 Rank: Junior Member Groups: Registered
Joined: 3/6/2012(UTC)
Posts: 26
|
"OK, I've finally gotten the still and now I have (2) 30L pails of sugar/tomato paste wash bubbling away.
I put the still together according to the instruction book, packed the column full of copper mesh, and loaded it with a couple gallons of water and fired up the burner. The book says to do this test run to test the seals. I put the thermo in the rubber stopper and pressed it in.
As the kettle heated up, the thermo was pegged around 85F until I turned my back for a minute and all of a sudden steam was pouring out the end of the condenser and the rubber cap was edging out of the hole. I wasn't expecting it to change states so fast. I sort of freaked out worrying about an explosion, I suppose the rubber cap will blow out first, right?
I have one of those super fancy Blichman propane burners, which boiled that gallon of water in about 4 minutes. However, I'm concerned about getting the quantity of heat down to something manageable, I don't suppose it should boil that fast and hard when doing runs, right?
Anyway, the thermo read about 205F at that point, shouldn't it have been at 212?
I pulled on the oven mitt and pulled out the rubber stopper and then killed the propane supply. Is that the correct way to shut her down?
I guess after this experience, knowing that my next run is going be to beer-strip my first wash, my questions are:
1. How fast should I attempt to boil the kettle. Is it just a factor of getting it close to boiling and then turn down the heat?
2. What point does the cap with the thermo go on? As soon as the heat is on, or some time later?
3. Since the strip run is a pot-still process, just turn the water on at the condenser, right? How much flow? Full blast? A little bit?
4. Will the still actually ""turn over"" from pre-boil to boil as instantly as it seemed to do today with the water run?"
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Guest
Groups: Guests
Joined: 2/10/2002(UTC)
Posts: 5,254
|
1. How fast should I attempt to boil the kettle. Is it just a factor of getting it close to boiling and then turn down the heat?
Pot stilling heat input is dependent on the output. Meaning you get the gizmo coughing up a pencil lead type stream and dont jack with the heat. If its running faster lower the heat..if it running slower add some heat.
2. What point does the cap with the thermo go on? As soon as the heat is on, or some time later?
Dat one goes on from the start. If you want to watch the temp gauge for fun its ok..but dont pay it much mind.
3. Since the strip run is a pot-still process, just turn the water on at the condenser, right? How much flow? Full blast? A little bit?
Yes that is the only choice you will have. The less the better in my book as concerns the water. Now you can play with it to juggle the out put if you want. Might help..lol.
4. Will the still actually "turn over" from pre-boil to boil as instantly as it seemed to do today with the water run?
Mine typically hangs at some real low temp for a long time..then Whamo it jumps to ready to rumble quicker than a minner can swim a dipper. You got you one of them remote bbq sensing gauges. Best investment you will ever make. It might set at 86 for an hour and half..and when the beeper goes off I have just enough time to go run to turn on the water and such things. Its a concentration intense hobby. I got to quit doing it while Im drunk..one of these days..lol.
Reply With Quote
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Junior Member Groups: Registered
Joined: 3/6/2012(UTC)
Posts: 26
|
That's what I was looking for...
The primary control on the pot still is the "quantity" of heat coming from the heat source, right?
Turn up the cooling water until vapor goes away and it's all dripping liquid?
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Guest
Groups: Guests
Joined: 2/10/2002(UTC)
Posts: 5,254
|
"Yes the whole operation is heat dependent. That is the only control you will have other than rate of water flow to the condenser which aint a real reliable heat control mechanism...least on my moochine..lol. Yes I think..if steam starts shooting out the top the puppy needs the heat turned down and all the water you have to the condenser. The heat needs to be regulated so it comes out the condenser as hooch as opposed to wasted going up the chimney. Just repeating whut I heard on a lot of this so take it for whats it worth..which is nothing cuz it free...lol. Originally Posted by: rasher  That's what I was looking for...
The primary control on the pot still is the ""quantity"" of heat coming from the heat source, right?
Turn up the cooling water until vapor goes away and it's all dripping liquid? "
|
|
|
|
|
|
 Rank: Senior Member Groups: Registered
Joined: 1/27/2012(UTC)
Posts: 526
|
Hi Rasher, make sure to make your cuts and toss the first 3 to 5 oz. I use 250 ml cuts,(about 1/2 a pint jar), that way you can separate your heads, hearts, and tails.
|
|
|
|
|
|
 Rank: Newbie Groups: Registered
Joined: 6/10/2012(UTC)
Posts: 1
|
" Originally Posted by: bigwheel 1. How fast should I attempt to boil the kettle. Is it just a factor of getting it close to boiling and then turn down the heat?
Pot stilling heat input is dependent on the output. Meaning you get the gizmo coughing up a pencil lead type stream and dont jack with the heat. If its running faster lower the heat..if it running slower add some heat.
2. What point does the cap with the thermo go on? As soon as the heat is on, or some time later?
Dat one goes on from the start. If you want to watch the temp gauge for fun its ok..but dont pay it much mind.
3. Since the strip run is a pot-still process, just turn the water on at the condenser, right? How much flow? Full blast? A little bit?
Yes that is the only choice you will have. The less the better in my book as concerns the water. Now you can play with it to juggle the out put if you want. Might help..lol.
4. Will the still actually ""turn over"" from pre-boil to boil as instantly as it seemed to do today with the water run?
Mine typically hangs at some real low temp for a long time..then Whamo it jumps to ready to rumble quicker than a minner can swim a dipper. You got you one of them remote bbq sensing gauges. Best investment you will ever make. It might set at 86 for an hour and half..and when the beeper goes off I have just enough time to go run to turn on the water and such things. Its a concentration intense hobby. I got to quit doing it while Im drunk..one of these days..lol.
Reply With Quote were do you get a remote bbq sensing gauges."
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Advanced Member Groups: Registered
Joined: 2/4/2012(UTC)
Posts: 303
|
And have a fire extinguisher at the ready, just in case.
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Guest
Groups: Guests
Joined: 2/10/2002(UTC)
Posts: 5,254
|
Great plan on the fire extinguisher. Hey TGF..my remote gauge is made by Maverick Industries come from Williams-Sonoma. Which is where the yups pay double and triple for stuff. Pretty sure Academy Sports has them as do any of the kitchen type stores. Cheapest place to buy one is amazon.com. Look for a Maverick ST-73 or something along that line. That is the one all the big boy bbq cooks use. It has two probes..one for the meat and one for the pit. Not sure what a hooch maker do with the extra probe. Maybe somebody could figger out a way to dunk it down in the boiler. Now that would be nice. They aint expensive about 30 bucks and some change. Notice it got some less than stellar reviews from some customers but mine has worked well for about the last ten years or so. Had many a beer spilled on it..fat boys have set on it..and it been partially cooked a few times. Keeps us posted thanks. http://www.amazon.com/Maverick-...hermometer/dp/B0000DIU49
|
|
|
|
|
|
Forum Jump
You cannot post new topics in this forum.
You cannot reply to topics in this forum.
You cannot delete your posts in this forum.
You cannot edit your posts in this forum.
You cannot create polls in this forum.
You cannot vote in polls in this forum.
