logo                   
Welcome Guest! To enable all features please Login or Register.

Notification

Icon
Error

Login


Options
Go to last post Go to first unread
Offline cooker  
#1 Posted : Sunday, June 03, 2007 8:37:31 AM(UTC)
cooker


Rank: Junior Member

Reputation:

Groups: Registered
Joined: 9/18/2006(UTC)
Posts: 10

"I was wondering if anyone has any thoughts of how to put the holes in a keg for the fittings? I tried using a whole saw and it basically wouldn't touch the ss. I didn't even get one cut before the saw was ruined. I am thinking probably a regular type drill bit, but several problems with that. The size needed, I would think they would be hard to find, not to metion very expensive. Also you would have to have one heck of a drill to accept one that size. My drill is 5/8 chuck, anyone know where I can get a bit this size, the opening will have to be 1 5/8 .
Any help would be apprecited.
Thanks Jim"
Offline wineo  
#2 Posted : Sunday, June 03, 2007 11:53:38 AM(UTC)
wineo


Rank: Junior Member

Reputation:

Groups: Registered
Joined: 3/2/2007(UTC)
Posts: 83

"The sides of the keg will drill fairly easy with a good bimetal holesaw.
The top fitting will burn up most drill bits,or holesaws.If you know someone
who has a plasma cutter,and can weld stainless,That would be the way to go.
A 1 5/8 inch bit would cost you an arm,and a leg.
wineo"
Offline sweston  
#3 Posted : Friday, June 29, 2007 3:28:56 AM(UTC)
sweston


Rank: Newbie

Reputation:

Groups: Registered
Joined: 6/29/2007(UTC)
Posts: 2

"On my keg conversion I left the tap collar on the top of the keg and removed all the internals as usual. Then I slid down a 1 1/2"" DWV Female Adapter that fit very snuggly into the keg opening. This allows me to use my head as a pot still or screw the column on for a reflux. The precondenser is in the head and can be utilized with either method.

Next for drilling the sides of the keg. I put in a 1/2"" pilot hole into the side right along the very bottom weld ring for the base. To widen this to 15/16 to make room for the 3/4"" drain fitting I then used step drill bit to open the hole.

I then soldered the copper fitting to this hole and then added my boiler drain valve. Also at this same level I added another hole and copper fitting and another one near the top to create a closed circuit where I attached some 1"" borosilicate ""pyrex"" glass tubing so I can view my water levels in the boiler."
Users browsing this topic
Guest (3)
Forum Jump  
You cannot post new topics in this forum.
You cannot reply to topics in this forum.
You cannot delete your posts in this forum.
You cannot edit your posts in this forum.
You cannot create polls in this forum.
You cannot vote in polls in this forum.