"I got my still, and right now i am simply experimenting with water -- trying to get the temperature right. My setup is a 15 gallon milk can with 2 heating elements: 1500 wats and 2000 wats, on the opposite sides of the can, a few inches apart from each other height wise. My column is packed with copper mesh and those ceramic bits. There are no insulation wraps around anything.
What I am getting is the following:
I use both elements to to heat up the water -- temperature gets to 95-100C at which point I unplug one of the elements. I would like to get to a point where the liquid simmers using just one element so i can play with the water flow for temperature control. It seems that one element is unable to ""push up"" the steam all the way to the thermometer. Even if I was to turn off the water flow completely, the temperature falls down to 60C. It seems I have these 40C temperature swings with no prayer of some kind of control. I am wondering if I have packed the column too tight, the steam gets caught in the packing and falls back down. Any suggestions?
My questions are:
- do you mix copper mesh AND ceramic bits or do you just go with one of them?
- out of the whole length of that 4 ft column, do you pack every inch of it or do you have some ""open spaces"" between mesh chunks?
- towards the top of the column where cooling tubes are, do you pack there too or is it ""open space""?

i believe i have poured the ceramic bits further up the column, so the weight might be squishing the copper mesh below.

thank you"

"


thank you for your advice, definitely helped. The changes I have made are:
- i am putting the ceramic bits all the way on the bottom -- so now they dont squish the copper wiring
- i have insulated the pipe and the pot -- so now my garage does not feel like a sauna when that thing is cranking. the insulation on the pipe covers the pipe completely except for the 6 inches or so where all the hoses are -- there is no insulation there.

At this point, i am reaching the boiling temperature and turning off one of the heating elements -- and I am still maintaining the temperature in the area of 90C -- thank you! I am definitely making progress, not quite there yet.

So now my temperature is steady --how do I lower it? it seems my water flow makes a difference when going from 100C down to 90 -- but thats it. I have a tough time imagining how a few thin cooling tubes are going to cool the boling steam down another 10 degrees. THose tubes would have to be cryogenic cold in order for this to work. Any suggestions? Does anyone have pictures how the inside of the pipe looks like after copper packing is done? THank you for any additional suggestions, guys. Bye"

"

you had me stumped for a while -- I had to look up whats a router speed controller. I got it now. So the power cord from the heating element plugs into the router controller and the power cord from the router controller plugs into the wall, correct? so the dial on the controller controls the electical current supplied to the heating element. sorry, i am not very handy, to say the least. thanks again."

Something to think about........water will act completly different than say a wash or a mash???? How you ask...well with water you try for 212F degrees to get to boil and with a wash you try for 173F. You are trying to get to a temp so you can expirement with the condenser flow and with both elements burning its still iffy??? Well with a mash in the boiler you will use both elements for heatup and then drop one. That will work with mash cause you are only shooting for the lower temp.

"

Yep, 1500 watts is going to be a bit much for most runs without a voltage control. especially internal and iffy external if all is properly insulated. You need control of the energy being introduced. So forgive my absence while I go add 3 more charcoal briquets to my boiler. Very scientifically calculated.

The router control or other will be essential if going electric I would think. Listen to the electric guys. I am a propane cabbage eater ."

I got mine off of ebay for around $20USD if I remember correctly.It will heat up.
Just Me
Some people are like slinkies- not good for anything, But it sure is fun to push them down the stairs

Scotty, look back at going electric -- there I posted some ratings and stats of the workings of my electric still---- and even some pics. think that might answer some of your questions. And yes it plugs in to a standard 110 receptical. Hope this helps.

"There are some 120v20amp heavy duty models available on line. The standard units seem to be 120 v 15 amp for around $20 and available at Harbor Freight.

The calculation for watts is P (watts) = I (amps) x E (volts) or P= 15 x 120 which equals 1800 watts of capacity which should be enough to drive the 1500 watt hot plate without overheating. Typically we use 80% of rated nameplate as a safe loading of the equipment (router speed control). That being said, 1440 watts would be 80% use of rated power of the 15 amp model. The major thing to look for is that the device is third party listed and preferably UL. This is indicative that it has been put through its paces and meets or exceeds the rating on it.

I have been an electrician way too long,sorry for the ramble Anything larger than 1500 watt in a hot plate you should use the larger model. Propane is infinitely more adjustable and a more economical energy source but if its indoors and combustables exist in close proximity, electric, electric, electric.

Shut your lights off or the A/C as the utilitites watch for energy consumption spikes for other reasons."

"

We had been going to arkansas((lake degray)) for the past 2 years for just that sort of thing.

http://s731.photobucket.com/albums/ww312/arkansassmoker2/

The Texas boy on the right is the chuck wagon expert


Fresh biscuits every morn.



LOTSA HOME MADE STUFF_

"

"Paul built this pig twirler jus for the arkansas camp out


Waldo. an arkansas boy donned his ooofishill hilbilly outfit and brought me sme white lightnin as a gift--


its fun being a country boy--"