Well when u say heating element are you refering to --internal water heating element??? If so any that will fit the thread on your boiler will do. SS is very unnecessary but if thats what you want then sobeit. Lowes and HD carry lots that will do just fine.

"ChefKdub,
Well I've made several boilers with internal elements from the local building stores and I haven't woke up dead yet. All they do is heat up the liquid in the cooker (just like in your water heater and we drink that) so I have to think its ok to use any that fit the threads. Now with that said I do always get new, and after several uses I checked on one and it looked a little darker but did'nt look disasterously ugly. --- is that really a word -- anyway in my opinion its alright so go with it bro."

Prob need to go read the FAQ or something..or at least start a new thread..but..yall got me craving one of the internal heating elements real bad. Bad boys. Then it dawned on me I have a free welder who knows about migs and tigs etc. Now kindly tell an ignorant person do these gizmos run on 110 or 220? I got the former but not the latter. Now I heard one guy nagging on here I think because with a full load his could not boil water. There was a whole thread on that one seems like. Half loads is more than plenty for me and my pals and kin thus far anyway. Seems like the bourbon jars require refilling more quickly these days..lol. Now do a person need some kind of expensive and complicated electrical controller mechanism to make this deal work? Thanks.

Hey! I represent that!

I only used one 1500w 110v element. It was very close to the bottom of the keg. Basically, I just positioned the stainless steel locknut on a flat area near the bottom and marked my spot. Drilled the hole with a step drill bit and then took it to the welder guy (and yes, he did look at me sorta funny).

The element I used did not reach halfway in, so I suppose you could mount another directly opposite and at the same height.

But for me, one element was all my circuit could handle. I read somewhere that the element took 11 amps to power. And I tapped into the dishwasher circuit (20a) to power my rig. Two elements would be too much.

I did the sacrificial run with a box of cheap wine. Finally figured out that the uninsulated lyne arm was my problem. Once I insulated it, then the stuff started pouring out (that's because I was at 208 degrees).

I haven't run anything else because I'm still waiting for the SLOW EC-1118 yeast to finish its stupid ferment! 41/2 weeks now!

Muadib

I like the one that Hillbilly Stills has the TG5500 I think it will run off 220 or 110.

I heard of one fellow that plugs one element into the wall straight, no controller. When the unit gets up to temp, he unplugs it and just relies on the other one with the router control to maintain the temp. Since you're just using part of the electrical energy for the element with the router control at less than 100%, the router control has to shed that energy somehow. I think it uses a heat sink. That's why it gets so hot. Make certain your router control is at least 20 amp.


Just prior to the condenser. It can rise at a 45 degree angle to provide a reflux of sorts. On a pot still, the upward angle will force the output to have less flavor. A downward angle will provide a fuller flavor.


Negative. I found mine at McMaster-Carr PN#4464K586 and later on, at Amazon (http://www.amazon.com/Stainless...id=1332726540&sr=1-2 [I think it was 1"]). Remember, the water heater element you buy just screws into the water heater tank.

I wasn't aware that Brewhaus had that 1" SS locknut for sale. But yes, you are correct. The element comes with a gasket. You want to make sure the locknut is welded to the keg with the groove for the gasket to the outside of the keg. Also, if your welder can do the drilling for you, great. Otherwise, the step drill bits are available from Harbor Freight for about $18.00 and you do the drilling.

A water heater tank comes with the threads already welded to the tank at the factory. We have to provide the threads for our keg. Hence, the locknut.

Well guess I was fibbing like a dog cuz just went over and looked at BH online catalouge and didnt see any locknuts at all. Now they have plenty of ferrells. Guess I will head over to McMaster and Carr. I couldnt follow either one of the links you posted. Google kept bouncing me back to this message. Anyway did go to McMaster and think I found the gizmo. Notice one is made of 304 type stainless and the other is 316 which is supposed to be more corrrosion resistant..less than a buck more. Whatcha think? http://www.mcmaster.com/#stainl...el-pipe-locknuts/=gtzuwv

They showed one version which they claimed was self sealing..for only 23 bucks each. Guess I have to learn to live without that feature.