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optimal spacing between condenser coils
Rank: Junior Member Groups: Registered
Joined: 1/28/2012(UTC) Posts: 33
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"I would like to hear your thoughts regarding *optimal spacing* between the coils of a 1/2 inch OD copper condensing line fitted inside a 5 gallon plastic bucket. Additionally, I would like to hear your thoughts on keeping the coil level, as well as a means of *permanently fixing the space between coils*.
To make the coil, I began with 32 feet of 1/2 OD copper line and wound it around a farm size oxygen cylinder. Obviously, if coil spacing is completely lacking or too close, heat exchange between the spiraling copper line and surrounding flake-stand-water will not be optimal. Water will heat too quickly and condensation will wane. With coils being too close, and twist-rate-of-spiraling-descent being a function of coil closeness, a deficient rate of spiraling-descent will negatively affect the condensation-discharge-rate with concomitant pressure buildup in the cooker. It would then stand to reason that separation between coils is important to allow for better or optimal heat transfer as well as establishing a reasonable downward spiral of the coil to facilitate condensation discharge thus lessening the chance of pressure increase in the cooker.
What are your thoughts on optimal spacing between coils and a means of *permanently fixing the space between coils*? What is a good way to level a coil in a flake stand?
KGB"
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Rank: Advanced Member Groups: Registered
Joined: 2/4/2012(UTC) Posts: 303
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I wound my 25ft of copper (1/2" OD) around a powder-coated tomato cage tied with zip-ties, making sure to ensure it was always flowing downward. It hasn't failed me yet.
The powder-coated reference was to make sure you don't have any corrosion issues in the flake stand like I did with galvanized.
The major heat transference occurs only in the top layer of the flake stand. The rest of the water stays relatively cool. But I was using about a 45g flake stand. YMMV.
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Rank: Senior Member Groups: Registered, Moderator Joined: 4/14/2010(UTC) Posts: 1,666
Was thanked: 15 time(s) in 15 post(s)
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"Just my .02$....as long as all the coils are going downhill and not touching they should be fine. Actually even if they touch and your water is cool enough it should still be fine."
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Rank: Advanced Member Groups: Registered
Joined: 3/1/2012(UTC) Posts: 198
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I'm with heeler on this. As long as is continuous down hill you are good. Personally i don't care for this style of condensor though. The first condensor i made was out of a 5 gallon bucket with a worm and i found it was a pain in the ass to work with so i made a graham style condensor to replace it and for me it was a much better setup.
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Rank: Junior Member Groups: Registered
Joined: 1/28/2012(UTC) Posts: 33
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"Hi guys, I appreciate your replying to my post. Though you didn't *specifically addressed* optimal distance between each coil, in a round-about-way you did addressed the coil. Still, you didn't *specifically* address:
a) optimal spacing
b) how you would permanently secure distance between each coil
c) how you would ensure the condenser is level in the flake stand
Staying on topic with the three points listed above would be appreciated.
KGB"
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Rank: Senior Member Groups: Registered
Joined: 1/27/2012(UTC) Posts: 526
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Hi KGB,
A) Spacing; Divide height of water line by number of coils = center line of coil spacing.
B) Securing Coil; Useing 2 pieces of non conductive material,(wood 1X2" or 2X2" or 1X4" or 2X4" comes to mind), cut slots into the edge on center line, on one piece make one extra slot this will be your starter slot, make cuts deep enough to hold coiled tube . Place slotted material on either side of the coil starting on one side in the top slot and the top slot other side.
C) Leveling: C takes care of it's self by following (B).
