Rank: Junior Member Groups: Registered
Joined: 9/18/2006(UTC) Posts: 10
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"I was wondering if anyone has any thoughts of how to put the holes in a keg for the fittings? I tried using a whole saw and it basically wouldn't touch the ss. I didn't even get one cut before the saw was ruined. I am thinking probably a regular type drill bit, but several problems with that. The size needed, I would think they would be hard to find, not to metion very expensive. Also you would have to have one heck of a drill to accept one that size. My drill is 5/8 chuck, anyone know where I can get a bit this size, the opening will have to be 1 5/8 . Any help would be apprecited. Thanks Jim"
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Rank: Junior Member Groups: Registered
Joined: 3/2/2007(UTC) Posts: 83
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"The sides of the keg will drill fairly easy with a good bimetal holesaw. The top fitting will burn up most drill bits,or holesaws.If you know someone who has a plasma cutter,and can weld stainless,That would be the way to go. A 1 5/8 inch bit would cost you an arm,and a leg. wineo"
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Rank: Newbie Groups: Registered
Joined: 6/29/2007(UTC) Posts: 2
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"On my keg conversion I left the tap collar on the top of the keg and removed all the internals as usual. Then I slid down a 1 1/2"" DWV Female Adapter that fit very snuggly into the keg opening. This allows me to use my head as a pot still or screw the column on for a reflux. The precondenser is in the head and can be utilized with either method.
Next for drilling the sides of the keg. I put in a 1/2"" pilot hole into the side right along the very bottom weld ring for the base. To widen this to 15/16 to make room for the 3/4"" drain fitting I then used step drill bit to open the hole.
I then soldered the copper fitting to this hole and then added my boiler drain valve. Also at this same level I added another hole and copper fitting and another one near the top to create a closed circuit where I attached some 1"" borosilicate ""pyrex"" glass tubing so I can view my water levels in the boiler."
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