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Is there a certain height columns should be? or a formula to determine the correct height?
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"Corn,
In ""Making Gin & Vodka"" John Stone says, ""The rule of thumb is that the height of a column should be at least 15x its diameter...."" (emphasis added). So based on his thumb rule, if your column was 3 inches in diameter, you would want a height of at least 45 inches.
--JB"
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John does he say anything about gain if the column is longer. I have a 1 foot extension on my 3 inch ps2. I use that part to install the sensor to activate the relay that automatically switches from 220 to 110. But that extra foot is also packed with copper mesh.
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Rank: Junior Member Groups: Registered
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What type of switch are you using? That's a good idea!
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I have a K type sensor that is connected to a pid control which activates or de activates a solid state relay . The ssr is set up to de activate a mechanical relay. When power is applied to the assembly, the normally open mechanical relay is activated connecting the still 6kw element to 220 volts. When the sensor detects heat at the base of the colums it de activates the mechanical relay. In the de activated position the relay sends 120 volts to the 220 volt element whic now becomes 1500 watts. A variac reduces the voltage to control the drip rate. I want to set it up so the control mechanism turns on the cooling water at the same time 120 voltsis applied. The mechanism is in process of being remounted on a plexi glass sheet so dont laugh too much at the photo  
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" Originally Posted by: scotty  John does he say anything about gain if the column is longer. First and foremost, it's great to see you posting again, Scotty! John Stone, Making Gin & Vodka: Quote:The higher the column the better (within reason), because it provides a larger number of solid/vapour interfaces up the length of the column and therefore more re-distillations. Two and a half to three feet is convenient but you won"t wish to go much over 3 ft. or you will hit the ceiling! He doesn't give any actual numbers/equations."
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My column is 5 feet I have about 7 inches of space to hit the roof of the porch. I reall like this place because of what it was becoming. It will get there again with the help of serious posters. :)
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Originally Posted by: scotty My column is 5 feet I have about 7 inches of space to hit the roof of the porch. I reall like this place because of what it was becoming. It will get there again with the help of serious posters. :) Hi Scotty, I read on the HD forum that one of the members had added a section to his ps2hc column and also doubled the length of the condenser. He also made some other mods to remove the bung at the top and to the water control system. I think by doing this he was able to get his abv up around 94% to 95%. Is your set up similar to this? I also like that the forum is getting back on track (thanks Rick). Todd
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Soundslike you are talking about the SWEEDE. But so many of thos guys are super techs in so many areas. My rig is nothing out of theordinary. It is the brewhaus 3 inch. I replaced the tower water lines with copper tubing to have them in series. I stole tat idea from that SWAMPER CAJUN bayou ruler. I still have the bung on top. All my setup has is a couple of thermometers attached to it.
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Rank: Senior Member Groups: Registered, Moderator
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Todd I was just thinking about having doubled the length of the condenser. I am a die hard adhering to the concept of both fermenting and distilling as slow as possible
I also have cold supply water if i choose to use that instead of my closed loop radiator cooling system.
What i'm geting at is ((((What do you think made the fella make his condenser longer????)))) I dont really know possibly because he runs fast .
I know that if i want to make distilled water i cant knock down all the steam.
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Rank: Senior Member Groups: Registered
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Originally Posted by: scotty Todd I was just thinking about having doubled the length of the condenser. I am a die hard adhering to the concept of both fermenting and distilling as slow as possible
I also have cold supply water if i choose to use that instead of my closed loop radiator cooling system.
What i'm geting at is ((((What do you think made the fella make his condenser longer????)))) I dont really know possibly because he runs fast .
I know that if i want to make distilled water i cant knock down all the steam. Hi Scotty, I'm not sure what it does, but if those guys with years of experience think it is better than there is a good chance that it is. I think it is in thread titled "cm mods" or something similar. He basically found a way around the negatives of a cm type still and by doing the mods was able to increase the potential abv. I think that those on the hd forum are not real fond of the cm type of still but there are a few who stand by them. Me, I think if you can get above 88% on a regular basis then that is good. Thanks, Todd
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" Quote:Me, I think if you can get above 88% on a regular basis then that is good. Todd, this should be no problem with a PSII HC. My ""normal"" is 93% without any modifications. However, since I use electric I can insulate the top half of the boiler. I think the biggest complaint I've seen WRT CM has been people saying that they are a bit more difficult to operate. In my mind that means that it takes longer (more practice) to develop a technique that produces consistent results. That sounds reasonable to me. But keep in mind that it's easy to find holy war material everywhere -- like ""Coke or Pepsi?"" :) BTW: Which condenser are you gentlemen referring to? The column condenser or the product condenser? I haven't found any reason to increase the capacity of either -- at least not with my rig (and the way I operate it). The only thing I was going to experiment with was reducing the size of my column condenser (not connecting one of the tubes). The flow is often so small I sometimes have difficulty maintaining the collection rate."
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I really dont see the diferences in still designs other than prestige of having a home built. Im going to add something internally just for the wow factor if not to emulate the way the more complicated rigs return the condensed liquid back to the center of the packing. I never need a real accurate technical reason to keep my wheels turning.  I really dont like this design because it restricts the upward flow of gasses. So i will alternately stagger the fingers at about 1 to 1.5 inches above the previous one. in other words the entire row will always have the original un restricted amount of passage. The copper sheet is 12 inches by 8 inches and i will use copper rivetts. there will be two separate rows, each at a diferent level that have fingers long enough to rivett together for strength an allow me to drill a drain hole at the center. I just have this project on the apron. It is next after remounting my voltage switching system and making another attempt at english dark ale. I'm heading to Tampa today to drop my lady off at the airport and then to southern brewers for an all grain kit. I dont have any complaints whatsoever with my brewhaus rig. I just need to mess up things lol (( oh oh, maybe now this thread now belongs in the ho ho group
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Rank: Senior Member Groups: Registered
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Originally Posted by: John Barleycorn Todd, this should be no problem with a PSII HC. My "normal" is 93% without any modifications. However, since I use electric I can insulate the top half of the boiler.
