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The newly electrified bucket this morning. Put about 7 gallons hose water in it. Only fired up the bottom element. Dunked a remote gauge down in it and placed the aluminum frisbee looking deal over the top to give a little pressure to the system..duplicate a column being on top maybe. Was boiling like a big dawg within 60 mins. No leaks..no shocks..extension cord not hot. Was thinking of testing both elements but would have to unplug the AC to get to the other circuit. Did not want me and the current wash to have a heat stroke. I am thinking only one element may be plenty for them who aint real impatient on the warm up times. Anyway unplugged the bottom and plugged the top one back in the same outlet. Its heating and acting ok so far..knock on wood.
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Is that the bucket you had BH put the ports in for the elements? thinking of doing it to my 8 gal bucket
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Wow..thinking it the best thing since light bread..but I could be wrong. Dont think so. Would hearitly recommend the procedure to anybody. You only gonna need one 110 element and the router deal for the regular bucket. Do not buy the high dollar crappola that is sometimes recommended here. I am fixing to send mine back for a refund. One of the little 1500 watt elements located in the bucket is real frisky. Harbor Freight young man..and get a heat sync to go with. I knew that biotch was getting too hot. Best of fortunes. Do it..you will like it..lol.
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Rank: Senior Member Groups: Registered, Moderator Joined: 4/14/2010(UTC) Posts: 1,666
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"internal elements, oh yeah... beats the shit outof a hot plate huhh...... "
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how far from the bottom did they mount the element. and did you say you used a 4"heater ele.
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Yeppers think it will prove to beat the snot out of the hotplate. Got some good news today of predictions that the controller not be needed for refluxing. Jut leave it running wide open and combat the heat with the water. Thats how I been doing it with the hotplate and it just barely takes a little water to get it in range. Should have a bunch to battle additional heat with. The elements was the only ones at Lowes which was 120volts..least that I could find..the rest were big 220 bad boys. They seem to measure 6" or thereabouts from stem to stern and once they get threaded into the NPT fitting which poke out about an inch they stick out about 4.5" from the bucket wall. Coupla of inches from the bottom on 1..then two is about 2 inches above that. I got a coupla of pics of it but of course I am too dumb to figger out how to post them on here.
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"Here ya go Bigwheel, Pictures of yer rig. "
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Whata Guy! Thanks Doc. I owes ya..lol. Send the bill.
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Rank: Senior Member Groups: Registered, Moderator Joined: 4/14/2010(UTC) Posts: 1,666
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just a footnote on elements and placement....since they are not level with oneanother --if it takes longer to heatup than you think it should, you can always use the 220 volt elements with 120 volts. Or one long element and one short. What I'm trying to say is if they extend all the way across the boiler its fine cause they are not coming together in the middle of the boiler. (they will be one above the other) The element dosent know were not useing 220 volts they just use what you give em. I used a 220 4500 watt element in mine with no probs. Just something to keep in mind.
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"Looks great, Scotty sent me a link to weldless fitting its ]http://weldlessfittings.com/kettlefittings.html has anyone used them? they look great"
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what did you use to go between the element and the female plug ?:)
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Rank: Junior Member Groups: Registered
Joined: 1/12/2012(UTC) Posts: 34
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If I remember right he hard wired the cords to the heating ele.
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Rank: Senior Member Groups: Registered, Moderator Joined: 7/25/2009(UTC) Posts: 2,209
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" Originally Posted by: smokeymtnbill Looks great, Scotty sent me a link to weldless fitting its ]http://weldlessfittings.com/kettlefittings.html has anyone used them? they look great I BETTER SAY THIS When you are buying a still have the coupling welded by BH. The weldless fittings are not without down sides. I basicly use them for HLT or mash tiuns. You know, boyou Clasic pots that i want heat built into. I will eventually use my version of the weldless fitting when installing the second heat elemens. If i go that route. I already have 6KW 220 volts on my BH 8 gal rig. The trick is drilling the proper sized hole(( I believe the od fot 1 inch NPT is found at the link below))) and then polishing the burrs off completely with a stone to allow for a good seal http://www.engineeringtoolbox.c...taper-threads-d_750.html"
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Rank: Senior Member Groups: Registered, Moderator Joined: 7/25/2009(UTC) Posts: 2,209
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" My friend had a piece of inner tube from his motorcycle which i cut up to insulate folks from the hot wiring."
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Thanks for that info. Did not know that 220 elements be able to swing both ways like that. I could have picked out some of the long snaky looking 220 models..kick kick. Course those prob cost more. I do not like to get nagged out. I already got fifty bucks over budget as we speak:) Hope them fellas at the commie liberal place is right about no controller needed. Or else I fixing to have to go buy one of them things too. That could really get a person in twoble. Originally Posted by: heeler just a footnote on elements and placement....since they are not level with oneanother --if it takes longer to heatup than you think it should, you can always use the 220 volt elements with 120 volts. Or one long element and one short. What I'm trying to say is if they extend all the way across the boiler its fine cause they are not coming together in the middle of the boiler. (they will be one above the other) The element dosent know were not useing 220 volts they just use what you give em. I used a 220 4500 watt element in mine with no probs. Just something to keep in mind.
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"Thank you Sir. I am a real proud Papa. I was getting nervous on doing them ten gallon runs on that crazy hot plate. Now it can surely do it..found that out. Just never know when it liable to conform itself into a pancake or something..lol. Used the trusty slide rule to figger out water weighs 8 lbs a gallon and 20 lbs of sugar bound to heft it up some too. Hoping sugar water is heavier than regular water of course. Anyway..that sorta like a Fat lady sitting on Fifi the kitten perhaps. Originally Posted by: dieselduo really nice ! "
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"Tried looking that up very hard but not much ceegar. First link took me to a discussion thread about it then I got to main headquarters and it sorta like trying to shop at HD. I got lost in the shuffle. My mind is running wild here. Do it screw into a beer keg some way? Thanks. Originally Posted by: smokeymtnbill Looks great, Scotty sent me a link to weldless fitting its ]http://weldlessfittings.com/kettlefittings.html has anyone used them? they look great "
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"Hey Diesel I just followed Doc's detailed instructions..and gave it four wraps of white Teflon tape to the male threads on the element. It come with a rubber washer which fit on the extreme end of the nipple gizmo. I was always curious about how all that stuff fit together. One fella seems like on here was recommending welding lock washers on the side and drilling out the hole...then the drunk welder at the beer joint say he would weld some thick SS on the side and drill and tap it..whew. I was as cornfused as a goose in a hail storm..lol. Doc held my hand and walked me through it. I'm thinking he may get out of Purgatory a few hundred years early for being such a nice fellow to those of us with Special Needs..lol. Originally Posted by: dieselduo what did you use to go between the element and the female plug ?:) "
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Yep sure did. Being real un mechanical inclined I could not figger out whether to twist the end of the wire into circles or put it in there straight where it attaches to the little screws. To be on the safe side I did it both ways to see which works best. Good thing I found out later is a person can do it either way..whew. Now some prob could crimp little eyelets on it. Originally Posted by: smokeymtnbill If I remember right he hard wired the cords to the heating ele.
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