Hey Lou, and welcome.

I also have the High Capacity, and had the same problems. If you want to use your pump for both reflux and condenser, install a Y or T at a convenient point in the supply line, and then a valve to each of the above. That should give you excellent control over the head temp. Turning the pump on and off will destroy your reflux equilibrium every time. If your going to continue useing the tap for the condenser, then just instal a valve between the pump and reflux to control the volume.

Elricko posted several months ago, with this link he desighned:

http://tvbeer.com/cool1.htm

The link was heating/cooling in Feb.

Several hints I have found very useful. Add 2 cups of boiling chips- rashig rings, broken unglazed pottery, broken safety glass, washed pea gravel etc. It moderates the boil from the kaboom and the large bubbles of gas, into many small ones. Also, insulate your column, thats critical, and the top half of your boiler will speed up your boil up times. I think you have to run the hot plate full power, or you will get on- off cycling, and that will also interupt the reflux, but you will already have solved that problem with water control.

I never do a single spirit run with the wash. I do 3 or 4 stripping runs, fill my boiler, and then do the spirit run. I use propane, and now a beer keg with a reducer, so I do double batches, which really helps with the cuts and the time factor. I can strip 50L in under 4 hours, and the spirit run in about 7 catching a gallon/hour at 95%. I also have cold spring water unlimited, so no water issues. The above times are light up to end of run. Get a digital thermometer with an alarm.

Those are some of the things that I learned the hard way, but have helped me.

I set the water flow so as to have total reflux for 10 min. or so, and take off the heads very slowly, then increase flow for the hearts, then shut off the reflux water for the tails and collect fast. Also, see some of the posts in the last several months about useing bakeing soda and canning salt for a stripped run.

Best of luck, and just ask away. There are some very knowledgeable and helpful People here.

Cheers!

Lou wrote 'What do you mean when you say 'I set the water flow so as to have
total reflux for 10 min. or so'
I get it that this is lower flow than for the hearts, but about how
low? Also do you reduce the heat once the column gets to 40 or 50 deg
C as Rick suggests ,in 1 of the other newbie threads,
And if so about how much.'

I run the propane burner at high heat and usually will come to boil with 13.5 gal. in about 45 min. and yes when the temp. starts to climb, I reduce the heat quite a bit- but again, its a constant heat, to a vigerous simmer. As you mentioned, with a fast flow of water to the head, you can achieve total reflux. Then by slowing the water volume, you can begin collecting the foreshots and heads at say a drip/second. I make the cut and slow the water flow until I'm getting a nice small, but solid trickle.

When doing the stripping runs take out the packing, no reflux water, and just use the top half of your column. Goes much quicker.

Elricko,

Could the Lutron 1500W dimmer switch be connected to any hot plate type heater up to 1500W? I assume it just reduces the voltage so the hot plate would not cycle on and off.

I am about to order the Essential Extractor Pro Series II and was wondering if I should try it first without the garden splitters on the cooling system.

Actually, we have never stated specific times for distillation, because depending on what a person is distilling and the method used, the time can vary greatly. Even excluding heat up time, 1.5 hours would be extremely fast for a reflux run. I would suggest closer to 2.5-3 hours.

Lou, That is exactly what I am running for batches. Almost 3 hours to get up to temperature and another 6 to 7 hours to get through the run. I leave my temp set at high throughout the entire run and run cooling through the top of the tower. From everything I hear from these guys on this forum, patience is a virtue when doing this. So I have learned to start it early in the morning and end it late in the evening. My output is very clean and a great product.

Bob

If the runs are taking this long, you are not pushing the unit to its capacity. Try insulating the kettle to reduce the heat loss ,this will take the place of adding more heat,, and also consider bypassing the thermostat in the hotplate to keep it from cycling.

The instructions for bypassing the thermostat are at www.brewhaus.com/hotplate-adaptation.

What many people use to insulate the kettle is heat duct insulation. It has a high temperature rating, and is very effective ,an relatively inexpensive,.

Peter:

Yes the Lutron can be hooked up to a hot plate but I thought hot plates had a knob to control the heat.

SDog:

I use two elements with mine. One is a 1500W 120V and the other is a 2000W 120V that I picked up at home Depot for $8 each. I can go from bone cold to full drip in about 35 minutes. If you can't find a 2000W then a second 1500W will do the trick. When I move into my next house, NEXT THURSDAY!!!!, I plan to have a 220 installed in what my wife calls my 'special area'. Then I plan to look into those 3500W-5000W jobs.

Cheers!