I think the biggest complaint I've seen WRT CM has been people saying that they are a bit more difficult to operate. In my mind that means that it takes longer (more practice) to develop a technique that produces consistent results. That sounds reasonable to me. But keep in mind that it's easy to find holy war material everywhere -- like "Coke or Pepsi?" :)
BTW: Which condenser are you gentlemen referring to? The column condenser or the product condenser? I haven't found any reason to increase the capacity of either -- at least not with my rig (and the way I operate it). The only thing I was going to experiment with was reducing the size of my column condenser (not connecting one of the tubes). The flow is often so small I sometimes have difficulty maintaining the collection rate. Hi JB, I think they were talking about the product condenser. Increased the length from 1 to 2 feet (could be wrong on the size) with the idea of ensuring all vapors are knocked down. Here is the link to the hd forum thread http://homedistiller.org...pic.php?f=17&t=25732 I found it to be a good read as well as being (for me) educational. The last thing I want to do is start another "cola" war. In all the research I've done so far and in the price range for quality of product the ps2hc is the way to go. Oh JB, do you have any pics of your rig? Thanks, Todd
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Rank: Senior Member Groups: Registered
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Originally Posted by: cornsqeezins Is there a certain height columns should be? or a formula to determine the correct height? Hi corn, I have to second JB's post. I just finished reading the "making gin and vodka" book (I recommend giving it a read). The 15x1 rule is the standard. I don't think going higher will hurt. Todd
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"Todd, Mr. P's CM mods thread is indeed a great read ... and serves as a great example of someone contributing to the hobby. Whether you agree with everything or not, the ideas are put out there so people can experiment. I'm not sure what line of work you're in, but in my world we use the term ""holy war"" often enough ... and we use it in the manner that's described in Eric S. Raymond's ""Jargon File"": Quote:The characteristic that distinguishes holy wars from normal technical disputes is that in a holy war most of the participants spend their time trying to pass off personal value choices and cultural attachments as objective technical evaluations. This happens precisely because in a true holy war, the actual substantive differences between the sides are relatively minor. The final phrase is pretty much where I fall WRT the whole LM, VM, CM thing. I doubt I'd have any less fun with any of them. No pics ... but it's a vanilla PSII HC w/1500 w hotplate. The only things that aren't stock are hose clamps -- I picked up some good SS hose clamps ... the kind that are tightened with a screwdriver ... and I haven't had a leak since. Regards, --JB"
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Originally Posted by: scotty I really dont see the diferences in still designs other than prestige of having a home built. Im going to add something internally just for the wow factor if not to emulate the way the more complicated rigs return the condensed liquid back to the center of the packing. I never need a real accurate technical reason to keep my wheels turning. I really dont like this design because it restricts the upward flow of gasses. So i will alternately stagger the fingers at about 1 to 1.5 inches above the previous one. in other words the entire row will always have the original un restricted amount of passage. The copper sheet is 12 inches by 8 inches and i will use copper rivetts. there will be two separate rows, each at a diferent level that have fingers long enough to rivett together for strength an allow me to drill a drain hole at the center. I just have this project on the apron. It is next after remounting my voltage switching system and making another attempt at english dark ale. I'm heading to Tampa today to drop my lady off at the airport and then to southern brewers for an all grain kit. I dont have any complaints whatsoever with my brewhaus rig. I just need to mess up things lol (( oh oh, maybe now this thread now belongs in the ho ho group Hi Scotty, Like the idea. Is that what would be a "centering ring"? Based on your idea would something like a modified conical mesh or screen type coffee filter work? I know when i used to use the Mr coffe type machines they had metal permanant filters so you didn't have to use paper. This would not restict the vapor path and and still center the condensate in the column. Kind of they way packing works. Just a thought--let me know what you think. Thanks, Todd
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Rank: Advanced Member Groups: Registered
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" Originally Posted by: scotty I have a K type sensor that is connected to a pid control which activates or de activates a solid state relay . The ssr is set up to de activate a mechanical relay. When power is applied to the assembly, the normally open mechanical relay is activated connecting the still 6kw element to 220 volts. When the sensor detects heat at the base of the colums it de activates the mechanical relay. In the de activated position the relay sends 120 volts to the 220 volt element whic now becomes 1500 watts. A variac reduces the voltage to control the drip rate. I want to set it up so the control mechanism turns on the cooling water at the same time 120 voltsis applied. The mechanism is in process of being remounted on a plexi glass sheet so dont laugh too much at the photo Damn Scotty......you got a spaceship there!!!!!!! If you can get that SOB to transfer the wash to the boiler, you otta be able to sit back and smell the roses!!!!! lol"
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Rank: Senior Member Groups: Registered, Moderator
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"I have parts to empty and fill it without taking the column off
Stainless weldless filler port
SS ball valve
electric pump.
Automatically lol lol i dont think i can imagine how????
no pics--camera batt dead"
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Rank: Senior Member Groups: Registered, Moderator
Joined: 7/25/2009(UTC)
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Todd ill bet that your idea of a screen would do just as much, stainless of course.
It sounds so much easier too.
I really dont know if either gizmos would accomplish much.
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