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Rank: Senior Member Groups: Registered, Moderator Joined: 4/14/2010(UTC) Posts: 1,666
Was thanked: 15 time(s) in 15 post(s)
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"KGB, this is just my opinion.....when the hillbillies did this in the woods I would bet they did'nt use any scientific formulas to make a worm. As long as it flows downhill so when it condenses the vapor back into a liquid it will flow out that should work. Not trying to be a smartass or anything but dont let it get under your skin to much, just coil it downwards and have fun. A liebig condenser does not use coils and they work great in my opinion. I did make a little coil condenser once and it worked but the water jacket or liebig condenser is better to me. I bet in the near future you will make one of them and like it better too. But for now the one you are useing will indeed work just keep your water cool and the coils going downhill and you'll be fine."
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Rank: Senior Member Groups: Registered
Joined: 1/27/2012(UTC) Posts: 526
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Hey Heeler I agree with you on the coil set up. I gave him that info cause that's what he was asking for. I also agree with you on the liebig, it's much better and a more compact way to cool things down.
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Rank: Senior Member Groups: Registered, Moderator Joined: 4/14/2010(UTC) Posts: 1,666
Was thanked: 15 time(s) in 15 post(s)
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Bushy, you are right, I did'nt read post#5 clearly enough. What you gave him is exactly what he asked for. I bet really soonish he'll get tired of that worm and get more modern. But again thats what he asked for now. Thanks for keeping me awake.
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Rank: Advanced Member Groups: Registered
Joined: 3/1/2012(UTC) Posts: 198
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The leibeg is great for a low/slow producing still. Either a graham or shotgun condensor would better if you are looking for compact/high capicity. A foot long shotgun in a 3" shell made with 1/2" pipe is equal to a 7' liebeg. My 2' x 4" graham uses 25' of 3/8 id pipe and will easily condense a gallon and a half an hour on stipping runs. I 've actually never managed to overpower it using a 2500 heating element and it uses very little water. I set it so there is literally just a trickle coming out the output.
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Rank: Senior Member Groups: Registered
Joined: 1/27/2012(UTC) Posts: 526
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Yes and an idustrial heat transfer pump works even better.
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Rank: Advanced Member Groups: Registered
Joined: 3/1/2012(UTC) Posts: 198
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Originally Posted by: Bushy Yes and an idustrial heat transfer pump works even better. Is that what you plan on running on the flute you are talking about building? Or maybe your liebeg.....
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Rank: Junior Member Groups: Registered
Joined: 1/28/2012(UTC) Posts: 33
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" Originally Posted by: heeler KGB, this is just my opinion.....when the hillbillies did this in the woods I would bet they did'nt use any scientific formulas to make a worm. As long as it flows downhill so when it condenses the vapor back into a liquid it will flow out that should work. Not trying to be a smartass or anything but dont let it get under your skin to much, just coil it downwards and have fun. A liebig condenser does not use coils and they work great in my opinion. I did make a little coil condenser once and it worked but the water jacket or liebig condenser is better to me. I bet in the near future you will make one of them and like it better too. But for now the one you are useing will indeed work just keep your water cool and the coils going downhill and you'll be fine. Hi Guys, I just got back home. I have been unable to reply to recent posts until now. I suppose a liebig might be ""just the thing"" if I had a constant water source. Water to my home comes from my well so I have to be careful regarding water usage. For the most part abundance of well-water, in the winter, is directly related to Fall rains. We had little rain this Fall and we've had little snow this year, however, we are not lacking in sub-zero double digit numbers. What little winter precipitation we've been afforded lies frozen on the surface and any chance of melt will likely come around May or June. I guess it's best that I stick with a coil and flake stand. At least with a flake stand I have little trouble cooling static water. All I need to do is bring in snow and ice and add that to my flake stand when the water begins to warm. Aside from my beloved small pot still I have a reflux still that has never been used because it requires a constant water source. It has a water jacket on the column as well as a liebig condenser at the output (approx two feet in length). I have been working on making a recirculating pump that can be used to run the column. If that works I might even attach a second pump to the liebig. I have acquired a submersible bilge pump but I need to split the out-flow in order that I prevent from burning up my pump when decreasing (adjusting) water flow to the column. KGB"
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