 Rank: Junior Member Groups: Registered
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So two more questions before I give this a go.
I didn't realize you could solder copper to stainless. Do I need a higher content of silver solder? I ordered a 2" ferrule and tri-clamp to fit the 2" copper column to the keg.
Also....what about common plumbing solder? No lead silver solder. Is this safe to use? Or should I go to a higher silver solder all around?
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 Rank: Advanced Member Groups: Registered
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Yea, I'd like to know that my self... X2
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Rank: Senior Member Groups: Registered, Moderator
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"Yes you can use plumbers solder...Lead Free!!
And yes you can solder that 2 inch ferrel to your tower. You will need to make sure that you get the fitting good and hot before you put the solder to the joint. I found out that the hard way. Also make sure you sand the connections and use flux. Recently I learned from another member that you heat the joint where you want the the solder to go. That means put your flame ahead of the spot that you touch with the solder and move the flame as you go. If you go to HD or Lowes and buy the little Map gas torch that seems to work best with the 2 inch soldering. The Map gas is a hotter burning gas and seems to work a little better, at least for me anyway since I'm not a pro.
IF you look back in the forum you can find the keg and tower that I built and at least see what the finished product will look like."
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Rank: Junior Member Groups: Registered
Joined: 12/16/2012(UTC)
Posts: 22
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Cool.
I have a map gas torch, gave it a go last night but the stainless isn't taking to the solder. I have some brazing experience but the solder seems to just drip through not taking to the stainless.
I suppose I have to get things a little hotter?
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Rank: Junior Member Groups: Registered
Joined: 12/16/2012(UTC)
Posts: 22
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This isn't working. THe fitting is too loose, have to prop at 45degrees to hold it in place, the fitting is getting red hot but the solder just drips right through. Doesn't want to stick to the
stainless.
With brazing bike frames we always used silver and it flows right in the joint with no problems brazing to stainless, chromoly, Ti. All other copper to copper fittings went just fine and clean.
On the plus side put a couple gallons of water in the keg hooked up the fitting loosely and set it on the wood stove. pushing steam through.
It's going to work.
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Rank: Junior Member Groups: Registered
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S/S to any metal requires a high temp flux (white) for it to take and a 15 t0 45% silver solder, not cheap! Gotta have a torch hot enough to get the flow and a real clean surface.
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Rank: Junior Member Groups: Registered
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" Originally Posted by: badbill2  S/S to any metal requires a high temp flux (white) for it to take and a 15 t0 45% silver solder, not cheap! Gotta have a torch hot enough to get the flow and a real clean surface. I did some inquiring yesterday. After making it all ugly and hitting it with a buffing wheel a couple times I'm going to hand it off locally. Going to cost around 40.00 to have it silver soldered."
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Rank: Senior Member Groups: Registered, Moderator
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"Hey Box, if you type in that little search window up top --Attatching A Column To a Keg-- it may shed some light on the soldering SS to copper thing??
If your interested......"
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Rank: Junior Member Groups: Registered
Joined: 12/16/2012(UTC)
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I found that post before but I didn't see anything about soldering the SS ferrule to the copper.
Looks like you used a longer ferrule. I got the short one. I'd imagine I'm not getting up to temp because I'm pretty much heating up the thickest part of the ferrule as to where yours is further up on the sleeve. Brazing bike frames we generally got the copper ferrules red hot then flow the silver and let it chase the flame around a bit, with the flange thickness it's just not getting hot enough. Baically starts flaking.
This is really just a practice pot still and something to get me running. Looks similar to HS 2" pot still but I'm running a coiled condenser. I've been meaning to do this for the last couple of years but didn't get off my ass until a friend came over with some fresh shine his old ladies dad made. I like higher dollar liquor and this was some of the sweetest and smoothest I have ever tasted. Lately I've been more into Bourbon and our liquor taxes our through the roof these days. 20.5% + 4dollar liter tax.
Next month I'll be able to put some decent money into this newfound hobby, but I think this little pot still should work just fine.
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Rank: Junior Member Groups: Registered
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Rank: Advanced Member Groups: Registered
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Hey Box, I was searching around in the net and found this Muggy Weld product, it looks like some nice stuff but kind of spendy but does a nice job, you can check out there videos... Here is the link... http://www.muggyweld.com/?view=ssq6
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Rank: Junior Member Groups: Registered
Joined: 1/2/2013(UTC)
Posts: 27
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Originally Posted by: boxholland So two more questions before I give this a go.
I didn't realize you could solder copper to stainless. Do I need a higher content of silver solder? I ordered a 2" ferrule and tri-clamp to fit the 2" copper column to the keg.
Also....what about common plumbing solder? No lead silver solder. Is this safe to use? Or should I go to a higher silver solder all around? I Just took a stainless stock pot lid and drilled a hole w/hole saw got a 3/4 femal fitting and solder it to the stainless lid no prods I made the hole a little bigger and got flux and tin'ing miex and covered it good then i almost burnt in the ten'in to the stainless and copper very well. But I spent a good 30-45 min with prep work sanded all of the copper and took grinding rock and scuffed up the stainless, then sanded it w/sandpaper, u have take your time stoop and let it cool just a little. it will look like you're not getting much done, but once i had spread a lot of solder i got the to ball up and rool it on to the stainless it has to be good and hot. it help haveing coper on bothe sides,,, good luck
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Rank: Junior Member Groups: Registered
Joined: 1/2/2013(UTC)
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here is some pictures of the lid it was the fitst time i had ever tried it [ATTACH=CONFIG]690[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]691[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]692[/ATTACH] drakkar attached the following image(s):  1-13-13%20010.JPG (51kb) downloaded 0 time(s). 1-13-13%20012.JPG (54kb) downloaded 0 time(s). 1-13-13%20013.JPG (146kb) downloaded 0 time(s).You cannot view/download attachments. Try to login or register.
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 Rank: Newbie Groups: Registered
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Harris silbright and Harris flux will allow you to soft solder copper to stainless. Don't get the stainless too hot or the solder will just ball up and run off, getting the copper hot and letting that heat transfer into the stainless is the easiest way to do it.
55% silver and the silver solder flux (white) will do it as well and requires less heat. Harris has a silver bearing solder out that has the flux already in the rod, its a very easy product to use but fairly spendy.
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Rank: Junior Member Groups: Registered
Joined: 2/22/2013(UTC)
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boxholland........I know that not everybody has access to a TIG welder but if you do the there is a tig rod that will marry ss and copper that is much stronger than soldering.............its a bronze/silicone tig rod and it will do the trick........take my word on this as I am a master welder.....hope this info helps........pc
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Rank: Junior Member Groups: Registered
Joined: 2/17/2013(UTC)
Posts: 78
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I've always used bakers fluid flux and lead free soft solder with a hand held propane torch. Fluid flux seems to handle the hotter temps.with ss to copper, I do the same as others and heat mostly the copper and let it transfer into the stainless, takes a while but all if a sudden it will flow. And yes like others say, don't put the solder anywhere near it till it's hot enough.
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Rank: Junior Member Groups: Registered
Joined: 4/6/2012(UTC)
Posts: 133
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a Tig Welder is a great thing. Most of us are not true welders, trying to weld a little bit on our stills and do not have access to one, but as I stated earlier, a little 45% silver solder and white flux will do the job with just a set of torches. I don't consider myself a Master nothing, but good enough to certify at nuclear power plants.
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