or a thermowell ( http://www.amazon.com/Thermowel...id=1333115905&sr=8-5). The thermowell uses the same type of threads as the heating element, but just a different size ( http://www.amazon.com/Stainless...id=1333116002&sr=8-1). The heating element has a gasket to make its seal, but the thermowell requires the yellow teflon thread tape (plumbing area in Lowes, HD, Ace). I'm actually considering moving over to the router speed controller due to the fact that I can more closely dial in the heat with it. With the Ranco ETC unit, it's either on or off. But the Ranco ETC unit does not get hot either. Muadib
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Well I was discussing some of these issues with the drunk welder and the drunk Mr. Fixit guy just today. Boys afternoon to meet at the local watering hole blah blah blah. Mr. Fixit recommened a thermostat on element two might be a good plan...then he was wanting to rewire my hooch making shed for 220. Course I tole him he was crazy. The welder say to bring him two elements I want to fit in there along with the keg and he can do the rest. I hang out with some hard headed know it all types apparently:) I still aint heard nothing out of the plumber who is supposed to be building the still. Hope he dont spank my wallet too hard on that deal.
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Two elements, huh?
A 120v 1500w element is about 11 amps.
A 120v 2000w element is about 17 amps.
You'd better have some serious wire going to that place!
I also put in a GFCI circuit on mine. Can't hurt...
Muadib
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Wiring is fair I guess. Have one 15 amp circuit with two outlets..then a 20 amp circuit with one outlet which was specifically designed to run a small room air conditioner. I was figgering one element to each circuit. Thinking of using 1500 watt elements which is the same as the BH hot plate which has not had any problems running on the 15 amp circuit as of yet..knock on wood. Lol. Dont think I have the GFI unless its built into the breakers. No reset buttons on the outlet anyway.
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